Hello. I have a 2012 Georgetown XL 334DS. I just noticed that there seems to be water leaking from a plastic hose under the motorhome. I am on city water at the Grand Canyon. There are three hoses hanging down at the Low Point Drain. Two have ends screwed into them. The third is a hose with plastic tape at the end. This is the one that is leaking. The leak seems to be connected to the City water system. When I turn off the City supply, the dripping out of the hose stops. When I turn it back on, the dripping out of the hose reappears. Does anyone have any idea what this hose is and where the water is coming from? I have been camping with this motorhome for 3 weeks and have not noticed a leak before. Thanks.
Hello. I have a 2012 Georgetown XL 334DS. I just noticed that there seems to be water leaking from a plastic hose under the motorhome. I am on city water at the Grand Canyon. There are three hoses hanging down at the Low Point Drain. Two have ends screwed into them. The third is a hose with plastic tape at the end. This is the one that is leaking. Does anyone have any idea what this hose is and where the water is coming from? I have been camping with this motorhome for 3 weeks and have not noticed a leak before. Thanks.
Two plugged "pipes" are pressurized Hot and Cold water winter drains.
The open tube is the overflow conection from the top of the fresh water, tank. The drip can be the tank with a very minor fill leak now overflowing or simply condensation coming from water in the tank. Tank level check should tell you whats going on. There is a built in check valve at the discharge of the water pump. If it leaks the shore pressure will flow backwards through the pump and fill the tank.
Thank you for your prompt reply and information. I turned off the City water supply, and, as you described, the fresh water tank is showing full. So can you tell me what part is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced? You mentioned the water pump and a check valve. Which part is malfunctioning? And where can I find the water pump? Is there a way to reset the check valve, if it is leaking? Thanks so much for your help.
Also, if you have a diverter valve that allows you to fill your fresh water tank when you are connected to city water, it may no be quite closed all the way.
__________________ Happy Camping! ///// Richard D.
2006 4x4 Ford 250 SD / 2007 Flagstaff 827 FLS
One very patient wife and one furry child who travels with us. Forty-two years of trailering and camping, and I still have a blast.
Here is my setup in my Georgtown.
2 blue drains with plugs at end and 1 clear hose
One blue hose is the drain from the water tank.
One blue hose is the MH water system low point for draining all water in the system for winterizing.
Clear line is a over flow from the water holding tank
You will also see inside at the pump a valve and hose for adding antifreeze o winterize the whole system.
Thank you for your prompt reply and information. I turned off the City water supply, and, as you described, the fresh water tank is showing full. So can you tell me what part is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced? You mentioned the water pump and a check valve. Which part is malfunctioning? And where can I find the water pump? Is there a way to reset the check valve, if it is leaking? Thanks so much for your help.
I've never seen a 337 however I'm betting its close to being similar to my 378. The pump is normally under or close to the FW tank. Mine is in a basement compartment, but hidden behind thin black sheathing on the curb side of the unit. Easily located by opening comartment door in the area of the rear tires. Have someone start and stop the pump while you listen and you'll soon find it. If fitted the sheathing comes down easily with the square head screws and carefully work the sheathing out.
Once you locate the pump, you'll see on the "discharge" the pump casing will end into another device (cylinder with fittings on both ends maybe two inches or less long. Discharge side usually connects to hard blue piping, suction conect to tank via soft reinforced hose. Its simply a ball or flap type valve that allows flow in one direction. Of late many pumps come with the non return or check valve as an integral part.
If you are ready to repair or replace, make sure water system is drained and tank is either drained or has valve to isolate. Pump water fittings are hand tighned nuts and usually has four foundation bolts. There are tons of mfgs and model combinations, can't tell you exactly how to disassemble your pump but you goal is to clean by flush or mechanically the non-return check valve. Its easy to test when ready by attaching to hose bib or just gravite water into the pump to see if holds. If necessary sometimes can be repaired due to internal damage, I doubt thats the case here.
SHURflo's fresh water pumps have been the industry leader since 1988. These potable water pumps are self-priming and employ three independent pumping chambers to pump water smoothly and quietly. Built-in check valves prevent backflow into the tank. They can run dry without damage. Their patented design delivers smooth, consistent flow at all ranges of operation, while drawing low current. SHURflo® fresh water pumps provide flows from 1.0 GPM up to 3.5 GPM. They are built tough to provide reliable, smooth and quiet operation for many enjoyable years of use. Each SHURflo® fresh water pump is thermally protected for added safety and peace of mind. CE versions are available.
Thanks to everyone for your responses. I found the ShurFlo pump as described. It is located exactly as stated by VinceU and photographed by Iggy. Tomorrow, I will try to determine the Shurflo model and see what can be done to repair it. I really appreciate everyone's helpfulness.
So the check valve is in the pump?
If you had a leak it seems it sould have been leaking from the valve to the low point, Hummm?
That's correct, in his case leak from shore pressure back thru the offline pump. The trickle will fiill the storage tank at Atmos pressure and slowly overfill it. Shurflo pumps have this integral check valve. The pump and shore connection tee together so either source can service the main piping system.
An update. I had the Shurflo pump replaced. Initially it appeared that the seepage into the fresh water tank had been resolved. To be sure, we installed a separate back flow preventer on the line to the water pump. However, it now appears that neither of these actions has resolved the problem. The water must be getting into the Fresh Water Tank from another source. Forest River Customer Service has been no help. They responded that this is a very strange problem and that they know of no cause other than a faulty check valve in the pump. It is obvious that there is another cause. Any ideas?
For your information - There are 4 conections to the Fresh Water Tank. One is the overflow drain at the top of the Tank. The second is a drain from the bottom. The third is the connection from the bottom to the Shurflo water pump. And the fourth is a tube into the Tank at the top, which I believe must be the Fresh Tank water supply. Forest River claims that this input has no junctions and is directly fed by a separate hookup labeled Fresh Water Tank at the water input panel. I have three separate hose hookups at the panel - City Water, Fresh Water Tank, and Black Tank Flush.
An update. I had the Shurflo pump replaced. Initially it appeared that the seepage into the fresh water tank had been resolved. To be sure, we installed a separate back flow preventer on the line to the water pump. However, it now appears that neither of these actions has resolved the problem. The water must be getting into the Fresh Water Tank from another source. Forest River Customer Service has been no help. They responded that this is a very strange problem and that they know of no cause other than a faulty check valve in the pump. It is obvious that there is another cause. Any ideas?
For your information - There are 4 conections to the Fresh Water Tank. One is the overflow drain at the top of the Tank. The second is a drain from the bottom. The third is the connection from the bottom to the Shurflo water pump. And the fourth is a tube into the Tank at the top, which I believe must be the Fresh Tank water supply. Forest River claims that this input has no junctions and is directly fed by a separate hookup labeled Fresh Water Tank at the water input panel. I have three separate hose hookups at the panel - City Water, Fresh Water Tank, and Black Tank Flush.
This all correct, the only other possibilty, is the tank still full? another 378 owner had problem with the full tank siphoning into the overflow whenever the liquid level surged into the connection This occured because the vent doesn't go high enough. Other than that I gotta believe you have a rain maker on there!
Besides that is it hot where the M/H is stored, just wondering if its a trickle if the tank is still full can it be condensation with the humidity coming out the vent?
I drained the Fresh Water Tank completely. Then, over a period of 4 days, while I was hooked up to City Water, water seeped into the Tank totalling approximately 2 inches from the bottom. It is very hot here. I have been camping in Phoenix and now I am near to Joshua Tree National Park.
I'd be interested in hearing about the solution.
Sounds impossible. I'd try and trace the direct water line in from the street. I know it is a sepeate feed to the fresh water tank but...
How much water pressure do you have? Do you have a water regulator hooked up?
Please keep us posted.
Here is a basic water system and the only way to get water into that tank is thru the water pump by back pressure.
I'd be interested in hearing about the solution.
Sounds impossible. I'd try and trace the direct water line in from the street. I know it is a sepeate feed to the fresh water tank but...
How much water pressure do you have? Do you have a water regulator hooked up?
Please keep us posted.
Here is a basic water system and the only way to get water into that tank is thru the water pump by back pressure.
Good diagramatic, I'm stumped too! Got an idea though, can you remove the suction, tank side of the pumps hose? Need to drain the tank again, remove suction hose and repressure city water. That will prove forever the pump is or is not leaking back.........
Maybe the city water pressure is so high that it is overwhelming the check valve? Or do you have a pressure regulator on the inlet?
There is only one way for the water to be getting into the tank, and that is past the pump.
It is an odd problem, and I have never heard anyone ever having it.
Maybe the city water pressure is so high that it is overwhelming the check valve? Or do you have a pressure regulator on the inlet?
There is only one way for the water to be getting into the tank, and that is past the pump.
It is an odd problem, and I have never heard anyone ever having it.
I agree could be pressure, most use regulator, i check ahead, il pressure is low i'll leave off reg. The system can handle over 60 psi easily, the Pex pipe is built for over 160 psi at 75F and 100 psi @ 180F. Other fitting may not holdup as well. Point is most household supplys are 60-80 psi, campgrounds often less. Regulator iis optional.
You can remove pump hose and try with and w/o regulator, I suspect might have similar result. Also now you know it will take awhile to pass 25-30 gallons into your tank. Next time to dealer for other reason ask them again to fix it. They normally hold at all operating pressures.
Could the pump be intalled backwards?
Have you ever used only the pump and see how much pressure you have at the sink? Just a crazy thought.
I wonder if some garbage is stuck in the winterizing valve and allowing water to pass and drain into drain line.
It is easy to check out without much effort.
Iggy, thank you for the schematic of the water system. It is very helpful. Although not important, my Fresh Water Tank has an additional outlet not shown on your drawing. It is an overflow drain at the top. I decided to follow up the suggestions about the potentiality of a malfunctioning pressure regulator. So I purchased a high quality pressure regulator ($87) with adjustable settings and set it to 42 psi. However, this did not stop the seepage. So we are all still stumped. The mechanic who is helping me is located in Arizona, and I just returned home to CA. I will probably not be able to do more until my next excursion to AZ. The mechanic has promised to work on this issue until it is resolved at that time.
By the way, I have filled the Fresh Water Tank and tested the water pump. I get good pressure at the Kitchen sink (and everywhere else) so there does not seem to be anything stuck in the pipes or pump
Also, we are pretty sure that the pump cannot leak at this point because we added a back flow preventer to the system next to the pump so, even if the check valve in the pump is defective, the external back flow preventer should have stopped the seepage. And we replaced the pump so it is highly unlikely that two pumps would have had faulty check valves.