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Old 11-19-2019, 07:56 PM   #1
Btm
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Low point drain extensions & compartment heater

Living in Central Texas does not require winterizing for long periods of time. There is usually several times that the weather does require winterizing.( 2 weeks ago temp was in low 20ísótoday it was 80 deg ), so I added extensions to make it easier.

There is 3 lines taped together under the M H about 6 inches past the compartment towards the center where low point drain is marked. I took the 2 port hole cover off so I could determine where the lines were coming from.

One was a 3/4 in. clear overflow for the fresh water. It had some screen taped over the end to keep bugs out. One of the other lines with a plug was coming out of the fresh water tank , about 1 inch above the bottom. Now I have found the F W drain I Iíve been looking for. The other line is the low point drain for the water lines.

While checking the pump valve and hose for adding antifreeze I found what I think is a compartment heater outlet. At the back and up at the top is a 3 inch hole with a 2 inch metal pipe sticking down about 1 inch. This is directly below where the furnace is located. Maybe part if the ďArticĒ package? Next time it is cold enough to run the furnace I will put a remote thermometer in there to see if it has warm air from the furnace.

Btm
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Old 11-20-2019, 02:53 PM   #2
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My water pump is on the passenger side and the furnace is on the driver's side. There is a few inches of gap above the fresh water tank but I cannot see the far side (the driver's side).

I had a remote temp sensor by our water pump when it was down to the low 20's here and the pump compartment was a fairly consistent 10 degrees above the outside air temperature. It will be interesting to see if your results are different. I did have the tank heaters turned on and about 1/3rd level in all three tanks.

I suspect my water pump compartment is just warmed by the temperature of the fresh water tank walls and the coach floor. It does have the foil insulation on all walls and the floor.

The wet bay is located at the far rear driver's side (under the shower) and is consistently only about three degrees above the outside air temperature. While it has some of the foil insulation it does not have any on the bottom.

To heat it, I purchased a 250 watt Honeywell Heat Bud from Amazon for about $20. I also purchased a Thermo Cube, which is a two-outlet "adapter" that will turn the power on to the two outlets at 35 degrees F and off at 45 degrees F.

I had to place the Heat Bud on a small piece of wood to assure its safety switch on the bottom would stay pushed in (because of the compartment bottom ribs). The Heat Bud is in the forward corner by the shower faucets and set to High heat for rapid recovery.

I ran an extension cord out the wet bay and right back into the next compartment forward. That pass-through compartment has a factory-installed 120 VAC outlet on the other side. The extension cord runs through the pass-through and plugs into that outlet.

The remote temp sensor confirmed the wet bay never goes below 35 degrees even when it was 20 outside. I placed the remote temp sensor on the bottom of the wet bay at the opposite end.

Ray
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:39 PM   #3
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Differences

I am doing almost the same as you for compartment heat. Some day I want to run power to the pump and wet bay compartments and not have extension chords running between them. It would be nice to have the 110volt power thru the inverter so I could have compartment heat while traveling the road in below freezing temps.

It is amazing the different brands of equipment,how they operate, vary by model number, and even different on same models with most manufacturers not knowing how their own things operate, all under the same name brand.

I am thinking that you should read what you can on the forums, but check your own M H has because it may not be like what was just posted about a model like yours.


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Old 11-21-2019, 11:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Btm View Post

I am thinking that you should read what you can on the forums, but check your own M H has because it may not be like what was just posted about a model like yours.


Btm
Yep! When we got our new GT XL369 this year I took off all the panels that they use to cover stuff up and went through all the plumbing & electrical so I KNOW how it all works! It makes it A LOT easier to figure things out when you have a problem when you know how it's all supposed to work. It amazes me the number of people that have NO CLUE about how anything works on their rig, all they know is to turn a switch and it works...
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:36 PM   #5
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Btm, fantastic addition.

For other readers, here is another option: Manifold valves.

Add a 1/2" 'close nipple' (Home Depot) to each of your drains and then add a Manifold valve (Amazon).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-...8081/100038935

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 11-21-2019, 02:06 PM   #6
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Add the riser and one of these from HD/Lowes/Ace etc.
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:53 PM   #7
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....and then add a Manifold valve (Amazon).


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What is that 2nd pc. with the manifold? It looks like some kind of easy pex clamp for the 1/2" line. Am I right and what tool do you use to clamp a line with this? Are the clamps sold separately?
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