Generator Issue?

[Stymie71]

Yes, mine is on the driver's side as well. Just behind the engine/transmission, just in front of the exhaust pipe. Mine also hangs freely.

I wonder if the combination of the engine heat traveling under the RV along with the heat from the exhaust pipe being so close to the generator is impacting this? Maybe a heat shield on the exhaust pipe along with a cooling air scoop either below or sticking out the side to get clean unheated air from the side of the vehicle (might catch a few bugs as well ).

[NCCoachMan]

I actually saw another Ford chassis Class A with a heat shield on the exhaust pipe. Looked like the same general configuration as mine with engine exhaust pipe, rear wheel, generator. If heat is the culprit (and it's sounding like it is), shielding the exhaust pipe and possibly putting some of that silver insulation on the wheel side of the generator compartment (left side), may help. Won't change the air flow, but may reduce the heat transfer. Thoughts??

[AquaMan]

That could possibly help in your situation, but my generator is in front of the exhaust outlet. Shielding the pipe may still help, but I'm thinking most of my heat is coming from engine/radiator.


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[Stymie71]

Doesn't the exhaust pipe run behind the generator, though? Yes, agree the heat is mostly from engine/trans plus ambient, but that pipe behind the generator is not cooling things down any.

I plan to climb under mine tonight to see how close the exhaust pipe is to the generator.

FYI - I reached out to Kevin at FR. He passed my concerns to Bryan Knight at FR. Bryan kicked the can down the road to Onan. So, no help coming from FR any time soon it appears. At least, not from Kevin or Bryan.

[Dijoeboss]

Ok here's what I experienced today, started coach, started generator, let transfer switch pull in, turned on front 15K A/C unit, water heater is off, fridge was switched to propane, cycled rear 13.5k A/C unit on and transfer switch trips out, have to turn both units off and let transfer re-engage. This all happened while parked, I'm so over this generator issue already.

So I just tried it again, started rear unit first, then the front and they both are on......


2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

[AquaMan]

You either have an extraordinary high amp pull on your AC's or low output on your generator. Also sounds as if your 13.5k is the culprit. The starting amp draw is kicking out the genny. Starting the rear first and having it run then kicking in the front seems to work. What will eventually happen though is the rear will kick out while the front is running and kick back in, thus killing the system again. Experiment and see if you can duplicate.


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[Stymie71]

I'm with you Dijoeboss. And I haven't owned my unit nearly as long as you have owned yours.

I will be experimenting with mine until the end of our camping season (Thanksgiving) and then taking mine in for its first round of warranty work. Hopefully by then I have either got it resolved through air flow manipulation or can at least have the problem repeating sitting in the dealer lot so they don't think I am crazy (which really just means a good long drive but ambient temps by then will be low so not sure it will happen).

[Dijoeboss]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

You either have an extraordinary high amp pull on your AC's or low output on your generator. Also sounds as if your 13.5k is the culprit. The starting amp draw is kicking out the genny. Starting the rear first and having it run then kicking in the front seems to work. What will eventually happen though is the rear will kick out while the front is running and kick back in, thus killing the system again. Experiment and see if you can duplicate.


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Ok, both a/c units ran all night, and I have an ice maker running overnight and ran the coffee pot this morning no problem. ( both of my a/c units have the hard start capacitors added to them, they've also been checked for amp draw..... According to Rv dealer tech, the amp draw was ok. ) crazy


2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by Dijoeboss

Ok, both a/c units ran all night, and I have an ice maker running overnight and ran the coffee pot this morning no problem. ( both of my a/c units have the hard start capacitors added to them, they've also been checked for amp draw..... According to Rv dealer tech, the amp draw was ok. ) crazy


2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

That's some crazy $h!t. Have no idea.


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[Dijoeboss]

I think it's a heat issue with the transfer switch....

Anybody NOT having an issue, what type of transfer switch do you have?? Brand?? Etc.


2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

[wrapperman]

I have a Furion switch and no troubles after 3 years.
We live in Texas with over 100 degree temp.
Just finished a Galveston trip and the switch never disengaged.

[Kevin M.]

Originally Posted by Dijoeboss

I think it's a heat issue with the transfer switch....

Anybody NOT having an issue, what type of transfer switch do you have?? Brand?? Etc.

I was camping in 75-80 degree weather at 2100 feet and it happened to me once with both AC's.

Has anyone thought about the actual gauge of the wiring not being big enough?

[swamprat26]

After reading all this I would try changing my capacitors on my A/C's. The reason why I would try this is because of what I'm reading it is happening on A/C start up. Going down the road 2 hrs are the A/C's kicking in after reaching temps. Just a thought outside the box.


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[Dijoeboss]

Originally Posted by swamprat26

After reading all this I would try changing my capacitors on my A/C's. The reason why I would try this is because of what I'm reading it is happening on A/C start up. Going down the road 2 hrs are the A/C's kicking in after reaching temps. Just a thought outside the box.


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I've had hard start capacitors added to both of units for 2 years, no resolve. My transfer switch is also a Furrion, I've even replaced it, no resolve.


2013 Georgetown XL 350
Bunkhouse
2002 F250 4X4 CC
2012 Jeep Liberty

[swamprat26]

Ok. So scratch that idea. I didn't catch that.


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[swamprat26]

My transfer doesn't have a name on the panel. Not sure what it is.


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[swamprat26]

Do you ever get a breaker tripping inside of the coach when on Gen or Shore power?


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[Stymie71]

Couple of things.

First, my ACs run non-stop in this temp as they can never get the coach temp down to the set temp (typically 70-75) until nightfall. So , driving down the road I do not think the ACs are cycling on/off unless they just do that as part of their programming/build design.

Second, the breaker for my front AC does trip, but only if the unit is running and I switch from shore to generator or vice versa. No other times. I have learned to turn off both AC units when switching back and forth.

Ok, on to additional information. Yes, the exhaust pipe appears tun directly behind the generator. But, to get back to an earlier point I made and to pull in a though a couple of posts ago, my transfer switch gets so darn hot while driving that you can not touch the case. I do not know if this is due to the switch working so falling in and out, or if it is falling in and out because it is so darn hot.

I suspect the latter as everything in that storage area with the transfer switch is blistering hot. Ambient temp makes it hot. Heated air from engine and transmission flowing back to it make it even hotter. And, surprise, this storage area is just behind the rear axle and the exhaust pipe sticks out just in front of the axle, so the heated air from the exhaust is exiting right in front of this storage area.

I don't know. Just wild stabs in the dark right now as I have no way to duplicate the problem without a 2+ hour drive in the heat.

[Stymie71]

Everyone - check the last page of this post:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1262558

Seems to be a possible resolution if the problem is with the transfer switch.

Any way to bring these two threads together?

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Stymie71

Everyone - check the last page of this post:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1262558

Seems to be a possible resolution if the problem is with the transfer switch.

Any way to bring these two threads together?

Not threads but your hot switch problem most likely being caused by very badly, pitted contractor switch pads. Condition due to multiple opening/closing operations with mid to high current. Once damaged the conditions only worsen. Bad contact equals heat under load as you experience. Ideally the switch should be engaged only with minimal load both opening and closing. This applies to shore power as well. Not for sure if contacts can be changed, very unlikely they can be refaced. Eventually the box can catch fire if neglected.


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