Main Door Problems

jsutherl · 11-30-2011, 06:02 PM

I have a problem with the main door on my 2008 350DS. How to describe it?

If you grab the door handle and pull the door WILL NOT open. I'm a fairly strong guy and it doesn't matter how hard you pull. To open the door you have to pull out on the handle while pushing in on the handle with your thumb at the same time. That sounds strange but really what I'm saying is that to get the door latch to retract you have to push in on the door itself, while pulling on the handle to retract the latch.

I've tried adjusting the door jam plate and I've tried several different kinds of lube. By the way, the latch works smooth and easy when the door is open.

If look at the door edge on you can see that it's bowed outward where the hinge is. If you put a long strait edge along the inside of the door the center section of the door where the hinge is is about 3/4" out of plumb.

It was like this when I got it. It's a nice security feature because even when the door is unlocked or somebody has the key they still can't get in. But it's also impossible for my ten year old or visiting friends to open the door, which is a constant annoyance.

Anyone have any thoughts as to what I might do about this? I keep thinking of some kind of jig with strait edges and clamps to bend the door back into shape but so far I haven't figured it out. Maybe steel L-iron? Or bar stock maybe?

we2lovecamping · 11-30-2011, 06:36 PM

We have problems with our 2011 378, opening from the inside it is very hard almost like it drags across or hang on door jam, at first I thought we just had one of the locks locked nut that's not the problem.

10Isola · 11-30-2011, 11:28 PM

I too am having problems with my 320ds 2011 door sticking. Have not taken the time to trouble shoot, but the door or jam is out of kilter. It was not like this when I purchased it.

fbconsults · 12-03-2011, 12:15 AM

My 2011 378 has the dragging problem when opening. I have had it adjusted at the dealer twice, they say that is all they can do. It goes back in next week for other work, and I will have them check it again. It is so high, even when standing on the steps my wife 4'11", has trouble opening it.

Forrest

alsimmon11 · 12-03-2011, 10:56 AM

We have the same problem with our 2010 Georgetown 378. I have to push hard on the door to open from the inside and it has to be slammed to close. Took it to the dealer for some work and was told they could not do anything to the door. Sounds like a good question for Forest River.

bend302 · 12-03-2011, 12:45 PM

We had a serious problem with our '05 359ts door while in Michigan last summer. Called a locksmith and he lubed everything and adjusted the striker plate on the door jamb. Much better now.

Bill

jojo bamboo · 12-03-2011, 03:15 PM

Another example of the workmanship
in these $100,000 ++ machines.
I always think they have part time
high school kids slaping these high priced
motorhomes together.
I guess that keeps the profit margin high.

cfsoistman · 12-05-2011, 01:20 PM

Had the same issue with our 2007. I removed the striker plate and filed the opening that the latch catches on. I rounded it slightly because the flat part that is pressed on the latch just doesn't let it slide unless you push in while opening. Is it perfect? pretty close, it's easier to open now, much better than originally from FR.

norwood12800 · 01-03-2012, 12:37 PM

Just got a 2012 GT378TS & have the same problem with the door

jsutherl · 01-03-2012, 01:14 PM

I spent some time and got the door strait again with a large piece of angle iron, some wood for spacing and some clamps. No joy, it made no difference.

Then I filed the strike plate until it was smooth where the door latch catches. No joy there either.

JimF · 01-03-2012, 02:19 PM

Had (have) the same problem with our 2011 378, noticed that the door appeared to be twiked as it would open when the until was off it's jacks. I did a recalibration of the untils leveling system and what do you know the door works smoothly now, like it should. Note, we have had to recalibrate the units level 4 times in the past year, like the "black box" looses it level occassionally.

we2lovecamping · 01-03-2012, 08:17 PM

I completly agree that it has to do with jacks and leveling, when our 2011 378 is parked in storage(no jacks down) and also when we are traveling stopped to eat and/or getting gas etc the door works fine it only jams when we are camped.

georgetownpa · 01-03-2012, 10:49 PM

We also have a new 378 GT and have had the same problem with the door. It was almost impossible to open or close. Lucky for me I used petroleum jelly on the latches and worked with it for a while. Now it opens and closes with no problem.

georgetownpa

fbconsults · 01-05-2012, 10:44 PM

Got mine back from the dealer, they adjusted it AGAIN and said it was all they could do. When using it later on a trip, the unlocked lock acted as if were locked!! After locking and unlocking it several times, it opened. This was the entry lock, not the deadbolt. Called the dealer and they are going to get FR to replace the lock. Hope this works, warranty runs out it February!! Until then, I make sure a sliding window is unlocked in case I have to crawl in and get at it from the inside. Shouldn't have to do this on a new coach.

Happy Trails, Forrest

abjb · 01-09-2012, 10:07 PM

Subscribing

Temperature seems to affect the door more than anything.

The hole in the door frame and striker plate are too high.

I can’t adjust the striker plate any lower.

I’ll get to work on it in Feb.

ab

**Herk7769** · 01-10-2012, 06:40 AM

Does your door have a pressure tube closure?

If so, the pressure might be too high for the door hinges.
After MANY trips to my "so called" dealer to fix the binding (racked from the top) door in my frame, I realized the pressure closer was the CAUSE. I removed it and "straightened" the bent hinges; now everything works as advertised.

fbconsults · 01-10-2012, 10:29 PM

Yes, my door has a pressure closer, and I will check it when I pick my MH up at the dealer's on Friday. Good point, appreciate it.

Thanks, Forrest

Spikedog · 06-05-2013, 05:32 PM

I know this is an old thread, but I have been having the same problem on my '07 Freelander. I have to push in on the door while pulling the the latch open on the main door. I can't do it one-handed, and my wife can't do it at all without breaking fingernails. I thought before I started lubing everything up I'd check these forums - nice to see some similar issues (and fixes). Hadn't thought of smoothing out the striker plate.

jsutherl · 06-06-2013, 01:54 AM

I did eventually solve this. Sorry I forgot to post about it.

In desperation I ordered a new door latch. The new one went right in and the problem was gone. Now my daughter can open the door by herself.

This is the one I ordered. It was a direct replacement. Just bolted right in, no modifications needed. Whole thing took about 20 minutes.
TriMark 60-650 Entry Door Lock with Dead Bolt

Spikedog · 06-06-2013, 08:42 AM

Thanks for the update, jsutherl. That new unit looks like just the ticket. For $100, that'll be my plan B. Plan A is an assortment of lubes, sandpaper, and a screwdriver. I'd like to try the cheap fix first.

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