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05-17-2010, 10:12 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
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GT378 Main Door Closer
The bracket which hold the closer to the main door is pulling loose. See attached pics. Anyone have any suggestions?
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05-17-2010, 10:27 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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Best I can tell from your pictures, the sheet metal crews have stripped out. Most likely drilled too large a hole to start with. Best recommendation is something I call a "Thread Cert". It is a pop rivet with machine screw threads in the middle. Takes a special tool, that screws in to the pop rivet, squeezes, then is unscrewed. Now you have a hole with a set of threads for a machine screw. I've seen the kits at Harbor freight for around $20 or so, with different size inserts. This would make the best and easiest fix. Check this thread:
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piec...-kit-1210.html
__________________
LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT
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05-18-2010, 08:17 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 322
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It should be a warranty issue for you but I doubt they would do it like windrider suggests which I believe is the correct way to fix it.
__________________
Ron Hanson
2009 Georgetown 350TS (bunks)
400W solar, 440AH 6V GC2
2009 Ford Edge AWD Ltd towed
2011 Honda Fit Sport towed
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05-18-2010, 12:12 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Pilot Mountain NC
Posts: 558
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You can try screwdriver installed rivet nuts. you can find them at McMastercar. McMaster-Carr
just scroll down the page until you see the screwdriver installed rivet nuts
__________________
2013 Prime Time 230 FBS
Days camped in 2013: April to November
Days camped in 2014...about 40
Days camped in 2015...more than 2014!!
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05-19-2010, 06:28 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
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Thanks for the ideas, however, I have an idea for a new bracket for the door, once I have it made and installed Ill post pics. Think this is one of those items Id rather do myself so I know it is done right. Thanks to for the input.
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05-24-2010, 02:38 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: LEXINGTON SC
Posts: 37
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I have the same exact problem, but not as severe. My 357qs is a 2011 and only been used twice. I went ahead and popped off the absorber. I will let my dealer deal with it under warranty. But I got funny feeling this issue will be around for the life of the RV. I may re-design the bracket also, but will wait too see what Forest River does first
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05-24-2010, 08:08 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Dahlgren VA
Posts: 317
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Your setup is slightly different than is on our 2008 378 Georgetown. But ours did the same thing. I used the same holes but installed larger and longer lag screws in the holes above the door (thats where ours is attached). So far they have held.
__________________
Ken and Velda
Dahlgren, VA.
2008 Georgetown XL 378
2010 Ford Escape Limited
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06-11-2010, 10:06 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Seal Beach, Ca.
Posts: 171
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same problem
I have a similar problem on my 2007 Forest River Georgetown 378. I think this is a poor design since so many people are having this problem. I can remember a few times the door blew open and probably caused this door problem. I have seen other RVs that use regular hinges. I think I am going to try install larger lag screws and if that doesn't work, call a technician.
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06-11-2010, 10:21 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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I haven't noticed this yet but when we get our rig back from the repair shop I will have to take a look. I have used the Nutserts that were mentioned by others but they do have a flange that will keep the bracket from laying flush against the door top. I would be inclined to just try using pop rivets.
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06-11-2010, 11:58 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
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Well, I finally got my part for a new door bracket for the door closure. Hopefully if it stops raining this weekend here in Vancouver, WA, maybe I can actually get it installed. I will post final pics after the install, but here is the bracket. I plan to run 3 1/4" bolts all the way through the door.
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06-12-2010, 06:58 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: LEXINGTON SC
Posts: 37
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Did you make that bracket?
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06-12-2010, 11:28 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
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No, I found a metal shop here in Vancouver, gave them the old one so they would have the correct bends and distances for the top over the door and a drawing of what I wanted. Cost me a donation to their coffee fund of $5.
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06-22-2010, 07:09 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
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Finally finished the install of the door closure bracket I have made. Seems to be working well, but time will tell. Pics attached.
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06-22-2010, 09:09 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Looks like it should do the job quite well but If it were me I would have chosen something like button head bolts and put the heads on the outside for a better appearance. I think the door will rot away and fall apart though long before your fix fails.
I checked ours the other day after reading this post and so far after 2 years of use no sign of it pulling loose. Fingers crossed.
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06-23-2010, 05:16 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: LEXINGTON SC
Posts: 37
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great job mine is next
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06-23-2010, 08:31 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SW of NE Arkansas
Posts: 116
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Now this is the kind of posts that I really like about this forum. My wife thinks I am smart cause I know what to do to fix this kind of thing. Please don't tell her I am reading this forum.
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