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Old 08-10-2012, 09:53 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by sherman12
buckeroo, I learned a lot from this forum on issues that seem to plague Geogetown's and conversely what to look for and ask the dealer (if buying from one, or private seller) about these issues and where to look and inspect yourself. Briefly what I can determine from my research on this forum, the biggest problems are; orange hydraulic line bursting/needing repair, hydraulic pump seals leaking, which get into the pump motor, causing heat and failure ($1800 to replace!), hot water tanks coming loose, need re-reinforcing of support straps, side wall (either side) self tapping screws coming loose and the actual side walls dropping anywhere from 1/4 inch to 1" resulting in a timely and expensive repair. These are the four top items I have found on this forum and others regarding GT/Forest River which are directly attributed to quality control at the factory. Remember, things like alignments and brakes etc. are chassis items that go directly to Ford. Other issues such as AC units, fridge, micros, generators etc. go to the different makers of supplied conveniences that GTown installs. There you will see no difference from GT to other manufacturers (some hi end rigs). You will see posts on this forum for the items I pointed out, no less other items too. Finally, I started reading this forum about a month ago waiting for my 2011 330TS to come into the dealer on trade, had a $1000 deposit on it since May 02! Reading the outlined problems made me aware of what to look for and have repaired and though a little scared have not backed away from my deal and hope to take delivery next week! May change opinion if don't have it by then hahahaha!

Forum friends, sorry to high jack the thread!
There are way more units out there with no issues than there are with issues. I love mine, and for the price you cant beat it. Go visit the other high dollar RV forums and you will see issues there as well.
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:09 PM   #72
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wildhog, Agree 100% that all manufacturers have there own set of problems and quality control issues, but since we are on a Forest River Forum and talking about Georgetown MH's in particular, I was pointing out the major areas of frustration at lack of QC experienced by but a few FR/GT owners. Hopefully when (WHEN!) I get my 2011 330TS DW and I will be in the majority!
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:09 PM   #73
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I'm not hear to complain but to learn more about my Georgetown from others. Countless satisfied Georgetown owners are many but they probably aren't here on this forum.
It seem you hear about problems and you thin all have these problems and that is far from the truth. They are thousands who have no problems at all.

Anyway......
I'm heading to the cooler California coast with my Georgetown for at least 7 days of total relaxation. Don't forget the chilled beer.

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Old 08-10-2012, 09:45 PM   #74
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There is a lot of wrong info here. The Ford chassis has one adjustable tie rod that connects the two front wheels. Adjusting the tie rod corrects the toe in of both wheels. If the steering wheel is not straight once this is completed the steering wheel is pulled by popping the caps on the back of the steering wheel and unscrewing the bolts from the exposed holes to release the center steering wheel cover (the horn). A steering wheel puller is used to pop the SW off of the splined shaft. The SW is then placed back on the splined shaft engaging the correct spline so it is straight. If the mechanic knows what he is doing the SW reset takes about 20 minutes.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:28 PM   #75
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There is a lot of wrong info here. The Ford chassis has one adjustable tie rod that connects the two front wheels. Adjusting the tie rod corrects the toe in of both wheels. If the steering wheel is not straight once this is completed the steering wheel is pulled by popping the caps on the back of the steering wheel and unscrewing the bolts from the exposed holes to release the center steering wheel cover (the horn). A steering wheel puller is used to pop the SW off of the splined shaft. The SW is then placed back on the splined shaft engaging the correct spline so it is straight. If the mechanic knows what he is doing the SW reset takes about 20 minutes.
That use to work, but now the steering wheel is not splined (2012). The splined joint is right above the gearbox below the universal joint. It still takes about 15 mins but no puller is needed, fairly simple job.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:47 AM   #76
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Correctly if I'm wrong, but I believe to achieve a total front end alignment the shop will heat and bend with come-alongs the solid front axle on the Ford. This is what was done on my present 2000 Allegro and the difference was incredible.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:49 AM   #77
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Iggy, a camping trip with out ice cold beer just isn't a true camping trip!
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:16 AM   #78
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I have a March 3, 2012 Georgetown XL 378. Last month had alignment done and watched the procedure for the steering wheel. Although the joint you are discussing can be used to perform the SW reposition, the shaft to steering wheel is also splined and is much easier to adjust. The comment regarding the axle bending is correct. If the camber is off on alignment check that will need to be done. With the Ford single I beams that is a Ford issue and is usually not from loading the MH on it. Caster is the next common issue following toe in/out. That is adjusted with the placement of shims between the spring and axle. The caster for the 2012 ford F53 is 6 degrees positive for optimum tracking.
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:59 AM   #79
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I need some info or advice about steering stabilizers for a Georgetown xl 378. Before taking possession of the unit on order I asked the dealer to give me an estimate to install the Safe T plus stabilizers on the 378 the day before we drive it home. I mentioned that Camping world had the shocks # 41 140 (the red ones) for F 53 chassis for $450-500.
He comes back and tells me that the Georgetown IS NOT mounted on a F53 but on a F650 chassis because it has 22" wheels and will require the more expensive blue stabilizers.
Can anyone please tell me what chassis the current Georgetown is built on? When did they stop using the F53? Is it true that because it has 22000lb rated axles and 22" tires they have a F650 Ford chassis?
I think he is just trying to raise the price of the steering shocks and making up nonsense about the chassis. Had to tell from the Ford site but the F650 is associated with the larger wheels.
Help me before he burns me any more than he has already with my trade in. Thanks.
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:52 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan JS
I need some info or advice about steering stabilizers for a Georgetown xl 378. Before taking possession of the unit on order I asked the dealer to give me an estimate to install the Safe T plus stabilizers on the 378 the day before we drive it home. I mentioned that Camping world had the shocks # 41 140 (the red ones) for F 53 chassis for $450-500.
He comes back and tells me that the Georgetown IS NOT mounted on a F53 but on a F650 chassis because it has 22" wheels and will require the more expensive blue stabilizers.
Can anyone please tell me what chassis the current Georgetown is built on? When did they stop using the F53? Is it true that because it has 22000lb rated axles and 22" tires they have a F650 Ford chassis?
I think he is just trying to raise the price of the steering shocks and making up nonsense about the chassis. Had to tell from the Ford site but the F650 is associated with the larger wheels.
Help me before he burns me any more than he has already with my trade in. Thanks.
Alan start your own thread to get better info and more coverage.

Piggy backIng a thread doesn't always yield many answers.

Ron
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