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Old 01-16-2013, 12:27 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by trell View Post
What is the torque of the attached bolt? Thanks
I think I saw something awhile back and someone said 75lbs.
But when I did it I tightened them with a breaker bar and positive they will not come loose.
If you feel you can do it I'd suggest some locktite thread fluid to make sure it will not loosen up.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:41 AM   #12
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I plan on doing the "cheap handling fix" this spring as I find my 330TS very susceptible to strong cross winds. Iggy, was it hard to do? And also, do you lift the wheels off the ground with the jacks to take pressure off of the axle?
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #13
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No! DO NOT lift the motorhome but you need to be on a level area.
I used basic rachet and socket and open end wrench. If you have a breaker bar it will help. The bolts should come out easy but I had to use a little hammer on one without damaging.
After you are done I would spray the swaybar at the two rubber bushings with silicone lube spray or equal. That's so the swaybar moves freely in the rubber bushing.

It took me about an hour to do front and back.
I used a creaper and made sure they were tight with a breaker bar and using my legs to make sure they were tight.
I also checked a few times during and after a few trips to make sure nothing was loose.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:21 PM   #14
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Glad Ford finally caught up to the ones of us that made the mod. I still have not done the rear ones yet, but there was such an improvement in handling when I did the front ones I was amazed.

The reason I did not get to the back ones was that when I went to do it I found the bolts on the torsion bars loose and missing. After that was fixed under the recall, I just never got around to it.

Thanks to Ford for making us all Legal. LOL.

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Old 01-17-2013, 03:01 PM   #15
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Thanks Iggy!
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:31 PM   #16
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I weighed my se 303 last night total weight full of gas and water storage is 15,160 lbs rear weighs 9600 front weighs 5560 GCVWR is 26,000.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:30 AM   #17
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If Ford is acknowledging this then why doesn't Ford make it right to begin with. It irks me that we are buying defective equipment. This brings me back to the old adage (Fix Or Repair Daily) for Ford.
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:05 AM   #18
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If Ford is acknowledging this then why doesn't Ford make it right to begin with. It irks me that we are buying defective equipment. This brings me back to the old adage (Fix Or Repair Daily) for Ford.
I really don't think that is the case. Any error that the Ford engineers would make is (and this is only just opinion) assuming that the owners of the F53 would prefer a soft, luxury ride vice a better handling machine. And I'm sure that there are folks that put more stock in the soft ride than in handling. Just like some folks prefer a Crown Victoria over a Mustang. I have no complaints about the Ford chassis, especially since I did the suspension mod. For a gasser I don't think it can be beat. Sure others will agree.
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:51 PM   #19
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I will also stand up for Ford. My 2011 replaced a 2003 Itasca with a Workhorse Chassis. I cannot bad mouth either one. Both performed as advertised with no major malfunctions. The new Ford (14,500 miles) with the new trans is equal in performance and durability to the Workhorse with the Allison Trans (60,000 miles). The new Ford has more horsepower and torque and climbs hills faster. Both get pretty dismal fuel mileage, 6-8 MPG. Not good for a car, but not bad for a condo. But I knew that going in.

I will give Ford credit for changing their opinion about the modification, and now are recommending it. BTW, I have not noticed any difference in the ride quality, only the huge improvement in handling.

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Old 01-19-2013, 03:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
sherman12

No! DO NOT lift the motorhome but you need to be on a level area.
I used basic rachet and socket and open end wrench. If you have a breaker bar it will help. The bolts should come out easy but I had to use a little hammer on one without damaging.
After you are done I would spray the swaybar at the two rubber bushings with silicone lube spray or equal. That's so the swaybar moves freely in the rubber bushing.

It took me about an hour to do front and back.
I used a creaper and made sure they were tight with a breaker bar and using my legs to make sure they were tight.
I also checked a few times during and after a few trips to make sure nothing was loose.
Iggy, did you use the existing links or did you replace them with longer ones? I know there was some concern over the length of the links when you make the move.
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