I REALLY hate to ask. Water heater bypass.....

[Dmhawv7]

Yes I looked at the manual, yes I looked in the water heater compartment, yes I have tried to search the topic ....... I still need help.

First time winterizing GT5 31L. I am at a loss for discovering the location of the water heater bypass lines. I expected to see the inline switches right at the heater, but I don’t. Can anyone help?

Second dumb question. I drained the water filter enough to remove the canister but I also expected to find a pressure relief valve on the top of the filter, which I did not. Is there some trick to relieving the pressure without having to drain the water?

Sorry. I feel like the answers to these questions are staring me in the face but I simply am stumped.

Thanks for any help and happy thanksgiving everyone!

[silver]

My Georgetown had the bypass right inside the coach behind the water heater. I do not remember if it was a signal valve type or three valve type. Both are common. As for the water filter, no pressure release valve. I shut off city water, the pump and open a line to release pressure.

[llr]

the water heater bypass valves are probably on the inside of the unit behind the water heater although I had an older class A and the valve was far enough away the label was the only clue and some units still probably don't have bypass valves. post a picture of the back of the WH if you can't find it.

for the pressure turn off the pump/disconnect the city hose and open a faucet

[wmtire]

Each RV can be different as to how it's plumbed. This thread and video might be of assistance. Some motorhomes have an access hatch to the backside of the water heater underneath the RV, as explained in this link:


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

Video 3 at this link may help too:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...es-135977.html

[Dmhawv7]

Thank you for the quick and helpful responses. I knew what I was looking for.... just not where to find it. But I did. Here are pictures for anyone else with the same question.

[McCormickJim]

For your next trick on the 31L5, have you found the antifreeze siphon tube? I thought the unit didn't have one. When I took the GT31L5 to a shop to have a bypass valve added, they politely showed me where it is located.

It is hidden behind a panel, just like the one hiding the water heater valves.

Look in your basement on the passenger side, forward of the heater. I had to remove the cover to access the valves and tube. The "hand port" just isn't big enough to allow access.

[KEliasz]

I have a 351ds and I took off those little hand port covers. I don't see the purpose for them being there

[mogman]

We travelled to Alaska via BC and Yukon. When you see the amount of crud that gets sucked up into the compartments when the hand hole covers are missing, you'll put them back!!!

[Dennis King]

There should be another valve also coming off on the water pump also?
There is a link to very good winterizing instructions somewhere in the forum Pumps won’t work after dewinterizing! The dealer wonterized mine and I had to dewinterize on my own once I got in warmer climate. Great folks on here told me it was a white valve on mine leading from the pump! I turned it and all was well ! BUT I am a newbie! I believe they turned that valve when they were putting antifreeze in my lines. But did not tell me about that when they told me how to de-winterize! I will try to find that post with great instructions from Forest River!

[Dennis King]

Could not find it yet but will check later after going to beach at Grassy Key. Finally not so windy. But there is a valve on your pump that should be turned. It was not the three red and blue ones it was by water pump on a hose that sucked water from fresh water I believe. But I am not sure if you have to change it’s position when winterizing or not but they did on my unit. Hopefully one of the wise wizards on this forum will complete my poor attempt at explaining what to do. Sorry Good Luck!

[sherman12]

I think what Dennis was trying to get across is the "valve" that is turned one way or the other to assist in winterizing. Find your water pump, turn it on and listen if you don't know where it is. Once to find it there should be a white short valve on one end of the pump. During use the valve should be parallel with the water line to let water to the pump from the water tank. Turn the valve perpendicular to the water line shuts off pump suction from the tank. Then, you should find a clear plastic hose somewhere around the pump. With the valve perpendicular you now have suction from the plastic hose to suck up antifreeze into and through out the water lines. When done winterizing always make sure this valve is turned back parallel to the water line so the pump will draw water from the water tank. Often, if you just look at and trace the water lines you can make easy sense of how things work.

[McCormickJim]

In the GT 31L5, the water pump and siphon tube are on the passenger side in a basement bay. Look in the bay just in front of the dual tires. There is a screw-in port to access the winterize valve and siphon tube. It is not required, but you may also remove the entire cover with just a few screws. With a flashlight you can see and then reach the winterize valve. The siphon tube can be moved around to help it exit the access port.

I winterized yesterday using 3 gallons of antifreeze.

[sherman12]

McCormickJim, that's alot of antifreeze. Are you sure you have your water heater bypassed? On my GT I have never used more than a gallon and that includes what sits in the water filter housing. By the way, I put a plastic I believe 24 oz. Pepsi bottle with the top cut off, then upside down in the filter housing so not as much antifreeze goes in there.

[McCormickJim]

Sherman12, when I read your post I scratched my head and mentally went through my Winterize procedure. I wonder why the significant difference in antifreeze volumes? Where in the coach am I holding more antifreeze than you are.

I've winterized twice since buying the coach in April 17. This time I used just a little less than the first time. This is attributable to this time putting a water bottle in the filter housing.

Yep, the water heater is bypassed. Thanks for the thought on that. I know it is bypassed as I leave the anode tube out when stored.

A real curiosity on the big difference in antifreeze volumes.

Thanks for the input.

[Mr. Dan]

The difference in antifreeze volume used MAY have to do with how much each of you run through each faucet, the shower heads (inside and out), the toilet, and the black tank flush (yes or no). One of you may run a half gallon through each water outlet and one may only use a pint at each outlet.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Dmhawv7

Yes I looked at the manual, yes I looked in the water heater compartment, yes I have tried to search the topic ....... I still need help.

First time winterizing GT5 31L. I am at a loss for discovering the location of the water heater bypass lines. I expected to see the inline switches right at the heater, but I don’t. Can anyone help?

Second dumb question. I drained the water filter enough to remove the canister but I also expected to find a pressure relief valve on the top of the filter, which I did not. Is there some trick to relieving the pressure without having to drain the water?

Sorry. I feel like the answers to these questions are staring me in the face but I simply am stumped.

Thanks for any help and happy thanksgiving everyone!

To answer your 2nd question: No relief valve. Just open any faucet to relieve pressure.

[sherman12]

I run each faucet/shower/toiler/outside shower enough to see pink antifreeze come out in a nice stream of each. I have enough left in the jug to poor some down each trap.

[sherman12]

Just a thought, does McCormickJim blow out his water lines with air first? I know some folks just pump antifreeze through until they see pink there by skipping a step. I would guess you would use more antifreeze that way.

[McCormickJim]

A good thought and yes, I just pump antifreeze, without blowing out the lines first. I'll be adding the line blow-out to the process once I purchase an air compressor.

I've read that I need to limit the pressure to 20 psi to keep from damaging lines, but I haven't seen any suggestions on cfm. Suggestions on how many cfm are required for the purchased compressor would be appreciated.

[sherman12]

McCormickJim, I don't know about cfm, but what I would look at is psi when purchasing an air compressor. You want one that will go to a minimum of 100 psi, better yet 150 psi. That way you'll have a compressor that can handle airing up your RV's tires which I guess will take somewhere between 85#-100# of pressure. You can't go to a gas station to get that kind of air pressure. Harbor Freight always has small compressors on sale, anywhere from $69.99 and up that'll do the job nicely. I have a small Sears 150 psi with what I think is a 2 gallon air tank that I think can still be had for $99.99 when on sale. Second year I had my first rig I asked for it for Christmas from my kids.