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12-12-2013, 05:26 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Hoof it on down to Texas and do it there.
Have NAPA or some shop like it make the hoses for you.
__________________
2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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12-13-2013, 03:23 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 283
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I did not do that, although I sure considered it. I was afraid it would leak enough pressure to let the jacks drift down while driving, a real bad thing. Just decided it wasn't worth the worry. Will post the cost Monday when it's done. The hydraulic shop I am taking it to has done some for DesMoines RV, so they know what needs done. Thanks to all who posted ideas.
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12-16-2013, 07:57 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 283
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Got MH back today from hydraulic shop! Just over 300 bucks, but it is done!
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12-16-2013, 10:03 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: vero beach fl
Posts: 149
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Newellri thanks for getting back to us
BTY how many hoses were changed
for "300 bucks"? was it just one?
A RV repair shop in my town wanted over $1000.00 to replace
all of mine.
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12-17-2013, 07:58 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 283
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That was for one hose. The labor was three hours to remove and replace and purge the air from the system. It was two quart low on fluid.
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12-17-2013, 09:06 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 244
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Lippert covered all my hoses and FR covered the labor which was around $1000.
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12-17-2013, 09:44 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Does anyone know?
If you use the allen wrench on a particular valve prior to opening the hose on that valve reduce the amount of pressure and loss of ATF fluid?
Just thought to ask if I ever need to do this.
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12-17-2013, 01:01 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
Does anyone know?
If you use the allen wrench on a particular valve prior to opening the hose on that valve reduce the amount of pressure and loss of ATF fluid?
Just thought to ask if I ever need to do this.
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Doubt it, the valve connects to pump output manifold, hose will still have high pressure. Best I can tell.
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12-27-2013, 08:11 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 36
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So is there a way to bleed the psi off before removing the hose? I have three of the red hoses on my 2010 373 that I'm going to change out this spring.
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12-28-2013, 10:23 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 532
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To my knowledge, if jacks are retracted and leveling system is turned off, there shouldn't be any pressure in the system, only will have pressure if the hydraulic pump motor is running......
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12-29-2013, 09:40 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 283
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For what it worth, the hose made by a hydraulic shop was about $60.00. I am sure NAPA or other parts shops would be about same cost. Also most AG dealers make hoses, I have had many made at my local Deere dealer.
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12-29-2013, 10:05 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dijoeboss
To my knowledge, if jacks are retracted and leveling system is turned off, there shouldn't be any pressure in the system, only will have pressure if the hydraulic pump motor is running......
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Well not quite, the system maintains pressure "two blocked" on both sides of all pistons. This keeps the jacks and slides in position. Without system pressure the jacks will gravitate and slides are free to move. If you disable the motor + connection and bleed off the system you'll get rid of the pressue. Don't think any valves will work though, the pump power is applied to solenoid valves also. The system pressure is well over 1000 psi, need to be careful working on oil side.
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12-29-2013, 08:48 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newellri
For what it worth, the hose made by a hydraulic shop was about $60.00. I am sure NAPA or other parts shops would be about same cost. Also most AG dealers make hoses, I have had many made at my local Deere dealer.
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Curious. Did they have the ends?
What size and type were they?
Just wondering if I need to do this again.
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12-29-2013, 11:01 PM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU
Well not quite, the system maintains pressure "two blocked" on both sides of all pistons. This keeps the jacks and slides in position. Without system pressure the jacks will gravitate and slides are free to move. If you disable the motor + connection and bleed off the system you'll get rid of the pressue. Don't think any valves will work though, the pump power is applied to solenoid valves also. The system pressure is well over 1000 psi, need to be careful working on oil side.
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I understand that the system maintains psi as you say to keep everything in place, but where do you bleed the pressure off at? Is there a bleed valve located somewhere on the system?
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12-30-2013, 01:57 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 283
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Yes they had everything on hand, they did not appear to be anything special. My local Deere dealer would make them for my farm machinery and they used many different kinds of ends and always had them on hand. Often they would make them while I would wait. I am sure one of our local parts stores makes them also. I think changing them would be simple enough but I would need some more room to work under to get old hoses out, the rear ones lay on top of the fuel tank on my 350ts. FR offered to provide the hose if I would wait 3 weeks for the replacement.
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12-31-2013, 04:20 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmexline
I understand that the system maintains psi as you say to keep everything in place, but where do you bleed the pressure off at? Is there a bleed valve located somewhere on the system?
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Never had to do it, my problems were electrical/electronic in nature. To remove any hydraulic component I would disconnect and safe end the heavy 12V supply to the pump. After that simply release a supply and return hose at any device. Shouldn't be much volume esp if you chose a high point connection (slide). At least you'll expect a short burst of oil pressure.
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