Generator Issue?

Stymie71 · 06-29-2016, 05:00 PM

2017 Georgetown 364. Picked up in April. My last 2 trips, driving down the road with generator running, both roof AC units running, after about 2 hours of non-stop driving, all 120v power in the coach goes away (AC units, refrigerator, microwave, TVs, everything). Generator never stops. No breakers are blown. As soon as I stop the coach and turn of just one, either one, of the roof AC units via the thermostat, all 120v power returns like nothing ever happened.

Thoughts?

Stymie71 · 06-29-2016, 05:07 PM

Other facts:

Doesn't do it just sitting still in a field or while camping and running solely on generator, at least not yet. Have camped 72 hours running on generator without issues.

Also, does not do this while on shore power. Again, at least not yet.

AquaMan · 06-30-2016, 01:20 PM

Had/having same issue while while on our trip out west. What I've been able to deduce is that if losing power while generator is running, the transfer switch has kicked out or the breakers on the generator have kicked. I've had the generator completely stop also. This I'm thinking has to do with heat and or fuel vapor lock. It has been in the upper 90's and 100's most of the time. I have a couple people researching possible solutions. Not sure why the transfer switch won't kick back in when it kicks out though. It will if I turn generator off and back on.

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Dijoeboss · 06-30-2016, 01:54 PM

I have listed this issue in a thread "transfer switch won't stay engaged" I think is what it's called, no fix that I can find yet after battling it for 3 years.

2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

AquaMan · 06-30-2016, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dijoeboss

I have listed this issue in a thread "transfer switch won't stay engaged" I think is what it's called, no fix that I can find yet after battling it for 3 years.

2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

The issue may not be the transfer switch but the generator itself. I think that may be my issue. I think the heat is causing the generator to skip a beat and allowing the switch to fall out and for some reason, not re-engaging. I had hard time getting the generator to start again when this happened. I think the fuel line vapor locked, because I had to prime it for a couple minutes to get the fuel line to fill (it will vibrate when not completely pressurized).

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Dijoeboss · 06-30-2016, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AquaMan

The issue may not be the transfer switch but the generator itself. I think that may be my issue. I think the heat is causing the generator to skip a beat and allowing the switch to fall out and for some reason, not re-engaging. I had hard time getting the generator to start again when this happened. I think the fuel line vapor locked, because I had to prime it for a couple minutes to get the fuel line to fill (it will vibrate when not completely pressurized).

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If you come up with a fix, I'd love to hear about it, I've had no success with anything I've tried in 3 years. ( mines not the transfer switch, it's been replaced twice.) Cummins has looked at generator- no problem found, RV repair shop checked a/c amp draws etc. no problem found.

2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

AquaMan · 06-30-2016, 04:55 PM

What's the weather like when this happens? Hot? Cold? Both?

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Stymie71 · 06-30-2016, 05:55 PM

It has been blistering hot. But my generator has never died. And, only while actually driving. I sat in a field in nearly 100 heat for 3 days running on generator with no issue. Left the field on way home and at about the 2 hour mark the power went out, but the generator never quit.

cjd10 · 07-01-2016, 04:57 AM

Mine has done exactly what you describe. We also will spend a few days running the generator without issue but as soon I start driving it would happen. Only happened on hot days.
I switched from using 30W oil to Onamax 15W-40 oil. Make sure the oil level is full. Even a little bit low will cause this. On mine the oil was getting hot and sloshing around enough to cause the low oil sensor to momentarily shut down the generator and thus the transfer switch.
Since changing I have only had this happen once in the last year and that was when the oil was old and should have been changed proir to that trip.

Stymie71 · 07-01-2016, 07:28 AM

I haven't check oil level yet for sloshing. I'll check tonight. Thx.

AquaMan · 07-02-2016, 01:11 PM

Just got home from our trip and ran the generator for 24 hours without a hiccup. But the temps were below 85. The only time I had issue was when temps were above 95 and as high as 107 in WY! My buddy who has 364 also was having transfer switch problems, but his would kick back in after a couple minutes and the generator stayed running. I'm still believing that my issue is vapor lock.

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Stymie71 · 07-02-2016, 05:08 PM

I just drove 2 hours in 95+ heat. Stopped and listened outside RV when AC units quit. Generator still running. But, transfer switch makes a grinding noise every 10-15 seconds or so. And, when it does this the generator acts like a load is being turned on.

I checked oil level and it was fine. So, something is causing transfer switch to activate back and forth. And, that switch was very hot to the touch.

I am now camping on shore power without issue.

AquaMan · 07-02-2016, 07:25 PM

Low voltage will make sounds like that in the transfer switch. Noticed this on a low voltage shore power situation. Could also be heat related.

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Dijoeboss · 07-02-2016, 10:03 PM

When the transfer switch drops out, for whatever reason, vapor lock, low voltage, etc. whatever loads are on- most likely the A/C's, the transfer switch can't RE-engage due to the load, so it thumps loudly as it tries to reengage and can't, so it kicks in/out rapidly. Turn the A/C units off, the transfer switch will reengage and allow the A/C unit(s) to be restarted. This issue seems to be worse when the temps are high. I've tried jumping across the transfer switch with wires to eliminate the transfer switch, the load will kill the generator, SO that didn't work. Everything I've tried- nothing in 3 years has resolved this issue.

2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

AquaMan · 07-03-2016, 05:16 PM

Sounds as though your generator is too small for the load you are putting on it. Have your AC units checked for amp draw and possibly put on hard start capacitors and fan delays. This will help lower the amp draw.

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Stymie71 · 07-03-2016, 09:17 PM

So, a brand spanking new RV comes with either a generator or a transfer switch that will not carry the load in hot weather, which is when you need the AC units the most? Sounds off.

Has anyone ever talked with FR about this issue?

Bluepill · 07-03-2016, 09:49 PM

Hot weather creates lower-density air, which changes the air-fuel ratio of the gasoline-to-air mixture supplied to the genny's engine. This reduces the power that the engine can produce, and shows up mostly when the engine is working hard to produce its maximum power. The same thing happens as altitude goes higher. Electronic fuel injection can reduce this effect by sensing intake air temperature as well a altitude. If you have a carburator, no automatic adjustment is possible.

Bottom line is that you should try to limit the electrical load on your genny in hot weather and/or at altitudes above 5000 feet.

Tech info here:

http://www.dieselserviceandsupply.co...ut_Rating.aspx

Kevin M. · 07-04-2016, 12:17 AM

This is the sound

https://vimeo.com/173312206

copsuno · 07-04-2016, 07:16 AM

I have a six year old coach, 5.5 kW gen, it will not handle both airs at same time. I recommend you drive with one air and see what happens. Biggest voltage draws in motor home are air and microwave/convection. Just a thought.

chill960 · 07-04-2016, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluepill

Hot weather creates lower-density air, which changes the air-fuel ratio of the gasoline-to-air mixture supplied to the genny's engine. This reduces the power that the engine can produce, and shows up mostly when the engine is working hard to produce its maximum power. The same thing happens as altitude goes higher. Electronic fuel injection can reduce this effect by sensing intake air temperature as well a altitude. If you have a carburator, no automatic adjustment is possible.

Bottom line is that you should try to limit the electrical load on your genny in hot weather and/or at altitudes above 5000 feet.

Tech info here:

Factors Affecting Power Generator Output Rating | Diesel Service

That's a great point regarding Density Altitude...isn't there an adjustment on the genny that can be made for use in higher elevations? For example, Phoenix already has a DA of 3500' at 6AM and should rise another 1000' with daytime heating.

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