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Old 12-16-2018, 07:57 PM   #1
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Entry Door Strut Bracket Locations/Types?

I bought a 2012 329DS and would like to re-install the gas strut on the entry door (the original owner removed it). Problem is, for the life of me, I can't figure out how the front strut bracket would have been installed to the door.

It looks like the door bracket was on the interior/top side, while the wall bracket is on the exterior and above the drip channel. How in the heck does an exterior bracket connect to a bracket inside the door weather stripping. Does anybody have pictures of the OEM setup? My feeble brain just can't figure out how a bracket mounted inside the door can connect to an exterior strut.

BTW, there's no indication a bracket has every been mounted outside the door.

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Old 12-16-2018, 09:26 PM   #2
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Chuckle....

I’ll try and get in position in the next couple of days (if the weather works out) and get a picture of the mounting system you’re trying to figure out.

I’ve had to adjust and protect both mounting points for this strut. The original brackets were poorly designed....and I suspect that’s why the newer Georgetown units have theirs now mounted at the bottom of the doors.

From your photo, I’ll even try to post pictures from the same reference point.
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:38 PM   #3
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Thanks Ken. I've spent hours on the internet and stores trying to figure out what bracket could be attached inside the door and have come up with nothing. Not sure how a bottom bracket would mount either with the screen door in front and minimal clearance on the bottom.
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:18 AM   #4
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Here is a couple pictures that may help. The door end is "Z" shaped with 2 screws going into the top of the door. I added 2 pop rivets thru the vertical bracket portion and thru the door for added strength (the screws kept backing out). The chassis end bracket is as shown and possibly rotated 180 deg and installed where your attaching holes are shown.
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:26 AM   #5
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As soon as I figure out a better way to deal with the door...that strut will be gone forever!

My dealership couldn't figure out how to fix it so I wound up doing it right myself.

Mine has already ripped out from the wind so many times it isn't funny, not to mention that it caused a bent awning arm.

I'm guessing the previous owner also got fed up with that setup and opted out.
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles View Post
Here is a couple pictures that may help. The door end is "Z" shaped with 2 screws going into the top of the door. I added 2 pop rivets thru the vertical bracket portion and thru the door for added strength (the screws kept backing out). The chassis end bracket is as shown and possibly rotated 180 deg and installed where your attaching holes are shown.
On the Z bracket, is it installed over the door weather stripping?

The positioning looks different from mine. On my unit, the chassis bracket was installed towards the back/left half of the door, not the front/right like yours. Hmmm.

Thanks for sending the pics. I might need to go through the dealer for a Z bracket...haven't seen any aftermarket like that.
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
As soon as I figure out a better way to deal with the door...that strut will be gone forever!

My dealership couldn't figure out how to fix it so I wound up doing it right myself.

Mine has already ripped out from the wind so many times it isn't funny, not to mention that it caused a bent awning arm.

I'm guessing the previous owner also got fed up with that setup and opted out.
Yeah. One of my worries right now (with no door strut) is that the door can swing open violently into the awning bracket with nothing stopping it. I'd rather have a broken strut than bent door or awning. If all else fails, I may end up just finding a couple places to attach a strong rubber bungee cord just to keep if from flying all the way open.
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:33 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
As soon as I figure out a better way to deal with the door...that strut will be gone forever!

My dealership couldn't figure out how to fix it so I wound up doing it right myself.

Mine has already ripped out from the wind so many times it isn't funny, not to mention that it caused a bent awning arm.

I'm guessing the previous owner also got fed up with that setup and opted out.
BTW, I see your moniker says you're located in Yuma. I was stationed at the USMC air station there about 1990-92. Loved it in the winter (not so much the summer). How do you like it? Coming from Minnesota and going into the desert, I was surprised at how good the fishing was in the Colorado River reservoir lakes north of town. Totally underrated area.
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckie View Post
On the Z bracket, is it installed over the door weather stripping?

The positioning looks different from mine. On my unit, the chassis bracket was installed towards the back/left half of the door, not the front/right like yours. Hmmm.

Thanks for sending the pics. I might need to go through the dealer for a Z bracket...haven't seen any aftermarket like that.
It's not mine. Mine is installed like your pictures. It is just to illustrate what the brackets look like. I can't remember if over the weather stripping but is not a big deal to just lift stripping at that location for just the bracket.
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Old 12-17-2018, 04:41 PM   #10
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Okay.....here’s some up close pictures of the strut brackets on my Georgetown.
You can see they’re pretty ugly after a lot of years of use. I don’t think you can order these.....they’re kinda just made up as far as I can tell.

Newer Georgetown’s have their struts mounted to the bottom of the door. It seems to be stronger, and you don’t need a ladder to work on the brackets or the strut.
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Old 12-17-2018, 04:51 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
Okay.....here’s some up close pictures of the strut brackets on my Georgetown.
You can see they’re pretty ugly after a lot of years of use. I don’t think you can order these.....they’re kinda just made up as far as I can tell.

Newer Georgetown’s have their struts mounted to the bottom of the door. It seems to be stronger, and you don’t need a ladder to work on the brackets or the strut.
Thanks for the pics! Now it makes sense. The door bracket slips under the weather stripping and it's long enough to reach past the drip channel. It looks like it's one-of-a-kind. Pretty sure I won't find that in the after market.

Funny though, at first glance, that set up doesn't look like it would stop the door from banging into the wall in a gust of wind. I might have to get creative and come up with an alternative set up. Hmmm.
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:14 PM   #12
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I have a 2014 Georgetown model 329 my brackets are mounted on the bottom inside door and sill plate. I have replaced the Strut with a higher PSI on it to better control the door.
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:37 PM   #13
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I have a 2014 Georgetown model 329 my brackets are mounted on the bottom inside door and sill plate. I have replaced the Strut with a higher PSI on it to better control the door.
Is the bottom strut mounted something like this with a raised screen door and long brush sweep? (random pic from the internet)

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Old 12-17-2018, 07:35 PM   #14
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Yes that's it. I replaced the strut with a heavy duty one. Got it on E bay. Strut I got from: Volumeline Tel # 815 553-0253.
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Chuckie View Post
Thanks for the pics! Now it makes sense. The door bracket slips under the weather stripping and it's long enough to reach past the drip channel. It looks like it's one-of-a-kind. Pretty sure I won't find that in the after market.

Funny though, at first glance, that set up doesn't look like it would stop the door from banging into the wall in a gust of wind. I might have to get creative and come up with an alternative set up. Hmmm.
Wish I could send you a picture but this is what I did to stop door from flying open in wind. Took a piece of webbing that is typically used for ratchet straps, about 1 1/2" wide, doubled up an inch and fastened one end to top of door opening about the middle, I used a washer and screw to secure. With door open take other end and fasten to center of top of door. Now when door swings open the strap (webbing ) stops it. Webbing just hangs down on inside when door is closed and if you have the cylinder that pushes the door open just loop hand through strap and hold it while opening door to prevent gust of wind from ripping door out of your grasp.


Got the idea off of forum thread, "Forest River Mods".
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:01 PM   #16
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Wish I could send you a picture but this is what I did to stop door from flying open in wind. Took a piece of webbing that is typically used for ratchet straps, about 1 1/2" wide, doubled up an inch and fastened one end to top of door opening about the middle, I used a washer and screw to secure. With door open take other end and fasten to center of top of door. Now when door swings open the strap (webbing ) stops it. Webbing just hangs down on inside when door is closed and if you have the cylinder that pushes the door open just loop hand through strap and hold it while opening door to prevent gust of wind from ripping door out of your grasp.


Got the idea off of forum thread, "Forest River Mods".
THIS is a great idea. Simple but effective. In the back of my head I was thinking about some sort of old school screen door chain but it would loud and clunky. The strap sounds like it does the same thing but would be quiet and smooth. Thanks!
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:49 AM   #17
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As a side note.......

When I was working the door yesterday to take photos, I noticed that the strut was not performing as usual.....probably because of the cold. I know the door would open slower back in October with warmer temps, but yesterday was just below freezing.

Just be aware if/when you’re testing struts in cold temps.

You may have noticed a lot of older vehicles with struts on hatchbacks and SUVs sometimes suffer from the doors being held open in colder temps. I suspect the seals don’t work as well when it’s cold.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:18 AM   #18
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As a side note.......

When I was working the door yesterday to take photos, I noticed that the strut was not performing as usual.....probably because of the cold. I know the door would open slower back in October with warmer temps, but yesterday was just below freezing.

Just be aware if/when you’re testing struts in cold temps.

You may have noticed a lot of older vehicles with struts on hatchbacks and SUVs sometimes suffer from the doors being held open in colder temps. I suspect the seals don’t work as well when it’s cold.
Yeah. The gas struts on my home storm door actually have a winter setting that I never use (but should). They react totally different when cold.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:59 AM   #19
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THIS is a great idea. Simple but effective. In the back of my head I was thinking about some sort of old school screen door chain but it would loud and clunky. The strap sounds like it does the same thing but would be quiet and smooth. Thanks!
Also great for those days when the old bones creak and groan as I can hang on to it while descending steps.
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Old 12-18-2018, 12:11 PM   #20
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From the factory both brackets were basically held in with drywall screws...which ripped out every time the wind blew.

As for the bracket on the wall above the door, I didn't want to drill holes all the way through the outside wall to the inside of the trailer (like I did on the door) so I used larger self tapping screws, which have held up so far.

Here is how I fixed the door bracket on my 5'ver...strong as can be now!
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