Hot Water Heater Thermostat Adjustment

[NCCoachMan]

The last couple times we've camped in our 2016 GT 369, we've not had great hot water. We have a propane-only Suburban SW10de model hot water heater and I cannot find anywhere how to adjust the temp. Looking online, it seems these may be fit with a static/un-adjustable 140º thermostat. Is that correct? Is there no way to turn the temp up or down? Thanks!

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by NCCoachMan

The last couple times we've camped in our 2016 GT 369, we've not had great hot water. We have a propane-only Suburban SW10de model hot water heater and I cannot find anywhere how to adjust the temp. Looking online, it seems these may be fit with a static/un-adjustable 140º thermostat. Is that correct? Is there no way to turn the temp up or down? Thanks!

That is correct, the temp is not adjustable. You can change the thermostat/hi-limit. I think there is also a 130 degree one.

However, if you have a true SW10DE model, the E at the end of the model number means it's also has an electric heating element.

Your electric heating element switch is located on the face of the water heater and is hidden a little.

The FAQ will show and explain it for you. Although it's the SW6DE, it's all the same except for the tank size.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post327988

[wmtire]

Is the water too hot or too cold for your needs? The reason I ask is if it's too cold, or turns cold quick....you may have the crossover valve open (or not fully closed). This happens a lot too as explained in the thread below:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

[NCCoachMan]

Originally Posted by wmtire

That is correct, the temp is not adjustable. You can change the thermostat/hi-limit. I think there is also a 130 degree one.

However, if you have a true SW10DE model, the E at the end of the model number means it's also has an electric heating element.

Your electric heating element switch is located on the face of the water heater and is hidden a little.

The FAQ will show and explain it for you. Although it's the SW6DE, it's all the same except for the tank size.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post327988

Wait, that switch is for electric heating? I always thought it had to be "ON" to get the electric spark to ignite the gas...? It has always been in the ON position, but I can clearly hear gas firing from the heater. When I get hooked up and have water on for a few minutes, I flip on the switch on the interior control panel and the heater starts doing it's thing (when I start hearing the gas flame).

What gives?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by NCCoachMan

Wait, that switch is for electric heating? I always thought it had to be "ON" to get the electric spark to ignite the gas...? It has always been in the ON position, but I can clearly hear gas firing from the heater. When I get hooked up and have water on for a few minutes, I flip on the switch on the interior control panel and the heater starts doing it's thing (when I start hearing the gas flame).

What gives?

You are just using the gas and electric heating element at the same time. No harm, and gives you the fastest heated water.

The inside your coach switch ONLY controls the propane/dsi side of your water heater....and the outside switch ONLY controls the electric heating element.

It's all explained the link I provided.

Although you may hear the DSI/propane side come on initially to heat the water...you probably don't hear it again as the electric heating element maintains it afterwards, unless you use a lot of hot water quickly.

Good thing about this thread, is you should now understand your water heater and it's dual power source a little better after reading the link in post# 2. This is one thing that is often ill-explained to new RV owners, hence the very detailed FAQ we keep.

Hope it helps

[bubbles]

You need to read your owners manual.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by NCCoachMan

Wait, that switch is for electric heating? I always thought it had to be "ON" to get the electric spark to ignite the gas...? It has always been in the ON position, but I can clearly hear gas firing from the heater. When I get hooked up and have water on for a few minutes, I flip on the switch on the interior control panel and the heater starts doing it's thing (when I start hearing the gas flame).

What gives?

You are able to use BOTH gas and electric.

Many of us use both especially when showering, to get a quicker recovery.

The switch outside you referred to is to turn on the electric element.
The Gas/DSI switch inside provides the power to the control module to spark and light the gas.

[NCCoachMan]

Reading that original post in full and carefully, I am now thinking I may have burned out the electric element, as I commonly drain the water from the low point drains and the hot water heater. I have always left that outside black (now I know---electric) switch ON. I'm certain I've plugged in shore power with no water in the tank... How can I identify if it's burned out?

And this still doesn't explain the lack of hot water. I guess I have the check bypass valves next.

[5picker]

Are you able to use a multimeter and test 120v?

If so the link wmtire provided includes a schematic of the 120v side of your water heater.

Use it to test the circuit.

[NCCoachMan]

Originally Posted by wmtire

This is one thing that is often ill-explained to new RV owners, hence the very detailed FAQ we keep.

Hope it helps

Thanks. The thing is, I'm an experienced RV'er and I DID read the owners manual this weekend. I didn't see anything about electric side of things in the manual. Our last camper had two switches inside the unit - one for electric and one for propane. We always used electric and always had plenty of hot water.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by NCCoachMan

Thanks. The thing is, I'm an experienced RV'er and I DID read the owners manual this weekend. I didn't see anything about electric side of things in the manual. Our last camper had two switches inside the unit - one for electric and one for propane. We always used electric and always had plenty of hot water.

It is easy to misunderstand.
My unit has the outside switch for the electric AND a second inside switch for the electric. BOTH have to be on for the electric to work. We let the outside switch on and simply control the electric side with the inside one. I also have the inside switch that controls the Gas/DSI. I have three switches total.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by NCCoachMan

And this still doesn't explain the lack of hot water. I guess I have the check bypass valves next.

The crossover valve being set incorrect is the usual culprit, hence the sticky link we also keep on this.

If the crossover valve is correct, there does exist another possibility that lets cold water mix into the hot water...and that's from your outdoor shower valves being left on, but the wand head turned off.

It's explained better in this youtube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsiXaMEneaY

[NCCoachMan]

You guys are the best. I will check all this out the next time we camp. We just came back from a 5-dayer in the NC mountains and it was COLD! Hot showers would have been great, but....

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by NCCoachMan

I'm certain I've plugged in shore power with no water in the tank... How can I identify if it's burned out?

There are some videos on how to test it. Let me see if I can find you a good one to post here. I'll edit this post with it, when I find one.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by NCCoachMan

Thanks. The thing is, I'm an experienced RV'er and I DID read the owners manual this weekend. I didn't see anything about electric side of things in the manual. Our last camper had two switches inside the unit - one for electric and one for propane. We always used electric and always had plenty of hot water.

Page 7 owners manual:

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
FOR UNITS WITH ELECTRIC ELEMENT
Electric water heaters are designed to operate with a minimum amount of service
problems; however, proper operation and care is essential.
By far the most common trouble with electric water heaters results from
energizing the water heater before it is filled with water. Even brief operation of
the electric element without water in the tank will burn-out the electric heating
element.
To energize the electric heating element, turn the switch to "on". The switch
is located behind the water heater door in the lower left corner of the control
housing. The water temperature will be regulated by the thermostat.
7

But of course you now know the pitfalls. You're not alone.

[Flybob]

It only takes a few seconds on an empty water tank with the electric element on to burn it out. Not a big deal though as it is easy to replace and can be found at many places. As for the water temp, Check the outside shower. If both faucets are turned on, you can get the symptoms you are seeing.

[wmtire]

Here's a decent video on testing. I normally would recommend removing at least one of the electrical wires to the element before testing, but since he also flipped the circuit breaker off going to the element, it probably suffices the same.... but I would still remove one wire before testing to make sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPK_4Cz_h80

[DickiedooFlagman]

I may have missed this - I read all the posts and did not see a mention to check the position of the HW circuit breaker in the breaker box. Just a thought.

[Trempert]

Assuming everything checks out, the thermostats do go bad. There is one for electric and one for gas. They are cheap and easy to replace.

An easy way to check is to run it on electric for a few days and then gas for a few days and see if the hot water temperature is significantly different between gas and electric. Replace the thermostat with the lower temperature.

My gas thermostat started heating the water to only about 110 degrees and when I replaced it is was once again good and hot.


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[Threex18]

After 5 months of lukewarm showers, I found the crossover valve opened. Closed it and water has steam coming off it. Ready to winterize, but I am going to take at least 1 hot shower before winter.