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Old 12-04-2018, 08:54 PM   #1
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How long should the fridge last on battery power

Hi All, I have a GT 364TS 2015 model. from the factory my batteries would run the fridge (110V residential) for at least 8 hours. This year I had to replace the 4 house batteries using a reputable RV mechanic, they replaced my batteries with 4 Trojan G27 batteries. My fridge only stays on now for 2 hours now. The mechanic shop say they have tested the system and the batteries are taking a charge and there is nothing else they can do. My argument is the only thing that has changed on my RV is the fact they changed the batteries and may have not hooked something up correctly but I do not know enough about the system to give a valid opinion. Can any one shed any light on this for me.

Any and all help appreciated

regards
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:01 PM   #2
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I have a 351ds, same unit as yours basically without the double bathrooms. I have the frigidaire residential fridge in mine and with full batteries and not opening the fridge or running anything else I'll get about 3 days out of them before needing to charge.
It depends what kind of batteries he put in. What the amperage of them. Deep cycle marine batteries will hold a charge longer than standard batteries etc...
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:59 PM   #3
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I have 2 Trojan T1275 batteries. They run at least 12 hours on a full charge. I think they are 110ah rated.
4 batteries should give you at least 20 hours. Like KEliasz asked "are they deep cycle batteries and what ah's are they"?
I have the residential frigidaire.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:25 AM   #4
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In order to help you figure this out we need to know the size and amp hour rating of the old batteries and the new batteries.

The G27 Trojans should be 89AH @ 20 hrs.
Do you know what the old batteries were?
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:06 AM   #5
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Thanks for the info. I am not sure of the original ones but they were the factory installed ones. I called FR and they gave me the contact info for their battery supplier and I am still waiting for them to contact me. I will go and look at the AH on the Trojan.
Regards
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:39 AM   #6
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You need to run your fridge through a kilowattmeter and figure out how much it is consuming in a 24 hour period and then you can figure out how much you are really using.


Don't do the measurement through your inverter especially if its a MSW as it won't be as accurate.


https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=3TRPMND8DGPSV
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollin with the rudgies View Post
Hi All say they have tested the system and the batteries are taking a charge and there is nothing else they can do. My argument is the only thing that has changed on my RV is the fact they changed the batteries and may have not hooked something up correctly but I do not know enough about the system to give a valid opinion. Can any one shed any light on this for me.

Any and all help appreciated

regards
I have found that A LOT OF PEOPLE, TECHS INCLUDED, simply DO NOT know what is going on with batteries.

It's is a shame that "A PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED" battery bank is not performing correctly. PROFESSIONALLY being used as sarcasm.

One of a hundred problems may be THE PROBLEM. My gut says find someone who understands the systems in a coach to go through it WITH YOU. While EXPLAINING the whole set up TO YOU, a person like the shop manager, will be actually checking the install and may see a problem that suddenly becomes obvious. . Either, the batteries are not taking and holding a charge,. OR they are not correctly installed, OR in the process, SOMEONE, you or them has introduced a new problem in to the formula. A short somewhere? I have a DC clamp meter that can immediately show how big the load is when you start turning things on. First check install. They should be, if 12 volt batteries all be in parallel. + To + and then to the + lead front the coach and - to - then to the frame. Ought to be a total battery disconnect switch on one side or the other. Once you ARE SURE that nothing is wired wrong/backwards or whatever, then disconnect the whole bank and charge it with an external high quality battery charger. Then after 24 hours or more on a charger try putting one thing at a time on line. With a clamp meter or the like, you should be able to see first NO DRAW then a couple amps ambient draw for things like the propane detector and CO detector which are usually ON at all times the batteries are on line. Then start turning things on and watch the draw.

My rule is look at the last "WORK" done, or in other words , every thing the last guy shoulda touched or mighta touched. Good batteries go bad over time, especially with the abuse/extreme load of a residential frig. But system not performing at all well on new batteries, screams SOME BODY SCREWED UP.

Good luck.
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Old 12-06-2018, 12:33 PM   #8
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Thank you all for the info. the coach is still the same as it came from the factory except the installation of new Trojan batteries (deep cycle G27) so everything should have been the same. The shop reset the Invertor and from a full charge the batteries have been running the fridge for 48 hours. I just had to push them to check other things and not just say they had done everything they could.

Wishing you all a great holiday season

Regards
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:14 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by rollin with the rudgies View Post
Thank you all for the info. the coach is still the same as it came from the factory except the installation of new Trojan batteries (deep cycle G27) so everything should have been the same. The shop reset the Invertor and from a full charge the batteries have been running the fridge for 48 hours. I just had to push them to check other things and not just say they had done everything they could.

Wishing you all a great holiday season

Regards
I am right around the corner from you in Northridge if you want a second pair of eyes to look at it for you.
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