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Old 05-24-2011, 06:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawfive View Post
There is an old thread probably findable using "siphon" as a search term in this site. We solved this one last year using an air release valve on the water overflow line. It allows air to escape while you are filling up the tank but closes when water arrives down the overflow tube. Only warning is that you can easily overfill your water tank and bow the floor above it. Been there and done that. Answer is to watch the water filling process to ensure that you stop before too full. You can actually get more than the rated gallons stored this way to extend your dry camping time.

The advantage of the air valve is you don't have to remember to open or close anything during travel or setup. When you are pumping water out of the tank, the overflow line empties via suction from the water storage tank. The air valve allows air flow so no restriction. Only water exhaust is stopped. These valves are available at irrigation supply houses for a dollar or two and the rest of the PVC parts will set you back another couple of bucks max. You do have to watch for overfilling but that's it. Here is a picture of the valve and the PVC parts I used at the end of the overflow line. If anyone wants more detail, I'll dig it up.
I was wondering do you have to remove your set up when you winterize? Does water get into the trap from the tank and stay there?
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:02 PM   #12
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Well, mystery solved. I went around a sharp corner a month or so ago with my wife following me and she shouted over the walkie talkie that we were losing liquid from underneath. When we got home our normal 2/3 full tank was at 1/3. That means I lost 20+ gallons... Thanks for the pic, I think I will do a mod...

Bill
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Old 06-14-2011, 04:03 PM   #13
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man oh man .. better part of 6 figures,what have i gotten into .. i found out about fresh water emptying first trip, filled it an it dump itself empty on the ground .... not sure i understand fix but i'll read an look til i do, whats more upsetting is FR was told an don't want to hear about it .. thats not a good thing ...
i see the lines,right side rear, my 2012 , 378 got 3, two plugged an one screened, is there away to dump fresh water ? I guess i don't need water setting in it when not in use . thanks
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Old 06-14-2011, 04:34 PM   #14
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Water Siphon

Despite spending six figures you haven't gotten a perfect coach. But you have gotten a good one. I live in California and seldom run into frost so I haven't winterized the water system so I can't handle that question.

I always dump all the water out of my tank and the water heater before I put the rig away. It might be a month before we take it out again and I don't want stale or "green" water in there. I replaced the water line caps with valves so I could just twist them open, dump most of the water and then leave them open on the trip home so almost every drop gets rocked out of the tank. Since the drain opening isn't dead bottom of the water tank but on the side, you can't just count on gravity. Hence leaving it open as I travel. As a result I haven't had to do the bleach flush of the water system. Adding the anti-siphon and the three drain valves took about half an hour. If you aren't handy, any shop could do it for you and show you where the drains are so you can add them to your leaving and returning check lists.

I also swear by pulling the anode rod in the hot water heater to empty it out as well. I've seen my rod almost totally eaten away. When the rod is gone, then the water heater starts to get eaten. Way too easy to spend $12 on a new rod when needed. But you have to check it out to know its status. Even better is to empty the water heater saving the rod, the heater and again keeping the water supply as fresh as possible when I refill.

Hope I helped. I enjoy my rig and appreciate what Forest River delivered for the price. I would love to have a nicer unit but $300K is never going to be in the budget. If you have more questions let us know. There are some amazingly helpful folks on this site and I would like to repay their kindnesses to me with my own efforts.
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:05 PM   #15
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Dear Lawfive
Obviously we're new to forum an learning how it operates, i thank you so much for the encouragement on our 2012, 378 . we shopped an did our home work an we felt we got a good bang for the buck. You brought many items to lite as to empty tanks when parked, like you it mite sit a month before next adventure. Regarding fresh water tank siphoning, could you in some way be specific on how you fixed yours ?I am some what handy, just need direction if you could . Thanks again
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:54 PM   #16
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The simplest way to fix is find the line that vents from the top of the tank out the bottom of the compartment, then put in a shut off valve. After you fill it, close the valve so water can't siphon out. Reopen when you get to your destination or you'll pull a vacuum on your tank. Lawfive has a more elegant solution on the previous page but you have to watch out for overfilling.
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:15 PM   #17
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thanks Ron
one question to shutoff valve .. when you get to destination an reopen valve will there not be water in line an won't the siphon begin .. ? thank you
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:37 PM   #18
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Here is the link to the five pages of posts that went around the topic of siphon solutions. I posted a fix complete with pictures you will find somewhere around page 3 or 4. You can also see in the picture two water drain lines. I took off the caps and put in valves since I had a hard time getting the caps on and off easily. If your rig is like mine there is a third line by the water heater that dumps hot water lines but not the heater itself. Good luck its an easy job. ONE WARNING. If you use my solution the water tank will overfill pushing up the floor in the rig. You need to watch when you are filling the tank to stop the process before you hurt the floor. I bowed mine enough to notice when I walked on it. After I dumped some water out, it flattened back so I'm fine. I just don't want to repeat the mistake. This also shows how Forest River made a design compromise to protect the tank and the rig. They aren't so dumb are they? Here's the link:

Water Supply Siphon

If you can't click on it just cut and paste into your brower's URL line (where you type in the www........) and hit the return key. You can find all sorts of topics bly using the green search box at the top of this site. I also urge you to take the time to read all the old posts since folks have solved lots of problems you are going to bump into or could avoid by reading. I also use the Workhorse Chassis site for more mechanical stuff.
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:48 PM   #19
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Thank you very much .. great ideas ....
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harleydriven View Post
thanks Ron
one question to shutoff valve .. when you get to destination an reopen valve will there not be water in line an won't the siphon begin .. ? thank you
Not usually. If you've really overfilled it and there is a little pressure in the tank than yes. But just let it drain a little, then close, let it settle, and reopen. Or use the water for a little before opening it so you have a little vacuum in the tank.

You just have to be careful and remember to open the valve. I forgot for a day once and the tank was suctioned a little bit. As soon as I opened the valve it popped back into shape.
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