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Old 05-11-2011, 09:05 PM   #1
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Georgetown compartment door issue with locking

I've got a new Georgetown 350TS and the driver's side rear compartment door lock doesn't catch. I can lock the door but then if I pull on it the door opens up. This wouldn't be a big deal if all the electrical gear wasn't in that compartment. Does anyone know how to adjust the door lock to work properly?

Thanks
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:23 PM   #2
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I don't have my rig right here to be handy........sounds like something I'd like to run out and see how it operates.

I'm thinking the locking mechanism on the doors is a pretty elementary design if it can be pulled open as easily as you say. I'm guessing you should compare the latch and what it locks onto on the malfunctioning compartment, with one of the other compartments that does work correctly. Maybe something just needs a fine adjustment or a little bending to correct.

How many hammers in your fine adjustment kit?

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Old 05-12-2011, 11:34 AM   #3
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I had a similar issue on the port side aft most compartment, where the generator sits. I found that the latch would stick in the open position, so that when you closed the door, it didn't catch.

I took it off the door and cleaned out the corrosion, lubed it with silicone spray and it's working fine now. I think it was a manufacturing tolerance issue, compounded by the crud that was in the latch.

Percussive maintenance (clouting it waith a big hammer) didn't help in this case.
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:08 PM   #4
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Unless they've changed anything since my unit you just need to adjust the U-Bolt that catches the locking mechanism. Loosen the outter nuts and slide it to the side towards the hinge. If the door sticks out some then you just adjust the same U-Bolt by adjusting the location of the nuts on the threads to either move the door in or out.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:54 PM   #5
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"Percussive maintenance (clouting it waith a big hammer)"

I like that...May have to steal it sometime.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:38 PM   #6
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I just got back from doing some work on my rig and looked at the design of the locking mechanism for our doors.

Now here's a big question that nobody has mentioned...........what style of doors have you got on your motorhome?

Our rig has the upgraded insulated version of doors with "bus style" latches where the key is inserted into the lock which is actually part of the handle design. The doors themselves, open sideways, and stop opening when a canvas strap draws tight........usually about 90 degrees open max. Other doors that we've seen on other motorhomes, are a lot thinner (not insulated) have a barrel style lock, and a metal finger hook tab to pull open the door, which typically opens upward and needs some kind of clip to keep it open and not hit you on the head.

Anyone else understand these different styles?
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:49 PM   #7
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I followed the advice of cfsoistman and that did the trick. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-16-2011, 07:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
I just got back from doing some work on my rig and looked at the design of the locking mechanism for our doors.

Now here's a big question that nobody has mentioned...........what style of doors have you got on your motorhome?

Our rig has the upgraded insulated version of doors with "bus style" latches where the key is inserted into the lock which is actually part of the handle design. The doors themselves, open sideways, and stop opening when a canvas strap draws tight........usually about 90 degrees open max. Other doors that we've seen on other motorhomes, are a lot thinner (not insulated) have a barrel style lock, and a metal finger hook tab to pull open the door, which typically opens upward and needs some kind of clip to keep it open and not hit you on the head.

Anyone else understand these different styles?
Our doors are the thicker insulated type with the hinges on the sides, just the door at the generator has the hinges on the top. I believe they switched to these around 2006? But I think the other type are still be available on the VE versions. I know the handles were upgraded to a rounded type versus the flat version we have. We have the pressurized lift or in this case openers that stop the door from opening too far or quickly for that matter instead of the strap.
I would caution everyone to invest in a can of Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant for those hinges. It sprays on wet but dries to a white teflon like lubricant that doesn't attract dirt. After a while the hinges tighten up from rust which eventually forms in the hinge. They dropped the ball on that design for sure.
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:25 PM   #9
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I hate those little latches, especially when the key breaks off while adjusting them with a hammer!!
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:31 PM   #10
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I hate those little latches, especially when the key breaks off while adjusting them with a hammer!!
You need to use a better quality hammer. Afterall they are precision pieces of material and need to be treated properly. 22oz claw should do the trick!!!
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