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Old 10-24-2011, 07:33 PM   #1
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Georgetown Heater

This past weekend we used the heater in our 2011 Georgetown. Friday night, no problem. Saturday night, it quit working. Not sure when. When I woke, the camper was a bit chilly. I turned the thermostat up higher expecting the furnace to come on, but it didn't. LP was full. I checked breakers and fuses. Nothing wrong. While checking the fuses, I removed the fuse for the furnace, looked at it, and put it back in. As I reinserted it, the furnace came on.
So now I'm trying to figure out why it had stopped in the first place.
Any similar history of this sort of thing?
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:55 PM   #2
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maybe a limit switch was stuck so it wouldn't restart till the power was turned off ?
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:01 PM   #3
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Thanks. I thought maybe something like that, but I don't really know much about them. Removing energy from it might allow it to reset, but I'd rather know why it shut down to begin with.
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:03 PM   #4
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yeah I would keep an eye on it ! at minimum have a dealer at least look at it .
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:31 AM   #5
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Also, when it was working, there was no air movement out of some of the floor vents.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovair View Post
Also, when it was working, there was no air movement out of some of the floor vents.
Could be something in the ductwork. This could be why it shut down as well. It may have went off on high limit. When the heat doesn't escape into the ductwork and backs up the furnace will shut down to protect it from overheating. I'm not sure with RV Furnaces but residential furnaces will shut down 3 times on limit then lockout to the off position. Once power is disconnected and the reconnect it will run again but will sequence again until the problem is located and corrected.
Some of the floor register duct openings are just a 1-1/4" Hole to the register box. This is done to balance the system based on the square footage needing heat. You would not want a full opening close to the furnace or most of the air would flow out there leaving the other areas still cold. Since there is no way to use dampers this is the easiest solution. That being said, I'd remove the registers and take a vacuum and clean out around the duct openings. It doesn't take much to restrict a small opening. A chunk of dust can block it pretty easily since it's not a high pressure system.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:56 AM   #7
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You would not want a full opening close to the furnace or most of the air would flow out there leaving the other areas still cold.
As luck would have it, the vent nearest the heater was the only one that was "closeable". Even when closed, it blew the most air of any of them and did leave the other areas cool. Just 1.5 feet away from the aforementioned vent, the vent in the bathroom blew 0 air as evidenced by my placing kleenex over it and it didn't even ripple a little.

I'll remove the vent covers and stick my vacuum hose down in there as best I can.
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:48 PM   #8
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When it doesn't work do your other gas devices work? My furnace/stove/fridge (gas) worked fine when I picked up my RV and them stopped working about a week after I picked it up. It was a little plastic ball and spring in the regulator that was sticking and shutting off all gas to the RV. I took the regulator off and ripped out the little plastic ball and spring so I could leave the next day on a trip and then got it into the dealer for replacement. Turns out the plastic ball and spring are a safety device so if the hose is cut in an accident or otherwise the fast escaping gas will push the ball into a seat in the regulator and cut off the gas. Apparently mine was defective and just normal operation would pull enough gas to push the ball into the safety off position.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:15 PM   #9
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Thanks Trempert! That's an idea worth investigating. As far as I know, everything else was still working fine. Stove lit without a fight...
But still, it may be what you suggest. I'll ask the dealer to consider that.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:11 AM   #10
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Ovair, your original post did not state if you were "dry" camping or hooked to shore power. The furnace is completely 12 volt on our 2008 GT. The control board of the furnace is voltage sensitive. If voltage dropped during the night because of house battery drain, the furnace would have stop working. I found this out the hard way. Actually, everything about RV's this day and time is voltage sensitive. When ANY appliance fails to function, check voltages first.
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