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Old 04-11-2015, 11:07 PM   #1
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Hellwig Sway Bar Install

Ordered the Hellwig 7216 and 7217 kits for front and rear sway bars from SD Truck Springs for $863.00, this included and additional $40.00 off deal. It took 2 hours to do the front bar replacement. The rear bar is in addition to the OE sway bar. The hardest part was the frame brackets and getting clearance with the leaf springs in the way. Ended up using the MH jack system to unload the suspension a bit to gain access. Took us 4 hours to do the rear. Getting the new longer shackles bolts (8 of them) torqued to 300 ft-lbs was entertaining.

Big improvement in stability... no more wobbly box. Easy 2 finger driving down the road. Glad I did it.
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:41 PM   #2
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Today was windy, so I intentionally took it out on the highway to get crosswind gusts and see how it handles this. Previously, I got pushed around and had to do a lot of steering correction, i.e. a lot of work load.

Now, super stable.... very, very little steering input needed. Truly a 2 finger steer down a straight road. Very happy! BTW, I'm leaving the factory Bilstein shocks on... no reason to change those out.

I'll update on this more, on longer trips, as I've only put about 75 miles on it since the new sway bars were installed.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:07 AM   #3
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I have thought about applying one of the changes to the handling but have yet to do so -- not even the CHF. My RV seems to drive and track relatively well but I definitely notice other traffic.

I am going to do the CHF next time I have the RV home just because it is cheap and relatively easy. We will see what happens after that.

Who knows, I may follow in your shoes and go all out like you did.
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:49 PM   #4
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It is definitely a big improvement for the (bad)roads and (windy)conditions, up where I live.

The front sway bar replacement, is fairly easy. Adding the additional rear sway bar is a major job, because of the frame bracket location and access interference with the leaf springs and the 8 nuts that have to be torqued to 300ft-lbs on the 4 U-bolt shackles. I had to use a 4x torque multiplier to get to the torque value. But at least now I know it's done right.
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:45 PM   #5
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I suspect the new front sway bar is the key. I spent almost $2,000 having a rear trac bar and front steering stabilizer installed. Moved the OEM sway bar to the aft position, and it caused a loud "thunk" sound when I turned a corner. Had my wheels aligned at FR's expense. Wheel alignment place said they had already seen 2 or 3 Georgetowns that make the same noise with the bolt in the aft position. He said the only solution is to move the sway bar bolt back to the front position. After all of this, I estimate the improvement at 40%, which is far from what I expected especially in light of your positive results. Base on what you said, I might try a new sway bar. what type/brand did you install? (Feel free to comment on my other remedies, i.e. trac bar and steering stabilizer.)
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Old 04-14-2015, 04:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette View Post
I suspect the new front sway bar is the key. I spent almost $2,000 having a rear trac bar and front steering stabilizer installed. Moved the OEM sway bar to the aft position, and it caused a loud "thunk" sound when I turned a corner. Had my wheels aligned at FR's expense. Wheel alignment place said they had already seen 2 or 3 Georgetowns that make the same noise with the bolt in the aft position. He said the only solution is to move the sway bar bolt back to the front position. After all of this, I estimate the improvement at 40%, which is far from what I expected especially in light of your positive results. Base on what you said, I might try a new sway bar. what type/brand did you install? (Feel free to comment on my other remedies, i.e. trac bar and steering stabilizer.)
Hellwig front is #7217 and the rear is #7216. You need to be sure your GT F53 chassis has the large Dana Spicer differential with the welded rear cover. Otherwise the rear kit is a different model number.

In my opinion, both sway bars together is what is needed. Like I mentioned earlier, the front one is fairly easy to do. The rear one (the one I think makes most of the difference), is in addition to the factory rear sway bar and is the more difficult to install. For DIY'ers like me, it was a 2 person job and you need the tools, 4x torque multiplier and air impact gun to do it.

The Hellwig sway bar diameters are 1-3/4", OE looks to be 1-5/8". The original Ford brackets and links are mere toys, when compared to the robust Hellwig hardware.
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Old 04-14-2015, 05:28 PM   #7
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Checksix, I'm taking a trip to TX from OH this Saturday and will have a better opportunity to evaluate the need for more work. This will be my first experience with a toad (2010 Jeep Liberty) which I am towing with a 2015 Georgetown. Upon return, I'll dig into it further as needed. Thank you for the info.
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:52 PM   #8
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FYI. I have a 2014 gt 328. I called ford parts(corp), just to see if they had anything in the way of anti-sway bars. Of course they only had original eq. but the person told me that the front and rear sway bars are adjustable. I have added the hellwig anti-sway bar to the rear and adjusted the front bar to the 2nd position. I have only driven a few miles on the highway since the change but it made a big difference.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:18 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by gunn1976 View Post
FYI. I have a 2014 gt 328. I called ford parts(corp), just to see if they had anything in the way of anti-sway bars. Of course they only had original eq. but the person told me that the front and rear sway bars are adjustable. I have added the hellwig anti-sway bar to the rear and adjusted the front bar to the 2nd position. I have only driven a few miles on the highway since the change but it made a big difference.
gunn,
You should put the Hellwig front bar on. It makes the Ford OE front sway bar look like a toy and it's a LOT easier than the rear sway bar to install.
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:25 AM   #10
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i used the front and rear roadmaster bars, and they also made a huge difference. i suspect they are very similar to the hell wigs. front is a replacement, rear is a supplement to stock. 1 3/4" vs the stock 1 5/8" in the rear...that extra 1/8" does make a big difference.....

the other thing i did was install jounce replacement sumo springs. posted it in another thread here. they took it up to another level again...very well worth the money....if you want to make it even better, do it....
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