Found where my Jack hydraulic leak is coming from.

SoMoney · 09-01-2011, 10:26 PM

I own a 2010 Georgetown 320DS and this Video shows what I believe to be a DESIGN FLAW in this system or a bad reservoir cap. I took the breather cap apart, cleaned the sponge, and put it back together with the same result so I believe it to be the former.

Georgetown RV Leaking Hydraulic Fuid out of Jack Reservoir Cap - YouTube

As you can see in the film with the jack retract hydraulic fluid is returned to the reservoir at high speed, hits the back, and curls it way hitting the cap HEAD ON. The result is lost hydraulic fluid EVERY TIME THE JACKS RETRACT.

The Fluid level is right at the full mark when sliders are in and jacks up so I've let you deside what your seeing here...

cfsoistman · 09-02-2011, 07:09 AM

That's a good video showing the problem. Have you contacted Lippert and explained it to them? I just wonder if the treading on the cap or the tank are not properly molded. Have you tried teflon tape on the threads of the tank to see if it makes a difference? Looking at the video though the fluid most likely will come out of the top of the cap. Personally it looks like the area where the cap is should be extended up. My unit has a different looking tank. My fluid level is about an inch below the cap opening when everything is closed and levelers up. Looks like they have changed that tanks design a couple times since they built my unit.

SoMoney · 09-02-2011, 02:49 PM

Contacting Libert is a good idea as they might have an alternate cap design that allows the res to breath while retaining fluid.... I'll also inquire at my dealer if they have ever seen this in a 2010 georgetown. Teflon tape wont help me here as the fluid is exiting from the breather cap. When I take the cap apart its soaking with hydraulic fluid. In the high res version of the video you can actual see the fluid shooting backwards perfectly aligned with the cap.

cfsoistman · 09-02-2011, 07:09 PM

That's a strange design. I wonder if the full fluid level indicator should have been lower in the tank. I know everyone tries to keep costs down but a little more plastic for a neck for the cap wouldn't be that much more. I'll try to post a picture of mine this weekend. I hope Lippert has a solution that's an easy fix for you. Best to you. Have a great Labor Day weekend!

SEAYALL · 09-05-2011, 11:45 AM

great video, i have the same problem on my 2012, georgetown 378. i've looked an looked at reservoir an the manifold i don't see where its coming from , must be cap also, theres what appears to be a breather, L shaped pointing down i wondered about that, but drip continues, please post if you find something out , thaks you

SEAYALL · 10-20-2011, 09:33 AM

i got the same problem, i can watch it leak at cap when retaracting, has anyone found a solution thanks

cfsoistman · 10-20-2011, 11:18 AM

I know the instructions say that full is with all slide-outs in and levelers all retracted the fluid level should be an inch from the bottom of the cap opening. The only way the fluid would be leaking out is if the cap vent is not allowing the air to escape as the fluid is pulled back to the tank and being pressurized to leak from the cap threads. Thankfully I've never had any spill over situations but my tank always shows the same amount once I retract everything. What is the level of fluid in the tank with everything closed and retracted? Have you tried removing some fluid with an old turkey baster so the fluid level is a little lower? I know it's leaking as the fluid returns so I wonder that it may need some type of baffle to flow around the cap opening.

cfsoistman · 10-20-2011, 11:25 AM

Just wondering out loud- Maybe a Dixie cup that would fit into the cap opening but with the bottom and part of one side cut out???? The top would need to remain intact and the cap would need to be able to fit snuggly inside.

SEAYALL · 10-20-2011, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfsoistman

I know the instructions say that full is with all slide-outs in and levelers all retracted the fluid level should be an inch from the bottom of the cap opening. The only way the fluid would be leaking out is if the cap vent is not allowing the air to escape as the fluid is pulled back to the tank and being pressurized to leak from the cap threads. Thankfully I've never had any spill over situations but my tank always shows the same amount once I retract everything. What is the level of fluid in the tank with everything closed and retracted? Have you tried removing some fluid with an old turkey baster so the fluid level is a little lower? I know it's leaking as the fluid returns so I wonder that it may need some type of baffle to flow around the cap opening.

Thanks , my level is right to instructions as you say, but like you say at any rate it just must be too full, what i'm thinking now is put slides out an levers down an check to see where level is at, an adjust fluid level just alittle more than that an see what happens,actually my filler cap has a dipstick on it an gap between high an low is quite a bit, like maybe 11/2 " to 2" ... thanks for your input

SoMoney · 10-21-2011, 01:21 PM

I'm always busy w/work at the end of year so haven't had time to take her in.

1. The cap is simply in THE WRONG PLACE and getting sprayed.

DIY Theory: (BREATHER HOLE)
From the video you can see the left side of the tank close to the pump is fairly dry during decent. A "filtered" breather hole away from the hydraulic spray it would reduce the pressure on the cap allowing the displaced air to choose the path of least resistance and exit out the breather hole instead of the soaked filler cap.

SEAYALL · 10-21-2011, 03:16 PM

played with it more today, lowered the level to bottom of stick doesn't matter, still leaks, alittle less but still leaks out cap. i have my doubts if anyone going to fix this, headed for dealer in a few weeks ...

blightle · 10-22-2011, 02:32 AM

I have the same issue. Thanks for posting.

Nomore9-5 · 11-21-2011, 10:27 PM

Wanted to thank you for posting this. Have a 2011 378TS and couldn't figure out why /where fluid leaking from reservoir. After reading this and paying closer attention to area around cap noticed wet area. However I retracted and re-leveled and did not see fluid circulating when retracting. So I'm wondering if I should be concerned about fluid loss . There's no marking on the bottle to tell.

nemo45 · 11-22-2011, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomore9-5

Wanted to thank you for posting this. Have a 2011 378TS and couldn't figure out why /where fluid leaking from reservoir. After reading this and paying closer attention to area around cap noticed wet area. However I retracted and re-leveled and did not see fluid circulating when retracting. So I'm wondering if I should be concerned about fluid loss . There's no marking on the bottle to tell.

You're right there are no markings on the reservoir. I'm wondering how much oil is supposed to be in there. I am parked with my slides out and jacks down and have about an inch in the reservoir.

SEAYALL · 11-22-2011, 07:01 PM

i was at dealership few days ago an had conversation with tech,at first he said he cleaned everything off an i seen that,then he said he ran the levelers an no leak,i asked him to go out to motorhome with me, an he did. we took off battery box cover so we could see top of bottle easily.he put levers down an we watched,sure enough this time it leaked from under the cap,we took cap of an apart,all thats in there is a sponge,we dried sponge,best we figure an i agree is when coach sets sponge drys out so wwhen you use it once theres no problem sponge collects an drys out, if ffor some reason you have to retaract an level again right after first time now sponge is saturated an cap leaks, not much you can do about that but try an only level once or wait 10-15 min for sponge to dry out,its a manufacturing problem an he was going to follow up with a call to FR .. but i think its is what it is,with everything retracted an slides in fluid should be 1in. from top of bottle an thats where tech set it.hope this help some from my experinces ...

fbconsults · 11-23-2011, 12:20 AM

I have the same problem, the dealer ordered a new cap, hope that fixes the problem. I also have a leak in the rr jack.

I was under the coach while it was being serviced the other day, and found several of the blistered hydraulic hoses, one was leaking. Also found that the taillight wiring loom was not properly secured to the frame and had fallen against the exhaust heat shield, and the loom covering was melted. I don't think any of the wires are melted, but am going to point it out to the dealer and let them fix it. I used zip ties to secure it to the muffler bracket at the frame, so it won't get damaged any more.

The tech who was servicing the coach did a careful inspection under the coach, amazing what you can see when you can stand under it and look around. For the most part, he thought everything looked good. He works for a local RV dealer and is familiar with motorhomes, but this is the first Georgetown he has worked on.

Every time I look around I find something else that needs to be fixed. Almost everything is provided by another vendor, but it gets exasperating when you spend that kind of money and it spends as much time in the shop as on the road. The dealer has been good about fixing things and FR has approved all of the repairs, but it costs me $100.00 a trip in gas everytime I go in, and it has been in the shop at least ten times since I bought it in February of this year.

Just hope I can get all of the bugs worked out before the warranty expires. Funny thing, I love the coach and enjoy driving it, even with the bugs. I don't have another choice, I own it!!

Happy Trails, Forrest

fbconsults · 11-23-2011, 12:31 AM

I have the same problem, the dealer ordered a new cap, hope that takes care of the leak. I also have a jack that is leaking ordered.

I had the motorhome serviced the other day, and took the oppportunity to walk under and inspect everything. Interesting how much you can see when you can walk under it and look up.

The tech and I discovered several bulging and blistering hydraulic hoses, and one was leaking. He also found the wiring loom for the lights was not secured properly and was laying against the muffler heat shield and was melting away.

I don't think the wires are damaged, but we tied them to the muffler hangar at the frame until the dealer can inspect them.

It is exasperating when your coach spends as much time in the shop as at home, and it costs $100.00 in fuel everytime you take it in, and mine has been in the shop about ten times.

Most of the problems have been due to the parts supplied by other manufacturers, but it doesn't make you much happpier about the issues.

I still like to drive the coach and camp in it, I have to keep a positive attitude, because I own it, and have no choice. I just hope I can get everything taken care of before the warranty runs out.

Happy Trails, Forrest

fbconsults · 11-23-2011, 12:32 AM

Sorrry about the double post, I thought I lost the first one!!

Forrest

Nomore9-5 · 11-23-2011, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nemo45

You're right there are no markings on the reservoir. I'm wondering how much oil is supposed to be in there. I am parked with my slides out and jacks down and have about an inch in the reservoir.

I've got about third to half which really didn't change with jacks retracted or when I was leveled ( maybe pad was level and didn't require jacks to extend too much) . We compared levels with friend that has GT 350 and he had same amount
I'm new to this but you'd think if I can extend slides and level unit there must be sufficient fluid available to make all this happen but it would be nice to know if I need to top up and by how much

SEAYALL · 02-20-2012, 03:30 PM

much has been said, has anyone gotten a dealer or fr or manufacturer to fix it ? thanks

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