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Old 08-13-2015, 10:43 PM   #21
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I don't use an additional level. The light in center turns green when level in manual mode.


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Old 08-13-2015, 11:41 PM   #22
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I don't use an additional level. The light in center turns green when level in manual mode.


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Gotta have a level somewhere so you know which button to push. Otherwise you're guessing.


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Old 08-14-2015, 06:30 AM   #23
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Light only comes on in Auto mode. If you are using manual, you have to place a level someplace on your floor or counter. If you over do it, you can't retract a little. You have to retract all the way and start over. I use Auto all the time. Never had an issue.


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My 2012 does not have a green light when level. I use a 3'level to double check. Also I can make small adjustments up or down for each jack without starting all over. From reading posts on here the newer leveling controls are different. Mine are very easy to use manually. And the auto method always raises the coach higher than necessary. Those of you with a newer coach have a different set of controls which may do a better job of leveling in auto mode. But I can level my coach manually in just a few minutes without all the humping and bumping that goes on in auto.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:58 AM   #24
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Gotta have a level somewhere so you know which button to push. Otherwise you're guessing.


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I go by the arrow light indicators that's on the control pad that tell you the direction that you are out of level. Yours don't have those arrow lights?
Arrow lights are adjacent to each button.


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Old 08-19-2015, 09:26 PM   #25
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I have become so irritated with the LCI panel, I only use the manual mode. The auto function calibration is horrible (my opinion). The manual function with a bubble level works fine. Get use to resetting that flag, it trips a lot,as does the 15a fuse inside the Box inside the battery compartment
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:27 AM   #26
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You can recalibrate the level - it's in the LCI manual and very, very easy.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:51 AM   #27
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level

well went to leave campground yesterday and the jacks wouldnt go back up... i tried every thing...call service and tried a few things they told me didnt work. But what i did was screw up lol i popped my fuses to be off and not on...i had them in wrong position..re set them and the jacks worked again whewwwww im getting better each time at this lol
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:41 AM   #28
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The service tech tried a few things before checking the fuses first!?!!? Lol... Run from that "tech" as fast as you can.
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:17 PM   #29
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The service tech tried a few things before checking the fuses first!?!!? Lol... Run from that "tech" as fast as you can.
I think you totally misread the post. Read it again.
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:33 PM   #30
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Okay.. I've sparked quite a discussion here..

Next question - Does anyone us blocks (i.e. leveling blocks - Lynx) under the jacks before leveling your Coach. I'm thinking this will minimize the leveling jacks travel along with less wiggle when set up. Or will this cause the Coach to lift higher off the ground?

I've also wonder if it's safe to first level your Coach (Front to Back) by driving on blocks of wood before setting the level jacks. Especially if your on a site with a little slope.
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:35 PM   #31
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I have used them. Some campgrounds require them to help protect their pavement. Otherwise, I don't use them.


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Old 08-24-2015, 07:47 PM   #32
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Okay.. I've sparked quite a discussion here..

Next question - Does anyone us blocks (i.e. leveling blocks - Lynx) under the jacks before leveling your Coach. I'm thinking this will minimize the leveling jacks travel along with less wiggle when set up. Or will this cause the Coach to lift higher off the ground?

I've also wonder if it's safe to first level your Coach (Front to Back) by driving on blocks of wood before setting the level jacks. Especially if your on a site with a little slope.

That would go against my principles and why I bought a class A. Pull in and push a few buttons nothing more. Maybe have enough energy to plug into shore power before going to bed. Water and sewer in the morning after I've had a good rest. But take it real slow.....maybe pace myself with a couple hours between water, sewer and getting my chair out from the underneath storage.

Then mozy on down to the cafe to get a bite to eat. Maybe rent a golf cart if it's more than a few steps away. You get the idea - don't worry, be happy!


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Old 08-24-2015, 07:51 PM   #33
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stuck

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That would go against my principles and why I bought a class A. Pull in and push a few buttons nothing more. Maybe have enough energy to plug into shore power before going to bed. Water and sewer in the morning after I've had a good rest. But take it real slow.....maybe pace myself with a couple hours between water, sewer and getting my chair out from the underneath storage.

Then mozy on down to the cafe to get a bite to eat. Maybe rent a golf cart if it's more than a few steps away. You get the idea - don't worry, be happy!


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You My Man are my kinda camper...dont worry be happy! LOL
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:32 AM   #34
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Leveling

I have used blocks and not used them doesn't seem to matter much. But if I'm on a incline I place some of the plastic blocks under the side that has the most travel, just so I don't over extend the jacks then I level manually so easy. When you pull into your camp spot look at the panel the light will be green on the side that needs to come up. Just push that button little at a time until center level light is lit.
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:29 PM   #35
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if our wheels are going to be off the ground when we level, we usually use the lynx blocks to help keep them on a surface.

probably only needed 1 of 5 trips, but depends on the levelness of the site. If we are only going to be there one night I usually live with it being a bit unlevel vs wheels up.

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Old 08-25-2015, 07:03 PM   #36
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I have used blocks and not used them doesn't seem to matter much. But if I'm on a incline I place some of the plastic blocks under the side that has the most travel, just so I don't over extend the jacks then I level manually so easy. When you pull into your camp spot look at the panel the light will be green on the side that needs to come up. Just push that button little at a time until center level light is lit.

That won't work on my 335. Indicator lights only work on Auto.


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Old 08-25-2015, 07:24 PM   #37
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if our wheels are going to be off the ground when we level, we usually use the lynx blocks to help keep them on a surface.

probably only needed 1 of 5 trips, but depends on the levelness of the site. If we are only going to be there one night I usually live with it being a bit unlevel vs wheels up.

Garren
Agree.. Our maiden voyage the site was deceiving. The rear jacks over extended and blue the circuit breaker. Our Class C I would run either the rear or front tires on precut boards I made bringing her close to level front to back. Then I'd put Lynx Blocks under the jacks to minimize the distance the jacks extend. Can both of these be done on a Class A without causing issues?

Yes, to some it seems like a lot of work, but I don't want to be reseting my circuit breaking on a regular basis.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:45 AM   #38
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My in line fuse pops EVERY time I use auto level on my XL377. Manual is much better I agree.


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