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Old 11-26-2013, 10:19 AM   #11
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On my rig, if you're going to park for an extended time, the house batteries will discharge and weaken if I don't manually turn off the LP detector. The unit itself has an ON/OFF switch right on the faceplate to turn it off because it is wired directly to the house batteries beyond the switch that most people assume turns off all draw from the house batteries.

Check your rig.

As stated by some (and as is the way on my rig) the house batteries are located under the inside steps into the coach. Somewhere fairly close is the house battery switch to turn off current draw from these batteries......however the LP/CO in your model may STILL be powered from the batteries causing your batteries to drain. Check the detector to see if it has it's own switch.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:44 AM   #12
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Thanks, all. I've had the RV plugged into 15 amps at my house for the past two weeks. The beeping continues until I actually start the vehicle and let it run for about 10-15 minutes. I'm wondering now if I also need a new converter/charger since the coach batteries aren't holding a charge.
Not sure what model you have in your Georgetown, but here is the test procedure for a WFCO.

There is also a fuse between the converter and the batteries that could have opened. Not sure of the exact location in your camper, but here is a general idea wiring diagram.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:16 AM   #13
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Herk, Here is a question since I am not familiar with 50 amp service (assuming he has 50) if you connect 15 amp cord (115 volt) using an adapter is it possible the power is only supplying one half of the circuits in the MH and that 1/2 is not the side that feeds the converter so thus no charging occuring?
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:25 AM   #14
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Thanks, all. I've had the RV plugged into 15 amps at my house for the past two weeks.
Slightly off topic here - if you are going to continue to park your unit at your home (and why not!? You may want to invest in having a electrician come out and put a dedicated line in for your rig. It is not that expensive (we had a 50amp dedicated circuit with surge/brown protection put in with over 50' of conduit + a weatherproof outdor receptacle for $250)

Now we can fully test the unit (both A/C or the fireplace), fully spin all systems up before a trip AND it makes a handy 'bungalow' for visitors
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:43 AM   #15
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Slightly off topic here - if you are going to continue to park your unit at your home (and why not!? You may want to invest in having a electrician come out and put a dedicated line in for your rig. It is not that expensive (we had a 50amp dedicated circuit with surge/brown protection put in with over 50' of conduit + a weatherproof outdor receptacle for $250)

Now we can fully test the unit (both A/C or the fireplace), fully spin all systems up before a trip AND it makes a handy 'bungalow' for visitors
I installed my 30 amp outlet for the same reasons (and I am not suggesting anyone do their own electrical work, I know what I am doing) when my daughter comes in from Denver for the holidays she has her own place to stay, tv, fridge etc.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:15 PM   #16
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I found out this past season that the water level in the batteries will "cook" out with the rig constantly plugged into any electrical source, whether 15A or 50A. Check the water level in the batteries!
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:44 PM   #17
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Here is another thought, the alarm itself could be going bad, they say they need to be replaced every 5 years. On the front cover there is a blinking code which should tell you if low voltage or bad detector. Just another thought.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Batts-toy View Post
Herk, Here is a question since I am not familiar with 50 amp service (assuming he has 50) if you connect 15 amp cord (115 volt) using an adapter is it possible the power is only supplying one half of the circuits in the MH and that 1/2 is not the side that feeds the converter so thus no charging occuring?
I am not sure, but I think most commercial adapters power both legs from the single phase. Since both legs are 110 this is OK. Very seldom are actual 220 volt appliances installed in an RV.

Never had a 50 amp camper so I don't know for sure.
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Old 11-26-2013, 03:09 PM   #19
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All of my outlets work when pluggged in to 15 amp sat home. This includes fridge and battery charger.

My box is labeled 120/240 but there is no way I am going to test this.
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Old 11-26-2013, 03:43 PM   #20
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All of my outlets work when pluggged in to 15 amp sat home. This includes fridge and battery charger.

My box is labeled 120/240 but there is no way I am going to test this.
If you did test it you would find the system has 2 legs (hot wires) plus ground wire(s) that when tested seperately are 110 volts each, the way you arrive at 220 (240) is you have 2 breakers one from each of the 110v circuits. If you look at the breaker to any 220 (240) appliance in your home or RV you will find a double breaker which in effect sends 2 sources of 110v current to the appliance (2 phases).
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