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Old 05-25-2013, 10:11 AM   #1
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Electrical diagram for 2007 Georgetown 319TS

Hi All,
We just bought a 2007 Georgetown 319TS used with 20,000 miles. I have looked all over for a wiring diagram as the batteries run down after a week or so. I want to see what may be drawing them down. Any help would be appreciated. I have asked the dealer if he can get them and he is "working on it."
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:09 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by RFSndrs View Post
Hi All,
We just bought a 2007 Georgetown 319TS used with 20,000 miles. I have looked all over for a wiring diagram as the batteries run down after a week or so. I want to see what may be drawing them down. Any help would be appreciated. I have asked the dealer if he can get them and he is "working on it."

Hi and welcome.
A few things come to mind about the batteries run down after a week or so as you say.

1. Are the batteries terminal clean and no acid buildup?
2. Do you have a battery disconnect?
This is used to isolate the batteries output totally.
You may not have one being the age of the unit.
3. If you don't have a disconnect you may consider for now disconnecting the positive lead of the two batteries.

The things that run off of 12 volt battery are the propane detector and it powers a solonoid located at the propane tank. You can find it as it is located after the regulator at the tank and will feel warm as it is always energized as long as you have battery power and detector has a green light.

Hope this helps you for now. I'm sure a few will jump in and show you what they have installed to disconnect the batteries while in storage.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:20 AM   #3
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All the battery terminals are clean and the batteries are new. Yes, there is a battery disconnect, but my old Southwind had one also but I never used it except for when we stored it in the winter. I had turned the propane detector off so it wasn't causing the problem. I put a Kill-A-Watt detector on the AC line and it is drawing about 100 watts so something is drawing some power.

Also, when I connect the AC power at home, I don't have a 50 amp circuit so I go through the usual 50 to 30 converter plug and then to the 30 to 20 amp converter plug. However, I still had 120 volts on both main circuit breakers in the rig. I assumed only one side would be powered. My old Southwind was a 30 amp system so I only had to use the 30 to 20 amp plug.

My dealer says Georgetown only keeps these wiring diagrams for 2 or 3 years and don't archive them. I don't understand why they don't archive them.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:17 AM   #4
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All the battery terminals are clean and the batteries are new. Yes, there is a battery disconnect, but my old Southwind had one also but I never used it except for when we stored it in the winter. I had turned the propane detector off so it wasn't causing the problem. I put a Kill-A-Watt detector on the AC line and it is drawing about 100 watts so something is drawing some power.

Also, when I connect the AC power at home, I don't have a 50 amp circuit so I go through the usual 50 to 30 converter plug and then to the 30 to 20 amp converter plug. However, I still had 120 volts on both main circuit breakers in the rig. I assumed only one side would be powered. My old Southwind was a 30 amp system so I only had to use the 30 to 20 amp plug.

My dealer says Georgetown only keeps these wiring diagrams for 2 or 3 years and don't archive them. I don't understand why they don't archive them.
Thanks for more information.
If you plug in using a 30 to 50 adapter it split the 30 amp ciruit and feeds it to both legs on the 50 amp side. Actually you have about 15 amps per leg.
Now if you leave it plugged and the small wattage you see could be the coils and controls of your transfer switch as well as your battery charger.
So now you have to figure out with the battery switch isolating the batteries is the battery charge may still be on but not hooked up tot he batteries to charge.

Now that still doesn't tell us why the batteries go bad in 10 days.
At this time I say you may have one or both batteries going bad.
You should have them load tester or if you have a multi meter charge them up and see what the voltage is on each battery. A fully charged good battery should be 13.6 volts. Then disconnect all AC power and see what the voltage is. If it immediately goes down to 12 volts or lower it may mean the batteries are starting to go bad.

That is the best I can do for now.
Good Luck
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:33 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by RFSndrs View Post
All the battery terminals are clean and the batteries are new. Yes, there is a battery disconnect, but my old Southwind had one also but I never used it except for when we stored it in the winter. I had turned the propane detector off so it wasn't causing the problem. I put a Kill-A-Watt detector on the AC line and it is drawing about 100 watts so something is drawing some power.
There are things in your RV that are going to draw battery power all the time. That's what the battery disconnect switch is for. Just use it!
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:33 AM   #6
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I have a 2005 GT XL and I found that I couldn't stop some draw down of the battery. I shut off the batty disconnect and the propane detector and a couple of weeks was the best I could do without actually pulling a battery cable.

I tried leaving it plugged into 20 amps but that eventually boiled the batteries dry because these older units don't have a 3 stage convertor.

Best solution? Spent $50 for a battery tender. Batteries are always ready to go. When we went to Fl. for 3 months, the tender was hooked up to my Chrysler T&C in the storage and it was 100% ready when we returned.

Bill
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFSndrs
Hi All,
We just bought a 2007 Georgetown 319TS used with 20,000 miles. I have looked all over for a wiring diagram as the batteries run down after a week or so. I want to see what may be drawing them down. Any help would be appreciated. I have asked the dealer if he can get them and he is "working on it."
Don't believe you'll ever get them from FR they are propriertary and many ask for them. One memer Cfsoistman, has drawn both a/c and d/c systems, nice job and easy to gollow. It's for a 07 GT 350 so should be good for you. PM him at the above address, sure he will repost for you. Forget the story of how the amish electricians memorize the runs, FR would not have built unit 1 without drawings!
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:01 PM   #8
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Hi:

Sorry, can't provide the electrical schematics (but would be interested in seeing them too if they were available). Just wanted to say congratulations on your purchase of a 319TS and hope you enjoy it! I never see anyone write much on this forum about this particular model. I don't know if that's good because that means people are happy with it and don't have any issues, or if there just weren't that many built, but we have a 2006 319TS and LOVE it.

We use the battery disconnect all the time and haven't had any problems with our batteries. You may want to re-consider getting in the habit of using that to fix your problems.

Enjoy!

Debby
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:29 AM   #9
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Thanks for more information.
If you plug in using a 30 to 50 adapter it split the 30 amp ciruit and feeds it to both legs on the 50 amp side. Actually you have about 15 amps per leg.
Now if you leave it plugged and the small wattage you see could be the coils and controls of your transfer switch as well as your battery charger.
So now you have to figure out with the battery switch isolating the batteries is the battery charge may still be on but not hooked up tot he batteries to charge.

Now that still doesn't tell us why the batteries go bad in 10 days.
At this time I say you may have one or both batteries going bad.
You should have them load tester or if you have a multi meter charge them up and see what the voltage is on each battery. A fully charged good battery should be 13.6 volts. Then disconnect all AC power and see what the voltage is. If it immediately goes down to 12 volts or lower it may mean the batteries are starting to go bad.

That is the best I can do for now.
Good Luck
Thanks for your input, Iggy. It explains why I have power on both circuits when plugged into a 20 Amp circuit. Sorry I took so long to answer, but we made a side trip to CA to see our oldest granddaughter graduate from HS.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:40 AM   #10
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Don't believe you'll ever get them from FR they are propriertary and many ask for them. One memer Cfsoistman, has drawn both a/c and d/c systems, nice job and easy to gollow. It's for a 07 GT 350 so should be good for you. PM him at the above address, sure he will repost for you. Forget the story of how the amish electricians memorize the runs, FR would not have built unit 1 without drawings!
GT370 Electrical Layout.PDF In case anyone needs it.
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