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Old 04-24-2012, 02:22 PM   #1
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Equinox toad battery drain

After 10 yrs of towing Hondas(CRV, Element), the DW and I decided to buy a Chevy Equinox. The owners manual says to remove a fuse to prevent battery drain. The problem with this is that it also kills the power port where I plug in the auxillary breaking system. Since I'm unable to remove the fuse, I've run the battery dead twice. My question: Does anyone else tow an Equinox, and if so, do you have this problem and what did you do about it?
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:53 PM   #2
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can you just hardwire the abs to the battery and fuse it ?
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:57 AM   #3
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What system are you using? How does the ABS work from the motorhome? Everything on my set-up runs through my brake pedal on the motorhome including the power to the lights, blinkers, brake lights. They are a seperate wiring set-up that has a plug in the front of the car and connects to the motorhome with a cable to the 7-pin outlet. I have the Brakemaster system with a compressor that activates the braking piece in my car through a small air line that connects between both vehicles. I pull 3 fuses in my Grand AM and turn the key to accessories to unlock the steering but keeps the auto-headlights from coming on and draining the battery. All accessories are turned off.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raoulwv View Post
After 10 yrs of towing Hondas(CRV, Element), the DW and I decided to buy a Chevy Equinox. The owners manual says to remove a fuse to prevent battery drain. The problem with this is that it also kills the power port where I plug in the auxillary breaking system. Since I'm unable to remove the fuse, I've run the battery dead twice. My question: Does anyone else tow an Equinox, and if so, do you have this problem and what did you do about it?

We have an Equinox as well. We use the ReadyBrake system...so no power required. But, I did run into a guy in Florida over easter who resolved your problem. He purchased a plug in 12 volt adapter for his 7to4 and ran a line through the firewall, used velcro to mount a 3-way 12v plug under the dash, and now the power comes from the coach. The 3 way adapters can be picked up at truck stops for like 20 and have 12 foot of cord. He said the whole set up cost around $40 with wiring and only took a couple hours. e-trailer sells the adapters. here....Trailer Connector Adapter, 7 Pole to 7 Pole, 5 Pole, 4 Pole and Cigarette Lighter Pilot Automotive Wiring TC-127

Heres the 12v 3 way you will need, or one similar....http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL9794-S.../dp/B000GKEZFK

Hope the links is OK?
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:18 PM   #5
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There is a 12V plug in the luggage area on the driver's side near the rear hatchback. I just spliced about 8 ft. of wire in between the plug and the box. The rear plug stays hot all the time.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:22 PM   #6
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Thanks for all your replies. I think I've found a solution to my problem. I'm ordering a device from Brake Buddy called a 'Towed vehicle battery maintainer'. It attaches directly to the toad battery and uses 12v from the MH to keep the battery charged (hopefully). It's only $25 so I thought it was worth a try. I shouldn't have to pull the fuse either.......FYI My aux braking is a Brake Buddy
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:42 AM   #7
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Another option depending on the eletrical plug you have between your coach and your toad is to use the center pin as a charging circuit. The hitch plug on my 2012 Georgetown had and 12V Auxilary Power line on the center pin of the electrical plug already wired into the main starting battery. My hitch inslaller simply ran a wire from the center pin of the toad electrical plug to the toad battery putting a diode and a 30 amp fuse inline before connecting it to the toad battery. Now as long as the toad is plugged into the RV its battery is constantly being charged by the RV. The diode makes it impossible for a short anywhere in the system to drain my toad battery. I liked this solution as I did not have to run a seperate charging circuit to the toad and I only have one electrical cable to connect. As the power was already factory supplied to the hitch electrical connector on the RV no mods were required on the RV for this solution. Cost me $95 parts and labour.
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