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04-10-2017, 08:18 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 69
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Hot water tank replacement
Just got a call from the shop that was summarizing my 2014 351DS. They couldn't get the anode back into the tank and now say I need a new tank. (They are the ones that winterized it back in Dec.) Said they tried re-tapping the hole but to no avail. Is this a common problem? Anyone have any idea how much trouble its going to be to replace the tank? Thanks in advance. - Ned
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04-10-2017, 08:31 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 34
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I would think if they took He rod out they should be able to put it back in, it treads in to the hole, some thing sounds fishy.
It's not a big task to replace the hot WH unplug the wires and disconnect the LP line and all the screws, if your going to have a dealer do it then they'll handle it
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04-10-2017, 08:36 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,285
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Sounds strange to me. Unless they damaged it when they winterized it, in which case, I would think they would have said something in the fall. I would go check it out. Usually the most that is required is a wire brush to clean the threads.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
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04-10-2017, 10:05 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 69
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Thanks guys - it sounds screwy to me as well. But since I bought this unit used and this is my 1st go around with winterizing, I don't know what shape it was in when it came out. They didn't mention any problem when they removed the anode. Maybe I'll upgrade to a tankless if it makes sense.
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04-10-2017, 10:09 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ned
Thanks guys - it sounds screwy to me as well. But since I bought this unit used and this is my 1st go around with winterizing, I don't know what shape it was in when it came out. They didn't mention any problem when they removed the anode. Maybe I'll upgrade to a tankless if it makes sense.
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Tankless is the only way to go!!!! We love ours and will never have another rig w/o one.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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04-10-2017, 10:10 AM
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#6
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,139
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Those anode rods are VERY easy to cross thread because of the weight of the anode leveraging against the short amount you have to hold on to. I suspect the tech might be new or inexperienced with installing them.
In any case, if the threads are stripped or cross threaded and running a tap won't solve the issue, tank replacement is about your only hope.
I would think they should be responsible for something they messed up.
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04-10-2017, 12:07 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 69
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Just got a call from the shop working on the RV. They were able to install the anode. They've tested it and there are no leaks. I'll be watching it REAL close. Thanks for everyone's advice.
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04-10-2017, 12:23 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,559
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I think I would take the anode rod out and ensure the threads are alright and that they just didn't cross thread it in and seal it with goop.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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04-10-2017, 12:32 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,179
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Learn to do it yourself. Winterizing and de winterizing is a simple job requiring simple hand tools, some RV antifreeze and a bit of time.
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04-10-2017, 01:49 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
Tankless is the only way to go!!!! We love ours and will never have another rig w/o one.
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Can you offer any suggestions as I'm having issues with mine. Warm, cool, etc. even at a low flow of Hot water only. Was replaced about a year ago with latest model. If I turn the temp up, it trips the reset.
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04-10-2017, 02:04 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,559
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We have a Gerard Gen 1 that just has the auto and low switch. An oxygenics shower head improved the force of the water at low flow rates. We don't have the cold/hot cycles that others seem to have, so can't help much there.
The only time we have had temp problems is when the input water was just above freezing temps. We still had warm enough water to shower, but not hot.
Hope you get some relief with yours. When they work correctly they are wonderful. We really appreciate ours when we have the grandkids. No waiting between, and the older ones can run the water as long as they like 
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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04-10-2017, 02:13 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 186
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Thanks, may need to change the shower head. Been in central PA & temps were cold last week. Warmer this week, so will see if that helps. Thanks again for the suggestions
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2021 Forest River Vengeance Rouge Armored 371A13
2021 GMC Sierra/Denali 3500HD SRW
Anderson Ultimate 24k Hitch
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04-10-2017, 02:26 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,179
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Tankless may be the way to go for some people, but not everyone is willing to pony up the bucks to change to something that has such mixed reviews.
As to the hot/cold issue that ace110 posted. Please post in a new thread. Hijacking an existing thread can be disruptive. Will be glad to offer suggestions when you post new.
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04-10-2017, 02:29 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,559
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Zowie.... Didn't seem like a thread hijack to me, we were discussing tankless with the OP.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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04-10-2017, 02:32 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
Those anode rods are VERY easy to cross thread because of the weight of the anode leveraging against the short amount you have to hold on to. I suspect the tech might be new or inexperienced with installing them.
In any case, if the threads are stripped or cross threaded and running a tap won't solve the issue, tank replacement is about your only hope.
I would think they should be responsible for something they messed up.
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What it sounds like to me as well and they should bear the cost of their screw up. Not you.
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04-10-2017, 02:34 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ned
Just got a call from the shop that was summarizing my 2014 351DS. They couldn't get the anode back into the tank and now say I need a new tank. (They are the ones that winterized it back in Dec.) Said they tried re-tapping the hole but to no avail. Is this a common problem? Anyone have any idea how much trouble its going to be to replace the tank? Thanks in advance. - Ned
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I don't see any mention of tankless in the post, but then maybe I'm blind....
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04-10-2017, 02:37 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip
I don't see any mention of tankless in the post, but then maybe I'm blind....
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Yep, blind, or don't read the whole post like many others. #4 by the OP.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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04-10-2017, 07:08 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 498
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Had a little cross thread issue with my tank but half inch drive socket and some lube recut the threads. The threads can just be rusty and seem badly crossed but aren't. My guess is the RV shop had a more experienced tech work on it. Teflon tape will seal small gaps. Those heaters are pretty expensive to replace if it can be fixed instead.
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04-10-2017, 09:30 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donniedu
Learn to do it yourself. Winterizing and de winterizing is a simple job requiring simple hand tools, some RV antifreeze and a bit of time.
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X2..........If you want it done RIGHT....Do it Yourself!
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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04-10-2017, 09:46 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,024
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Reading the posts on this site for a while now, I keep thinking maybe I should open an RV dealership and repair shop.
Seems to be a pretty lucrative business and seem to be a lot of less than stellar outfits out there.
If I treated customers halfway good and provided quality work with no issues, I could probably make a fortune.
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