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Old 10-14-2014, 06:28 PM   #1
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Main Door Cylinder Bracket

I have a 2010 Georgetown 350TS. Wind caught door and now cylinder bracket is loose and bent. Not much metal to hold rivets and bracket. Any ideas on fixing or just leaving the cylinder off?
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:41 PM   #2
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I had the same problem. I took off the cylinder temporarily and drilled out the rivets and took out the screws then removed the bracket and hammered it back into shape. I then painted black and reinstalled using longer rivets and longer screws. It has been holding all season. I've decided to wait until it fails again before coming up with a better design.


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Old 10-14-2014, 06:44 PM   #3
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garytenorsinger - You could consider taking a piece of aluminum plate, cutting it large enough to cover the existing bracket holes plus a little around the edges so you have a firm base to anchor the plate into new holes. Then attach the door cylinder bracket to the aluminum plate. If easier you can do in reverse order, namely attach cylinder bracket to the aluminum plate with small bolts and nuts, then attach the aluminum plate to the door. On my Georgetown XL when the awning is extended, the cylinder keeps the door from slamming into the awning rail. My XL is a 2014 so your setup may be appreciably different negating the usefulness of my suggestion. Good luck!
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:45 PM   #4
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I forgot to mention this was the second time. So, metal is real flimsy and holes are wore out.
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Old 10-15-2014, 05:46 PM   #5
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Mine is a 2013. 378xl bolts don't pull out it just bends the brackets over backwards and pops cylinder off need a chain and spring like a house storme door


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Old 10-15-2014, 08:26 PM   #6
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I fixed mine with a much bigger rivet. So far its held also thought of removing the gas strut and using it like that.
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:18 PM   #7
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I've had the same problem with the door cylinder bracket (on a 2011 360DS). I'm on my second repair. In the first repair attempt I riveted a line of thin sheet metal around the circumference of the edge of the door under the bracket to reinforce the bracket's attachment point. In a few months of use I noticed that the stress on the corner of the door was warping the door and that the constant bending was breaking the metal rim of the door. In the latest repair, I riveted a triangular sheet of aluminum to the door rim on the inside of the door bridging the entire corner of the door 6 inches down each edge. This repair seems to be doing the job. The design of the door cylinder assembly is not good. However, I'm at loss on how to devise a better mechanism. Replacing the door or reinforcing the entire upper portion of the door may be the only lasting solution. Wind catching the door is a continuing hazard.
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjohnso3a View Post
I've had the same problem with the door cylinder bracket (on a 2011 360DS). I'm on my second repair. In the first repair attempt I riveted a line of thin sheet metal around the circumference of the edge of the door under the bracket to reinforce the bracket's attachment point. In a few months of use I noticed that the stress on the corner of the door was warping the door and that the constant bending was breaking the metal rim of the door. In the latest repair, I riveted a triangular sheet of aluminum to the door rim on the inside of the door bridging the entire corner of the door 6 inches down each edge. This repair seems to be doing the job. The design of the door cylinder assembly is not good. However, I'm at loss on how to devise a better mechanism. Replacing the door or reinforcing the entire upper portion of the door may be the only lasting solution. Wind catching the door is a continuing hazard.

Can you post some pictures of the repair? I'm sure mine will break again! Thanks.


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Old 10-17-2014, 11:17 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by CA Fisherman View Post
garytenorsinger - You could consider taking a piece of aluminum plate, cutting it large enough to cover the existing bracket holes plus a little around the edges so you have a firm base to anchor the plate into new holes. Then attach the door cylinder bracket to the aluminum plate. If easier you can do in reverse order, namely attach cylinder bracket to the aluminum plate with small bolts and nuts, then attach the aluminum plate to the door. On my Georgetown XL when the awning is extended, the cylinder keeps the door from slamming into the awning rail. My XL is a 2014 so your setup may be appreciably different negating the usefulness of my suggestion. Good luck!
This is what I did also.
Removed the bracket and re-bend to as close to original shape as possible.
I then found a metal galvanized strap at Home Depot that was the thickness of the door. I think like 1 1/4" wide x 12" long. I cut and bent to shape of door top which is arched and pop riveted in place with large rivets. Notice the holes already in plate helped a great deal. Remounted the bracket and it has been working well for awhile now.
I painted it white before mounting.
I have no pictures but will take some soon.

Like this one for $2.83
Simpson Strong-Tie HRS12 12-Gauge 12 in. Heavy Strap Tie-HRS12 at The Home Depot
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:46 PM   #10
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RE:Can you post some pictures of the repair? I'm sure mine will brea...

The RV is at the dealer for work. I will post pictures when it's back home next week.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:47 PM   #11
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Here are my pictures using the bracket above to reinforce the top of the door structure so it won't come loose again.

Any questions just ask
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:52 PM   #12
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You can get a new gas strut, if it is bent. The brackets themselves will need to be returned to their original shape. I plan on putting a backer plate on the inside, and thru bolting the bracket that is mounted on the door, with stainless screws, and nylock nuts. Mine is brandie new, and the screws have already worked loose in the door.

The pics above show a really neat repair. :^)
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:14 PM   #13
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Here's several pictures of my door repair. Note that the not only was cylinder bracket bent and required re-bending; but the white metal around the circumference of the door was cracking under the bracket. (http://www.evernote.com/l/AR7i14OK6I...53mKfUJoeAUUw/)
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:26 PM   #14
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I was just looking at a new 2015 Georgetown yesterday at a local dealer and took these pictures of how they are now installing the at the bottom of the door.
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:24 AM   #15
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That is the way my 2014 is....actually I guess you can say they fixed it right after I complained that the way it was pinned before it would swing open and catch my awning as it rolled out and back. I was told at the dealer that I should just hold the door out of the way when putting out or retracting my awning until going to a trade show and learning that they fed me a line of bull.

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Old 12-18-2014, 08:45 PM   #16
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Mine has also been caught in wind a bent. I have rebuilt twice, I would like to use a fixed arm but not sure where it would work.


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Old 12-20-2014, 11:53 AM   #17
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Thanks for all the ideas folks. The actual bracket on ours is not bent but coming off the door so it looks like Iggy has the solution for our woes! It's off to Home Depot.
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:14 PM   #18
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Iggy,

I've got the same problem. What kind of rivets, steel or alum, and what size, if you recall? Thanks so much.

SAM
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