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Old 09-10-2018, 12:24 PM   #1
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Fresh water tank drain

I have a 2019 Forest River Georgetown GT536B5, just got back home from my first trip and wanted to drain the fresh water tank. Is there a plug I need to remove to drain it?
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:29 PM   #2
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Yep, should be s sticker that says low point drain. If not look under the RV and you will find 3 hoses. A red one, A blue one and a clear one. Remove the plugs from the red and blue. I can't remember which it is but one is the tank drain and the other is the pressure line drain.
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:35 PM   #3
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I have a 2019 Forest River Georgetown GT536B5, just got back home from my first trip and wanted to drain the fresh water tank. Is there a plug I need to remove to drain it?
You have low point drain(s)on the passenger side of your RV. Should have lettering that says low point. If there's a plug in it/ them remove them from the hose-s. Put the plugs back in when finished draining. That should do it. Dont mess with the overflow hose.
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Old 09-10-2018, 05:28 PM   #4
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Pittboss33 is asking how to drain his fresh water tank. Not the low point drain taps.

If possible, try to distinguish the actual hose which comes directly from the bottom of the fresh water tank. On my rig, it takes a little doing, but it’s not impossible to trace.
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:32 PM   #5
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Pittboss33 is asking how to drain his fresh water tank. Not the low point drain taps.

If possible, try to distinguish the actual hose which comes directly from the bottom of the fresh water tank. On my rig, it takes a little doing, but it’s not impossible to trace.
Not hard. With the pump off, one will be under pressure but stop draining, the other will continue to drain as the tank empties.
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:00 PM   #6
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To drain my FW tank I just open the drain valve coming out of it. If I want the entire system lines drained as in when I winterize I go to the low point CW & HW drains and open them from inside.
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:29 PM   #7
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To drain my FW tank I just open the drain valve coming out of it. If I want the entire system lines drained as in when I winterize I go to the low point CW & HW drains and open them from inside.
The low point drains will only drain the water pipes and hot water heater...

The fresh water tank will have it's own drain.

Probably under the trailer near the rear axle on the drivers side.

It should be one lone pipe hanging straight down with a valve on it.
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:34 PM   #8
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the question is: 'why' do you need to drain it?
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Old 09-11-2018, 09:31 PM   #9
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And while we are at it, can we gripe about having to crawl under the coach to undo plugs when a shut off valve in the water compartment would make life so simple. I added one but have to get someone with stronger hands than I to do the other. I can't crimp the pex rings with short crimpers and that is all there is room for on the other hose.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:45 PM   #10
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Got tired of crawling back under trailer to open valve to drain tank. Moved it to the outside just under frame. Makes it much easer when you are 77 and a few months old. Can fall down but have a hard time getting up. My Coleman camper had the drain just under the outside frame. That’s where I got the idea. I never use the line drains in the lines as I use anti freeze to winterize. This far north You would be taking a chance just draining them. Anti freeze is a whole lot cheaper than a bunch of froze lines. Don’t ask me how I know. I have been there and done that . And have the receipt for it.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:57 PM   #11
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Got tired of crawling back under trailer to open valve to drain tank. Moved it to the outside just under frame. Makes it much easer when you are 77 and a few months old. Can fall down but have a hard time getting up. My Coleman camper had the drain just under the outside frame. That’s where I got the idea. I never use the line drains in the lines as I use anti freeze to winterize. This far north You would be taking a chance just draining them. Anti freeze is a whole lot cheaper than a bunch of froze lines. Don’t ask me how I know. I have been there and done that . And have the receipt for it.
You may want to open the low point drains until you get the pink stuff coming out of there just to make sure there isn't water in them to freeze.

And don't forget about the outside shower!
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:03 PM   #12
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I run all the outlets until. They have a good stream of pink coming out. To make sure the P traps are full of anti freeze also to keep them freezing. I use 2 gal to make sure. In a Rockwood Freedom PU. Anti Freeze is cheap compared a repair job.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:06 AM   #13
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Drain pipe...

On my '16 270, the fresh water drain outlet is not on the floor of the tank, but low on the right rear side. This means that unless you tilt the coach to the right, all the water won't drain out. When I winterize mine and drain the tank, I block the left side to raise it and add water to the tank to help flush the bottom.

On a related note, the water heater collects sediment too that won't run out when the anode (drain) is removed for the same reason. Having the coach tilted right helps this as does using a pressure nozzle attached to a hose and inserted into the anode opening to flush it.

Mark
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:22 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by my10539isok View Post
On my '16 270, the fresh water drain outlet is not on the floor of the tank, but low on the right rear side. This means that unless you tilt the coach to the right, all the water won't drain out. When I winterize mine and drain the tank, I block the left side to raise it and add water to the tank to help flush the bottom.

On a related note, the water heater collects sediment too that won't run out when the anode (drain) is removed for the same reason. Having the coach tilted right helps this as does using a pressure nozzle attached to a hose and inserted into the anode opening to flush it.

Mark
Yup!

I also block up the door side of my 5'ver when flushing out the black and gray tanks after arriving home from a trip.

This helps all of the gunk flow out of those tanks.
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