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Old 05-22-2016, 01:45 PM   #1
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Help with unhooking toad

I posted this in the towing section too.

So we are new to toading. We are towing a Honda Acoord behind our Georgetown MH. No drop hitch, just with the factory hitch. Hooking up is easy, however, twice now we have to be absolutely level side to side otherwise we can't unhook the toad. Had to leave our site to find a level surface. Doesnt seem to be a problem if it's unlevel front and back, but even if it's just a bit uneven side to side, the arms won't budge. Is there a fix for this? Try a drop hitch or just deal with it?
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:54 PM   #2
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What kind of tow bar are you using? Many have levers on each arm of the bar that you can pull to relieve the pressure and unhook easily on unlevel surfaces.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:56 PM   #3
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Hm...didn't know that. It's all Roadmaster.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:58 PM   #4
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Sorry, it's the Falcon All Terrain tow bar. It's supposed to be for unlevel surfaces.
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:02 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Lvnlife1973 View Post
Sorry, it's the Falcon All Terrain tow bar. It's supposed to be for unlevel surfaces.
That one should have the levers on the top of each arm. Here's a link to the owner's manual if you don't have it. http://roadmasterinc.com/pdf/85-2481-20.pdf

The 1973 in your name, it that the year you were born? If so, you're the same age as me
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:46 PM   #6
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When you are on level ground measure from the top of the MH hitch to the ground then do the same on the tow bar on the car. If its more then 3 inches you need a drop receiver. I have the same set up on our 377xl and needed a 2 in drop to tow a 2015 ford explorer.
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Old 05-22-2016, 03:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Keisling View Post
That one should have the levers on the top of each arm. Here's a link to the owner's manual if you don't have it. http://roadmasterinc.com/pdf/85-2481-20.pdf

The 1973 in your name, it that the year you were born? If so, you're the same age as me
Thanks! I didn't know what the levers were for. I thought it was for retracting the arms! Yes, born in 1973!! 😉😉
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Old 05-22-2016, 03:29 PM   #8
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When you are on level ground measure from the top of the MH hitch to the ground then do the same on the tow bar on the car. If its more then 3 inches you need a drop receiver. I have the same set up on our 377xl and needed a 2 in drop to tow a 2015 ford explorer.
Thank you!!
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:57 AM   #9
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Try turning the wheels of the tv from side to side then unhook!
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:30 AM   #10
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Try turning the wheels of the tv from side to side then unhook!
Thanks!!!! Will have to try that. No problem at all on a smooth paved road but the two times we couldn't unhook was at a gravel site that I didn't think was so unlevel and also at our storage place for the MH....it was a bit sloppish left to right so I thought that was the problem. Hooks up beautifully.
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:31 AM   #11
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Thank you!!
So if the distance is more than 3 inches you go with a drop hitch for every inch it's off from 3 inch difference?
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:01 PM   #12
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From my experience, the more the drop from the coach to the toad attach points, the more the toad will tug and push on the MH. The more level, the more better (sic)! It's a 'sine()' curve relationship in geometry meaning that when perfectly level, the toad has no front/back influence for up/down motion. As the angle goes up, so does the influence (and the 'sine()'). But, NEVER have the toad attach point above the MH or the toad could jump up in a hard stop. Also note that the lower the drop on the MH, the easier it is to drag on in incline.

Having experimented a lot with three different toads and two different MHs over 17 years, I now have a nice collection of 2", 4", and 6" drop hitches. Currently using 0".
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:57 PM   #13
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From my experience, the more the drop from the coach to the toad attach points, the more the toad will tug and push on the MH. The more level, the more better (sic)! It's a 'sine()' curve relationship in geometry meaning that when perfectly level, the toad has no front/back influence for up/down motion. As the angle goes up, so does the influence (and the 'sine()'). But, NEVER have the toad attach point above the MH or the toad could jump up in a hard stop. Also note that the lower the drop on the MH, the easier it is to drag on in incline.

Having experimented a lot with three different toads and two different MHs over 17 years, I now have a nice collection of 2", 4", and 6" drop hitches. Currently using 0".
Thanks, I'll measure and see if there is a need for a drop hitch. Would love to be able to unhook at a pull through site, that's why we got the All Terrain. I keep thinking I'm doing something wrong. MH is in park with brake on, car has parking brake on, wish it would just unhook! 😉
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Old 05-23-2016, 05:23 PM   #14
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The amount of drop in your tow bar wont matter if you're stopped where it's not level.
Not level = 1,2,3,4,5, 6" of drop or the toad could be higher than the hitch.

We have the same tow bar as you.
Have used the levers many times, they'll be fairly hard to release.
Don't be surprised when your toad moves.
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:39 PM   #15
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There is a big factor that hasn't yet been mentioned: If your transmission is still unlocked, whether or not you're on an incline, your toad is very likely to be putting significant pressure on the retaining pins and/or locking handles. The same may be true if you have relocked the tranny. I carry a hammer and center punch to knock out the pins on those difficult situations where the handles won't unlock and the pins can't be retracted.
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:56 PM   #16
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Exactly; if you cant get the bars to release easily with the levers, you may be on a side to side bind. Putting the toad in gear, and moving slightly forward usually eases this bind. You may have to move the toad a few inches slightly to the left or right, depending on the bind, but it will normally clear the bind. Sometimes you have to disconnect one arm at a time, and experiment.

Seldom is it a problem with height, but side-to-side binding.

I have used the hammer and pien method (in the past), but recommend the gentler method of slightly moving the toad to release strain.

Works for me, but.........
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:06 PM   #17
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It should be easy, you're just doing it wrong.

First release the parking brake on the toad. Then raise the release levers on your tow bar. The car Will roll slightly forward to release the pressure on the towbar.
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:16 PM   #18
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unhooking a toad

If there is a lot of pressure and things don't want to come loose start the toad and pull back or forward to relieve the pressure. Keep in mind that when you release the locks on the towbar the toad can roll forward until the towbar stops it if you are going downhill, use Park or the brakes when you release the locks. I have never had the locks on my Demco Commander refuse to unlock under any amount of pressure but if the toad is pulling back on the towbar they may not stay unlocked. You need to get rid of the backward pressure. It usually works to push against the tow vehicle with the toad and then set the brakes while the toad is pushing. Then when you smack the releases, a good kick works, the arms are free to unhook from the tow vehicle. If you get one arm loose unhook it, that will make it easier to get the other. This works on rough ground, tight turns, whatever.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:01 PM   #19
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Get the DW involved. Get her in car, start engine, put in reverse to apply back pressure to hitch arms (if off center crank wheel left or right to allow release of tow bar locks), press hitch bar release buttons or handles (as applicable), have DW put car in drive and slowly roll forward till tow bar locks will not engage (about 6 inches). Un hook and DW can now relocate car to parking spot. What's the big deal?? DW is also proficient with hand signals when hooking up. Hand signals consists of only forward or back up. My DW has been doing this for many years. You do trust your DW, don't you?
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:13 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freds342 View Post
Exactly; if you cant get the bars to release easily with the levers, you may be on a side to side bind. Putting the toad in gear, and moving slightly forward usually eases this bind. You may have to move the toad a few inches slightly to the left or right, depending on the bind, but it will normally clear the bind. Sometimes you have to disconnect one arm at a time, and experiment.

Seldom is it a problem with height, but side-to-side binding.

I have used the hammer and pien method (in the past), but recommend the gentler method of slightly moving the toad to release strain.

Works for me, but.........
Oh it's the side to side binding, not at all the height. I didn't know it was okay to unhook one and the move the car to unhook the other. I've had that happen both times where one would release the other wouldn't a d one other time neither would release but then I realized we were on a side to side slope. Thanks for the tips!!
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