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Old 10-20-2014, 10:04 AM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 91
Manual Leveling

Need some help as to the best way to manual level. Auto seems to lift the front wheels too much or over extends the jacks. TIA

2010 373DS
Master Tow with 2008 Nissan Altima
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:55 AM   #2
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Location: Desert SW - Arizona
Posts: 5,891
I have my engine running and if possible plugged into shore power.
This will insure good power to controls and pump motor.

What I do is try to setup at a campground with the front a little high.
Side to side hopefully close to level. I have two cheap bubble levels on the console that shows me both right to left as well as front to back.
These are general level indicators as I have a large level I use on the floor in the center of the rig to finalize.
I then set parking brake and setup in manual mode on panel.
I then manually raise the front until my bubble level shows close to level front to back and stop.
I then raise the two rear stabilizers until they are just raising the rear.

Now I also use my bathroom door to tell if I'm level or not. If it swings forward my front is low. If it swings towards the rear the back end is low. If it stays stationary in the mid open position all is good.

After this is done I then put out my slides.

Hope this gives you some idea how other do it.

2012 Georgetown XL - 378TS 49,000 miles
(2013 - 98 days) (2014 - 117 days) (2015 - 67 days) (2016 - 115 days)
USAF Retired - MSgt

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Old 10-20-2014, 10:57 AM   #3
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Location: Texas
Posts: 609
best way it to get a small level and place it on the kitchen sick. First you want to level from front to back. Then from side to side.
Push the power button and set the parking break. Push the manual button till it lights up. Then use the inside arrows first I put back jacks down till I feel the motorhome lift up and they are firm on the ground. Then I lift the front till the level says. Its ok to be a little off. Then change the level to side to side and repeat process.
This is the only way I level anymore I can do it faster than the auto. When you done turn off the power button.
Hopes this helps.
Andrew & Donna Reyes
2012 Georgetown 378XL
2015 Ford Taurus
Our Baby Dachshund
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:43 PM   #4
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 91
Thanks will practice in the backyard.
2010 373DS
Master Tow with 2008 Nissan Altima
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:59 PM   #5
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Posts: 339
I like to check with my long floor level before I start. This tells me where I am low before I begin. I then lower the low point(s) first and usually get level immediately. I then lower the remaining jacks until they just slightly "bump" ground. I then do a quick recheck of side to side and front to back and make an adjustment if necessary. Then slide the slides. I have recalibrated the auto set point several times but it just isn't reliable and too often lifts the front wheels too high.
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:45 PM   #6
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 83
The system for us is to utilize the bathroom door as the primary indicator for overall level-ness~
Works every time...tired of front tires going skyward!
George...2008 FR 374TS
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:45 AM   #7
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Posts: 1,809
I utilized all the above mentioned resources to level my coach to my satisfaction and then secured a small triangle dual vile level (corresponding to the duh, left/right fore/aft axis) to the left console next to the leveler control panel with a couple drops of silicone and scribed new level hash marks on the viles with permanent marker for the new level references. This has made manual levelling a piece of cake. As for the auto level I ran the program procedure twice (except for re-levelling the coach) consecutively to fine tune the system and that has greatly enhanced the auto function. I will use the manual function most often if camping site is not reasonably level.
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Old 01-04-2015, 12:21 PM   #8
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Posts: 147
We purchased an EZ Level from camping world. Has 4 legs and lights to indicate level. We put it on the floor just about anywhere and manual level to it. Green lights your level, then I check the bathroom door for swing and bump the left or right side to get it stable. Alway run the jacks down in front till they touch the ground then the left till it touches then right, then do the level to the lights. We usually wind up with all 4 wheels on the ground unless the site is really off. On auto level the front tires would be in the air as it runs the rear jacks down to almost max height then front which has to compensate for the rear jack height. A poor auto level for sure. We used the carpenter level system for a while, what a general pain in the a**, the EZ Level really works nicely and it's quick with no guess work.

As a note, from the manual on the unit, unless you have a diesel rig, the jacks have to be lowered and adjusted with the engine running. Always plug in the unit or run the generator when running the slides, never do it on house battery alone.

The question always comes up on how level the unit has to be so that the refer works properly, from an RV Expert with Goodsam, if your comfortable in the rig the refer is comfortable. The new rigs are not near as particular as the older rigs were.
JimF, CWO, US Army Ret, 100% DAV
2011 Georgetown 378TS
2008 Dodge Caliber Toad
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:35 PM   #9
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Merritt Island Fl.
Posts: 168
I have the 1.99 bubble levels purchased at Walmart. Extend rear jacks till they touch,then the front ones. After that just level to the bubbles. Never fails.
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Old 01-04-2015, 04:47 PM   #10
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Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
I use Auto and it's perfect every time!

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