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Old 08-09-2016, 12:42 PM   #91
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have read many of the messages and all mention remove the side trim to be able to get to the sheared screws. However no one mentioned how to get the trim off. I saw where on post said to use screw drivers, however I tried that with no luck. Can someone one help describe in detail how to remove the trim?
Take a razor blade and cut through the silicone chalking on top up the trim. Then remove the inner trim with a small screwdriver. Mark it on the back side which way you took it off. Use a cordless drill with a #2 square bit and remove the large trim screws. Remove the large trim and mark it also. Under the chalking you will find the bolts in question. Use a large Phillips screwdriver and try to turn them. If they turn a full turn, then they are sheared and need to be repaired/replaced. Hope thi8s helps
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:08 PM   #92
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Thanks. Just filed a Complain Number with safercar.gov about the problem
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Old 10-05-2016, 08:47 PM   #93
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Take a razor blade and cut through the silicone chalking on top up the trim. Then remove the inner trim with a small screwdriver. Mark it on the back side which way you took it off. Use a cordless drill with a #2 square bit and remove the large trim screws. Remove the large trim and mark it also. Under the chalking you will find the bolts in question. Use a large Phillips screwdriver and try to turn them. If they turn a full turn, then they are sheared and need to be repaired/replaced. Hope thi8s helps
With the blue concrete screws you installed how long do they have to be to get into the frame?

What type of head did they blue screw have? flat, fan or ?
Was washers needed?

Just gathering the facts just in case.

I have a 2012 378TS with 50,000 miles and I have not noticed this as of yet. But I do want to be prepared just in case.
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:04 PM   #94
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Hi, Great to hear from a retired USAF MSgt, I was a USAF TSgt.

To answer your question, the blue concrete anchor bolts are made by Tapcon. They are 1/4 x 3 1/2. The head is tapered just like the Forest Rivers bolts and are a Phillips head. No washers were used. Use can not use the Forest Rivers holes and must drill new ones. I doubled the holes used by Forest Rivers.

Hope this helps,
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:31 PM   #95
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Hi, Great to hear from a retired USAF MSgt, I was a USAF TSgt.

To answer your question, the blue concrete anchor bolts are made by Tapcon. They are 1/4 x 3 1/2. The head is tapered just like the Forest Rivers bolts and are a Phillips head. No washers were used. Use can not use the Forest Rivers holes and must drill new ones. I doubled the holes used by Forest Rivers.

Hope this helps,


Hi TSgt

Thanks for the information.
Is 3 1/3" long the size it takes to hit the metal frame?
I can see why the 1/4" would stress and shear off.
The concrete screws I know are much harder
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:49 PM   #96
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Yes, they thread into the front side of the frame, but not the back side.

In most areas use could use a 5 1/2 tapered bolt and drill all the way through the frame and put a nut and washer on the bolt. My Georgetown you can see the frame under the fender-well. Not sure about yours.
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:52 PM   #97
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I also just thought of, If you do replace them now with the blue concrete bolts, you just have to remove the Forest rivers bolt and install the new ones. No drilling.
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Old 10-06-2016, 02:02 PM   #98
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So the outside trim is just silicone in place?
If you just remove that you can see the screw heads of the ones that sheared off?

If it isn't a big deal I may just do that and install the better harder screws instead of waiting.


Notice the head and the amount of thread to the head.
I would think the one with all the thread would be good. What did you use?
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:22 PM   #99
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The top one that is tapered, is what I used. If you use the lower one, then you won't be able to get the trim back on. Needs to be countersunk. If you do drill, drill the 1/4in drill 1st, then lightly countersink the fiberglass panel.
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:28 PM   #100
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The top one that is tapered, is what I used. If you use the lower one, then you won't be able to get the trim back on. Needs to be countersunk. If you do drill, drill the 1/4in drill 1st, then lightly countersink the fiberglass panel.
Flat head screw. Got it.
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