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Old 01-26-2015, 05:11 PM   #11
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Are you using the same electrical extension cord as before? Is it a home made extension cord or store bought? Could it be miss-wired?
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:16 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Krazymace View Post
I have a 20 amp for Xmas lites.


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The "circuit" may be fused for 20 amps, but unless the outlet has a "T" on one socket pin, the outlet is only rated for 15 amps.
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:17 PM   #13
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Shut off all the breakers in you mh distribution panel then try plugging in.

If it doesn't trip then turn one on at a time till it does..

Did that. As soon as I turn the main on with all other breakers off, I get a trip.


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Old 01-26-2015, 05:21 PM   #14
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The "circuit" may be fused for 20 amps, but unless the outlet has a "T" on one socket pin, the outlet is only rated for 15 amps.

Good to know.


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Old 01-26-2015, 05:34 PM   #15
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A GFCI plugged into a GFCI is unreliable.
It may work; but then again it may not.

However in your case I think you have a ground fault in your wiring somewhere and the GFCI is properly responding to it.

The only way to trouble shoot this involves opening all the breakers and removing the circuit Neutrals from the buss; leaving just the incoming Neutral and incoming (main) circuit breaker "ON"

If the GFCI still trips, the ground fault is in the wiring connections from the power center to the garage.

If it is stable, then connect ONE circuit and related Neutral at a time until you get the trip. Then troubleshoot that circuit till you find the bare copper wire (ground) that is touching the white neutral in the junction box.

Have you tested your coach for a "hot skin" condition?
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:01 PM   #16
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The fact that you say that nothing is on is pointing more toward a burned up heating element in the WH. When the element burns out, many times, it causes a ground fault. This can easily be checked. Make sure RV is disconnected from AC power. Open the outside panel on the WH, You will see two connections to the heating element. Disconnect both, ( remember which terminal they were connected to) Tape them to prevent shorting to anything. Now plug in shore power, If the GFI does not trip, the heating element was the problem It only takes 1-2 seconds of being powered to burn out the element. They are relatively simple and inexpensive to replace and can be found at big box stores.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:03 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
The fact that you say that nothing is on is pointing more toward a burned up heating element in the WH. When the element burns out, many times, it causes a ground fault. This can easily be checked. Make sure RV is disconnected from AC power. Open the outside panel on the WH, You will see two connections to the heating element. Disconnect both, ( remember which terminal they were connected to) Tape them to prevent shorting to anything. Now plug in shore power, If the GFI does not trip, the heating element was the problem It only takes 1-2 seconds of being powered to burn out the element. They are relatively simple and inexpensive to replace and can be found at big box stores.
He's still tripping breaker in the house with all breakers in the camper turned off.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:25 PM   #18
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Yes that is correct. The blown WH element causes a ground fault with everything turned off. Everything turned off still leaves the common and ground connected to everything. Some of the water heaters may have an plug in the external access area, which you can unplug . If you have a plug ( looks like normal home outlet) try unplugging it.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:41 PM   #19
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Are you using the same electrical extension cord as before? Is it a home made extension cord or store bought? Could it be miss-wired?

Quality 30 amp cord.


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Old 01-26-2015, 06:48 PM   #20
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I'm talking about the cord that plugs into the 15 amp house receptacle or do you have an adapter that goes directly from your 30 amp cord to the 15 amps receptacle?
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