I also use mobile 1 synthetic and I do my own changes. I also buy it at walmart.
I had to use a hand held oil pump to pump the oil into the filler neck. Any other way and I probably would have made a mess. But the little pump worked great.
Georgetown 350 TS. I do my own oil changes & front end lube. Use 6 qts Motorcraft oil 5W20, Motorcraft oil filter purchased from WalMart. The MH is high enough to slide under it without jacking it up. Recommend purchasing a little hand pump from Advance Auto for $14.99, sure makes putting the oil back into the crankcase a lot easier.
Sure beats the heck out of paying my dealer $90.00 plus oil and filter for an oil change. Understand WalMart will change the oil & lube for $50.00. Airfilter is going to take some doing, cover doesn't want to lift up to access the filter.
Changing your on oil gives you a chance to look over the underside for leaks or other problems. No problems noted with my rig. My only problem is getting off the ground after changing the oil.
SnowBird9
Airfilter is going to take some doing, cover doesn't want to lift up to access the filter.
I had the same problem with the Air Filter Box. Somebody clued me in, here's the thread. Short story push back on it, pretty hard, to disengage the tabs along the back.. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ter-13298.html
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2008 Georgetown SE 350DS BunkHouse
I had the same problem with the Air Filter Box. Somebody clued me in, here's the thread. Short story push back on it, pretty hard, to disengage the tabs along the back.. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ter-13298.html
I found all at WallyWorld
Air Filter, Oil Filter and Motorcraft oil in gallons.
Unlike a lot of folks posting here I take my New Under Warrenty 2011 378 TS with the v-10 to the Ford dealer for oil changes and services. The cost for an oil change and full lube of all the zert fittings was $55.10. That service is documented in the Ford system so warrenty issues are not a problem. Besides, for that price I can't justify buying the oil and filter, doing the service then finding a place to dispose of the oil, then climbing around under the rig with a grease gun hoping I got all the fitting lubed correctly. It is financial break even and not worth the hassel.
If I can afford the 378 and 6 to 7 miles per gallon I can darned sure afford the service. You folks doing it yourself sure aren't saving much.
I used to do my own service on our previous desiel rig until I found I could hire it done cheaper than my cost for oil, filter, etc. I have better things to do that try and be a mechanic at this point in my life.
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JimF, CWO, US Army Ret, 100% DAV
2011 Georgetown 378TS
2008 Dodge Caliber Toad
Unlike a lot of folks posting here I take my New Under Warrenty 2011 378 TS with the v-10 to the Ford dealer for oil changes and services. The cost for an oil change and full lube of all the zert fittings was $55.10. That service is documented in the Ford system so warrenty issues are not a problem. Besides, for that price I can't justify buying the oil and filter, doing the service then finding a place to dispose of the oil, then climbing around under the rig with a grease gun hoping I got all the fitting lubed correctly. It is financial break even and not worth the hassel.
If I can afford the 378 and 6 to 7 miles per gallon I can darned sure afford the service. You folks doing it yourself sure aren't saving much.
I used to do my own service on our previous desiel rig until I found I could hire it done cheaper than my cost for oil, filter, etc. I have better things to do that try and be a mechanic at this point in my life.
Suggest following maintance instructions in the ford manual you received with your RV. If you are a DIYer use the Ford suggested blend and motorcraft oil filiters. When you do a grease job don't forget the ninth grease fitting on the steering box. Up front and hard to see. While under your unit eyeball the underside for anything unusual. My problem is getting the air filter cover off.
Suggest following maintance instructions in the ford manual you received with your RV. If you are a DIYer use the Ford suggested blend and motorcraft oil filiters. When you do a grease job don't forget the ninth grease fitting on the steering box. Up front and hard to see. While under your unit eyeball the underside for anything unusual. My problem is getting the air filter cover off.
Thanks
I was told to get the airbox cover off you have to push it towards the rear and I think it will unhook in the front. I haven't tried it but I have read some where the procedure.
Anyone out there can verify removing the air filter cover for the V10?
Suggest following maintance instructions in the ford manual you received with your RV. If you are a DIYer use the Ford suggested blend and motorcraft oil filiters. When you do a grease job don't forget the ninth grease fitting on the steering box. Up front and hard to see. While under your unit eyeball the underside for anything unusual. My problem is getting the air filter cover off.
And if there is a fitting on the rear drive shaft, make sure it gets a couple of squirts. If no fitting, would drop it and put some good lithium grease on the splines so you don't get a clunking noise later.
And if there is a fitting on the rear drive shaft, make sure it gets a couple of squirts. If no fitting, would drop it and put some good lithium grease on the splines so you don't get a clunking noise later.
What spline? Universals joints? Please clarify for us non-technical guys.
I have also added a few Ford F-53 chassis docs you may find interesting
Concerning lubricating the chassis's zerk fittings (thank you Iggy for the 'service points' images), what type of grease should I use? I noticed the reference to XG-1-C, can I use this on all my chassis's zerk fittings?
Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Ford gives you the part numbers to all the service parts and fluids. It is so easy to procure these parts from local sources. Walmart has the Motorcraft semi synthetic 5w-20w oil and FL820S filter. Walmart also has a Penzoil brand transfer pump for $7.98 that has extra long plastic hoses for reaching the ever so restricted area oil fill tube. ALL OIL FILTERS ARE NOT THE SAME. Flow check valves, microns, one and two stages, temperature check valves are all part of todays oil filter designs. The worst thing you can do to an engine is install a generic oil filter. Before a manufacturer warranties a motorhome engine you can bet for sure they will want to know what oil filter is on it and they will do an oil analysis. I can never understand why some owners experiment in this area when the manufacturer is telling us exactly how, when, and what to do and use to properly service their product.
Additionally I self service my vehicles so I can look over the unit for leaks and possible defects. I have been a diesel mechanic for 40 years.
Completed my oil change today using the Penzoil pump from walmart. The pump made it simple, the filter was easy to get to, and my oil pan fit nicely to catch the oil. Much easier than my Acura and Honda. Funny thing is, the tiny size of the filter that I removed ("Service Champ") that CP put on for my last oil change made me have to double check the FL-820 part number of the Motocraft filter I picked up.
Yes they are small. I have done a few oil changes on mine and have removed the drain plug and installed a Fomoto valve. I also use a 3ft section of tube to drain it into a bucket.
Here is the link to the website for the quick valve assembly. http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f106n-valve.html
Watch the video explains it clearly what it does.
Here is a picture of the valve I installed in my V10. Much cleaner and easier next oil change
Linear Mode
