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Old 01-03-2012, 02:19 PM   #11
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Had (have) the same problem with our 2011 378, noticed that the door appeared to be twiked as it would open when the until was off it's jacks. I did a recalibration of the untils leveling system and what do you know the door works smoothly now, like it should. Note, we have had to recalibrate the units level 4 times in the past year, like the "black box" looses it level occassionally.
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:17 PM   #12
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I completly agree that it has to do with jacks and leveling, when our 2011 378 is parked in storage(no jacks down) and also when we are traveling stopped to eat and/or getting gas etc the door works fine it only jams when we are camped.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:49 PM   #13
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We also have a new 378 GT and have had the same problem with the door. It was almost impossible to open or close. Lucky for me I used petroleum jelly on the latches and worked with it for a while. Now it opens and closes with no problem.

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Old 01-05-2012, 10:44 PM   #14
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Got mine back from the dealer, they adjusted it AGAIN and said it was all they could do. When using it later on a trip, the unlocked lock acted as if were locked!! After locking and unlocking it several times, it opened. This was the entry lock, not the deadbolt. Called the dealer and they are going to get FR to replace the lock. Hope this works, warranty runs out it February!! Until then, I make sure a sliding window is unlocked in case I have to crawl in and get at it from the inside. Shouldn't have to do this on a new coach.

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Old 01-09-2012, 10:07 PM   #15
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Temperature seems to affect the door more than anything.

The hole in the door frame and striker plate are too high.

I canít adjust the striker plate any lower.

Iíll get to work on it in Feb.

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Old 01-10-2012, 06:40 AM   #16
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Does your door have a pressure tube closure?

If so, the pressure might be too high for the door hinges.
After MANY trips to my "so called" dealer to fix the binding (racked from the top) door in my frame, I realized the pressure closer was the CAUSE. I removed it and "straightened" the bent hinges; now everything works as advertised.
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:29 PM   #17
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Yes, my door has a pressure closer, and I will check it when I pick my MH up at the dealer's on Friday. Good point, appreciate it.

Thanks, Forrest
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:32 PM   #18
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I know this is an old thread, but I have been having the same problem on my '07 Freelander. I have to push in on the door while pulling the the latch open on the main door. I can't do it one-handed, and my wife can't do it at all without breaking fingernails. I thought before I started lubing everything up I'd check these forums - nice to see some similar issues (and fixes). Hadn't thought of smoothing out the striker plate.
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:54 AM   #19
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I did eventually solve this. Sorry I forgot to post about it.

In desperation I ordered a new door latch. The new one went right in and the problem was gone. Now my daughter can open the door by herself.

This is the one I ordered. It was a direct replacement. Just bolted right in, no modifications needed. Whole thing took about 20 minutes.
TriMark 60-650 Entry Door Lock with Dead Bolt
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:42 AM   #20
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Thanks for the update, jsutherl. That new unit looks like just the ticket. For $100, that'll be my plan B. Plan A is an assortment of lubes, sandpaper, and a screwdriver. I'd like to try the cheap fix first.
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