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Old 06-22-2012, 04:36 PM   #21
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Need to remove the round plastic cover, three screws just to the right of the switch. Make sure power is of. This will expose the wiring for the electric element. Get a meter, set on the ohms scale, and should read almost zero ohms across the two terminals. If it does, apply power, set the meter for AC voltage 200 volt scale, and should read 120 volts across the two terminals. If the element reads near zero ohms, but you have no power, then back to that switch, and or the breaker.
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:02 PM   #22
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Will try that once the rain stops. Thanks!!
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:12 PM   #23
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1st
Do you have 120 volts at the circuit breaker panel and on the output side of the circuit breaker feeding the hot water heater? YES then move to 2

2nd
Are you getting 120 Volts at the new switch? YES then move on to 3

3rd
If you are getting it out of the switch then make sur eyou have 120 volt thru the heater overliad switch. That is the plastic covered switch that you must puch both buttons together to reset it if tripped. If this get 120 volts out move to 4.

4th
If all is good in 1 ,2, and 3 then the electric element is blown and open and will need to be replaced.

That's it
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:21 PM   #24
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The AC circuit is very simple.

The photo is of the high limit switch (under the rubber covers).
The one on the left is "blown" (not "popped") and would need to be replaced.

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Old 06-22-2012, 07:20 PM   #25
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So far no voltage at element. High limit switch is intact. Time to check to switch and power to it. Thanks to all for the advice.
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:05 PM   #26
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How do I check voltage at the switch? Where do I put the 2nd lead from the multimeter? Thanks.
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:18 PM   #27
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The white connection side of heating element (return) or the white wires capped together in the enclosure. Because its AC you cannot use "ground" as the return path. Actually you can but you'll get a false reading.

If you read across it and it reads full power its not conducting. Better to establish power to it first.
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:28 PM   #28
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HI LOU You must be a Pilot for your quick responses I also like the GERMAN short hair Pointer sorry it is the German in me.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:07 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
The white connection side of heating element (return) or the white wires capped together in the enclosure. Because its AC you cannot use "ground" as the return path. Actually you can but you'll get a false reading.

If you read across it and it reads full power its not conducting. Better to establish power to it first.
I am not getting power across the heating element following Windriders post. My high limit switch is ok.

My next step is to check the power to the switch.
So reading above, I should put one lead from the multimeter on the white side of the heating element and the other lead on the wire leading into the switch?

Also how do i check if there is power to the high limit switch?

Thanks!!!!
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:33 PM   #30
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If you don't have continuity between the two screws on the heating element, then your element is burned up. It needs to be replaced.
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