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Old 06-07-2016, 11:21 AM   #21
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englewood FL
Posts: 1,599
Quote:
Originally Posted by HookupAndGo View Post
So the best way to show this is through pictures.
So, here is my layout...
OK, I understand now, my 335 has a much different layout. In thinking about it you could have a sheet metal shield made that mounts to the cross members forward of the batteries. Make a at least a couple inches higher than the controller, leave it open at the top but with a deep bent edge at the bottom and sides...sort of a deep pan open at the top. Any sheet metal shop will make it for you in 10 minutes. Mount the pan and then the controller facing to the rear. The bottom and the bottom edge should keep splatter off of the controller. Mount it above the jack as high as you can but with a little room for convection flow up and out. The important part is to allow air to convect vertically through the heat sinks on the controller and out the top. You won't get any splatter from the top side. I can see that the splatter is on the outboard side of the batteries and on the lower part of the jack.

As far as wiring is concerned, you could come down from the roof into the compartment over the windshield where the antenna booster and AV switch is. From there, if you take off the plastic trim piece that is also the track for the shade on the passenger side, you will find a lot of room behind that so that you can go from the compartment above down below the dash and then route it wherever to the battery compartment. The trim has a lot of room but if you need more than #10PV wire, the best thing might be to use two feeds of #10PV since anything bigger might be a tight squeeze behind the trim piece. 2 #10s will give you enough for 4 100 to 150 watt panels.
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