Hot Water Heater By Pass kit

[shorty]

I own a 2008 Georgetown 373 and I would like to winterize it, but I cannot find the by pass kit. Is it in side or outside? I know where the hot water heater is and the anorod...I am just not sure about the kit and how to access it. Thanks!

[steveqvs]

In my travel trailer it is real close to the hot water heater. Its just a little lever on the line going in.

[milzat]

Shorty,

If it's factory installed and if it's a Suburban brand(see photo below), the by-pass is behind the water heater tank. If it's an Atwood brand(second photo), it'll be similar.





You may have to remove a panel on the inside of your Motorhome to gain access.

Links below to RV Water Heater Bypass Systems:

http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bypass.html

http://www.wikihow.com/Bypass-the-Wa...ter-of-Your-RV

Video to winterizing RV on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHVCvkCPJfw

[shorty]

Thanks for responding.

[cfsoistman]

I have a Georgetown 370 and the by-pass for the water heater is next to the water heater but not accessible from the water heater compartment. To get to mine I have to open the door that accesses the Propane Bottle. To the left there is a 4" white plastic screw in plug that acts like an access port. Remove that and the water heater is directly inside. The by-pass valves are already installed and just need to be turned to isolate the water heater. Hopefully this helps.

[UConnrick]

I have a Charleston that didn't have one, I just put one in myself. Do you have a manifold system to turn off and on water to different parts of the coach? If so, the thinking was that you could utitlze that to shut off the water to the HWH. It still would have left water in the lines.

If you don't have a by-pass, it's easy to install and better than using the manifold system.

[shorty]

Thanks for responding; This is my first time doing this so, please excuse my elementary level of questions. Do you empty and clean the hot water heater 1st, then place in by pass mode, then add anti freeze through the water pump? After that, do you then drain the fresh water tank and simply leave empty or do you put anti freeze in that too.
I guess which way is the fast an simplest way to winterize each component and in a simple order that works for you.
I plan to camp all winter long and use the campground facilities here in Maryland and Virginia. I would like to also dewinterize the unit quickly if we have a warm spell when I head out. I would also winterize when I return home.

[cfsoistman]

I put the water heater in by-pass and then open the relief and remove the anode rod to drain it thoroughly. I then take my hose from the house with a small nozzle and rinse out the water heater. There's generally residue in the bottom from the anode rod. It takes a couple times until it runs clear. I then remove the filter from the canister and dump the water. I open all the faucets and remove the cap from the fresh water take and open the valve to drain the lines. This takes a while so I usually do something constructive, watch Football, then close off the valve once there is no water draining and put the cap back on the fresh water tank. I then reinstall the canister minus the filter. I gain access to my water pump and turn the valve to allow the pump to suck in the anti-freeze. I close all the faucets with the exception of the one at the back of the unit. In my case it's the shower. I use a small table and line up the bottles of anti-freeze. I insert the hose from the pump into the bottle then turn on the pump. I keep it on until I have anti-freeze coming out of the shower hose. I then work my way back to the front by opening each faucet and filling the tiolets until the pink color shows. Once the interior is complete go to the outside shower and open it up to allow anti-freeze to come through. I always remove both the indoor and outdoor shower hoses from the faucets. I then remove the screen washer to the city water and fresh water inlets to access the check valves. Push them in with a finger to release the water in the line and allow the antifreeze to come out. Don't stand directly in front of them. I have a nice pink t-shirt to prove this. I pour a cup of anti-freeze into each drain, including the shower. You're done. It's nice to have two people do this to keep the trips in and out of the motorhome to a minimum, but it can be done by one person.
Before you fill your fresh water open the low water drain valve from the water lines and all of the faucets to allow the anti-freeze to drain into a gallon jug. I then dump the antifreeze from the filter canister and reinstall it still without a new filter. Close all the faucets. I then hook up the hose from my house to the city water connection and turn it on repeating the sequence of opening the faucet at the rear first. Once everything runs clear I turn off the hose and mix up a couple gallons of water with bleach to sanitize the lines. I usually use about a 1/8 cup to 5 gallons of water. I turn on each faucet until I smell the bleach and then turn them off. I let it sit for about an hour then turn the hose back on to flush this out. Close the valve at the water pump so now the water will come from the water tank. Dump the water from the filter canister and install the new filter. Hook your hose to the fresh tank inlet and fill it up. You can add 1/4 cup of bleach per 15 gallons of water to the fresh water tank if you want by pouring the bleach in the hose before connecting it to the inlet and turning it on. I recommend a funnel. Fill the tank, install anode rod, turn on pump, open relief on water heater to remove air until water comes out.
It takes the most time to allow the water to drain from the fresh water tank depending on how much is left in there. Good luck.

[shorty]

Thanks...this is good. I will do that this weekend and will keep you posted.

[shorty]

Thanks to everyone, I did it!!!!! Yippy!

On my 2008 Georgetown 373DS the by-pass system is located under the coach at the bottom of the hot water heater. I had to get on my back and slide under the coach and unscrew a white cap underneath the hot water tank. I then could stick my arm up inside a box type container and yup, there it was the valve for by-pass. I turned that and used the directions from you all. Again, I truly thank you for your help in educating a newbie.

Here is one more question: I have valve extenders on my rig and I think they are made of mesh or something. I want to upgrade them because I am losing air seriously for example, today one of my tires did not register on the tire guage. I used my air compressor to get it back to 110psi, but how long will that last. Please let me know your recommendations so I can go back to the dealer and upgrade.

[cfsoistman]

Did this just start happening? It's hard to say how long the air will last. Have you check the valves in the stems? Do you hear it leaking and have you tried using a spray bottle with a mixture of dish detergent and water? It will bubble at the leak area if you spray enough solution on it. The mesh is a protector against the line rubbing on anything. Is your warranty still good, call yor dealer, they may be able to check it or advise you where to take it. If it's not a valve stem that needs tightening, you can take it to a Ford Truck Center and have them check the tire for possibly a nail or a bad valve stem.

[shorty]

Originally Posted by cfsoistman

Did this just start happening? It's hard to say how long the air will last. Have you check the valves in the stems? Do you hear it leaking and have you tried using a spray bottle with a mixture of dish detergent and water? It will bubble at the leak area if you spray enough solution on it. The mesh is a protector against the line rubbing on anything. Is your warranty still good, call yor dealer, they may be able to check it or advise you where to take it. If it's not a valve stem that needs tightening, you can take it to a Ford Truck Center and have them check the tire for possibly a nail or a bad valve stem.

Thanks a ton for responding; My unit is brand new. I took owner ship from Chesco 8/28/08. It is still under warranty and tonight I just took it up there for them to replace the entire frige due to not keeping cold, tires will be checked and an upgrade of the valve stems because I was reading the ones that come from the factory are cheap and malfunctions a lotl. I also just saw Steve and Irv tonight they too agree the stems are crap from factory. They are going to look at the tires and valves and fix. There are some other minor annoying problems they are going to fix too.

Shorty!

[cfsoistman]

I haven't had any tire issues, thank God, But I'd be interested in knowing what replacement stems they would recommend in the event I do encounter a problem. Best of luck with everything, Charlie