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Old 04-02-2012, 05:45 PM   #1
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Georgetown Circuit Breaker Location for Hydraulic System

I have self leveling hydraulics and slide on my Georgetown 325 Motorhome. Main batteries are fully charged (they were flat), but when I press the button to say lower the levelers, I hear a "click" but nothing else. Does anyone know how I might solve the issue and location of the fuse(s) and/or circuit breaker that powers the hydraulics?

Help appreciated.

ps. I do have the hydraulic system manual "Dewald Leveller" and "slideOut" but they dont show anything specific to Georgetown.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:05 PM   #2
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How flat were your batteries? What was the voltage on them? It is possible that the batteries have been discharged to such a point, they can no longer deliver the current they used to. Probably if the battery got to less than 10V, it is no longer good.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:12 PM   #3
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this may sound redundant but be sure the parking brake is set and ignition off
at least thats what mine requires
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:27 PM   #4
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On my 378 the breaker is to the left of the Battery Control Center which is located in the battery Compartment under entrance steps.

Another thing are you connected to shore power ? It has been suggested that connecting to shore power or running the ten is good idea.

Gary
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:23 PM   #5
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Thanks. Which battery does the slide out and the levellers use? Is it the engine battery or the batteries that power the RV interior lights etc?
I am connected to shore power also.

I tried with the engine running and not running (ignition off)... Same for the slide out. When I press the button all I hear is a little click. No motor sound, so assuming its electrical not low fluid etc. parking brake is set and the "parking brake not set" light is off.

What does the breaker look like?


Thanks for your support thus far...
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:14 PM   #6
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If the batteries were flat they are dead.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:29 PM   #7
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Maybe you could have someone hold a voltmeter across the battery output when you push the button. The hydraulic pump for slides and jacks draws lots of 12 VDC when starting and the heaviest loads. The click sounds like the motor control is attemping to start and loses voltage immed. The volt meter tells it all. If volts stay up around 13+ and nothing happens probably motor or control problem. If it dips to 8-11 volts you have bat. trouble or both. Running the engine is best for jacks. Shore power best for slides (they won't operate with engine on).
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:25 PM   #8
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Thanks. I'll try the voltmeter. Before I do, a couple of questions...

1. Which battery do the levellers use? And does the slide out use the same one? (the main engine battery or the RV batteries)?
2. If its the RV batteries and I'm plugged into shore power shouldn't that give enough power?
3. If its the engine battery and the engine is running for the levellers shouldn't that give enough power?

Thanks for help
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:12 PM   #9
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I suggest (and not the most accurate method) that you disconnect from
shore power, turn on some lights, watch the battery gauge on the control panel, and try to operate slides. If the lights go out or very dim and battery gauge goes to "0" it would seem that the hydraulic pump is connected to the batteries but due to poor batteries or a pump motor problem the slides cannot operate.

If the lights do not go out or dim and the battery gauge indicates little change then I think I would check all connections (including ground connections) to the pump including the breaker.

The next step would be to confirm all connections by placing a DC meter on the pump
power posts, operate the slide switch and if you have power then I would suspect the pump.

By the way I know you said you hear a click, but no pump motor sounds right ?

Gary
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:20 AM   #10
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Thanks Gary, I will try that and post back what I see. From your response i'm assuming its the main rv batteries that typically power the hydraulics, not the engine battery?

Yes I just hear a click (like a relay) and no motor sounds.

Cheers,

Iain.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iainh1 View Post
Thanks. I'll try the voltmeter. Before I do, a couple of questions...

1. Which battery do the levellers use? And does the slide out use the same one? (the main engine battery or the RV batteries)?
2. If its the RV batteries and I'm plugged into shore power shouldn't that give enough power?
3. If its the engine battery and the engine is running for the levellers shouldn't that give enough power?

Thanks for help
Sorry, failed to answer all your questions. 1. Hydraulic pump and most everything in the coach works from Coach Batteries. Chassis limited to starting and small items.
With shore power connected you have only maybe 50 amps DC available. Hyd pump can draw far more, therefore large voltage drop if batteries aren't up to snuff

Engine Alt can supply the power needed but slides will not operate with engine running. I didn't get a voltmeter for anything when my coach was delivered do you?

Bad coach batteries may look charged when under the trickle for hours, the true test is when heavy load is applied they will drop quickly as the "surface charge" disappears. Hope this helps.

Vince
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:22 PM   #12
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Breaker issue

My 2012 was doing the same. Found the seal at the pump was leaking causing the pump to trip the breaker. Replaced the pump system works like normal. There wasn't much in the way of a leak really unless you are looking at the pump while someone try's to run the jacks down, tech said when he called FR they new exactly what it was because the shaft seal in the pump was to small and the pump had been redesigned with a larger seal. I did notice a little bubble of fluid when the jacks tried to lower before the breaker tripped right where the pump attaches. Just another thing you can try. Good luck
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:20 PM   #13
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Thanks for all your help. It was the battery that was the problem, not enough current as you mentioned. Replaced the batteries and now everything is working fine.

Cheers,

Iain.
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:27 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by iainh1 View Post
Thanks for all your help. It was the battery that was the problem, not enough current as you mentioned. Replaced the batteries and now everything is working fine.

Cheers,

Iain.

Great news, batts are far less costly then the Parker Hanifin pump (et al)
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:35 PM   #15
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1999 Forest River Georgetown parking brake air suspension

Anyone knows or has schematics how to to repair parking brakes for this motorhome. And, anyone knows what is the purpose of the bike valve located outside the driver's wall. Is this valve to inflate the Air bags suspension?
Please help me to find these info.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:07 PM   #16
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Anyone knows or has schematics how to to repair parking brakes for this motorhome. And, anyone knows what is the purpose of the bike valve located outside the driver's wall. Is this valve to inflate the Air bags suspension?
Please help me to find these info.
Not sure if you have Ford or Workhorse Chassis, either way they they are similar for parking brakes. They are drum brakes with shoes mounted on the driveshaft just behind the trans. I had a 2000 Workhorse that way and my current Georgetown with Ford also has a drum parking brake. Info is available from the Mfgs.

Not sure about cylinder behind firewall. Sounds like the brake system master cylinder. This unit Ford -53 Fhas power steering fluid assist, older units had vac cylinders as assist. Again check with Chassis builder, or dealer they have drwgs and parts.
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