Originally Posted by chrisbailey13
As I mentioned, I have never had an issue. Plus, in my case, My Refrigerator runs on Propane when not plugged in, so I can't shut off the Propane when going down the road.
A few bridges and ?all? tunnels prohibit use of propane while using them. My 2011 Georgetown 327DS has a 2-way fridge so I was faced with the same problem when travelling. I solved it by installing a 1K inverter set up to power only the fridge. The Xantrex inverter I purchased included a transfer switch so I used the original power line for the fridge as its shore power feed. The inverter has a remotable front panel which I mounted just below the sink where it's easily seen while siting at the dining table. My propane system has a shutoff solenoid at the tank controlled by the propane/CO detector. I added, next to the detector, a shutoff switch to the solenoid so I can turn the propane on and off from inside the RV.
The inverter is used when driving or making short stops for shopping. While driving, the 175A alternator provides more than enough power for the inverter to run the ~300W (26Amps @ 12V) electric heater in the fridge.
If you're not carrying passengers, a floor to ceiling curtain mounted just behind the front seats will keep the front section where you're sitting warm. I also discovered that when stopped for the night, it's critical to set the front ventilation system to "max air (condition)" to close the front vent. If you don't do this, there's a cold draft entering the RV from the recirculation intake vent in the passenger foot well.
If it was really cold and I need additional heat in the coach when driving, an alternative would be to run the generator and use an electric heater. The only caution here is to use one that can't tip over or has a tip shutoff switch. Many many years ago I had some squirrel cage fan, thermostat control, electric heaters that were 6"x10"x2" and couldn't tip over. They would have been perfect for the RV but they only lasted around 10 years or so.