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Old 01-08-2011, 02:26 PM   #21
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Excellent job wiring it up too. Very neat installation and correctly wired (House + to one battery and house - to the last one in the bank).
I don't know if you can see it in the picture but all the connections are shiny too. I put a wire brush on the cordless drill and cleaned each connection (including the frame) before I attached it.

Unfortunately where the positive lead goes into "battery control center" that lug is so corroded I was afraid to even try to get the nut off the stud. It shows almost no resistance with the VOM so hopefully it'll be good for now.

I'll probably have to rebuild or replace that battery control center thing. I've been looking around on-line but so far I haven't found a manual for it or anywhere to buy a new one.

It's a "battery control center" model "SDC-107A" made by "RV custom products"

I sure wish they'd have used stainless steel or zink coated bolts on that thing.
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:43 PM   #22
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Lou thank you, Ok let me see if I have this right. 1st can I keep the batteries in their present location or should I move them? 2nd could I remove the one cable from the 30 amp breaker and run it to the positive post on the other battery and also the same with the negative and then to chassis ground. Or should I move the battery next to each other, hook the positive to positive and than to the disconnect switch, and the same with the negative side,than to ground. All I would have to do is plug the vent for the one side of the cargo bay and hook the two in one vent if I move the batteries.
Well, it is entirely up to you. You could actually do nothing and you will certainly be safe. It just might be more expensive in the long run if you plan on keeping that camper for a while.

You could also measure your wires and make sure they are the same length so the resistances are the same. Not having a photo of how your batteries are actually wired makes that recommendation a bit hard.

Here is a photo I took of my set up before I was finished. I made a new double battery box out of kitchen sink tubs. That way the are both on the ame side, but a box on each side will also work as long as the red cables and black cables are the same length.

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Old 01-08-2011, 04:48 PM   #23
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It's a "battery control center" model "SDC-107A" made by "RV custom products" I sure wish they'd have used stainless steel or zink coated bolts on that thing.
Wow you are right. Some penetrating oil should loosten the bolts up though. They most likely look worse than they are. I wonder if its just a fuse or current limiter in there? Maybe they also have a shunt for an "in coach" ammeter. You could start working on the screws that hold the cover on and peek inside. (A photo would help someone here figure it out)

This might help:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...g/13935498.cfm

http://www.randkproducts.com/product...ttery-products

http://www.flightsystems.com/pdf/onanrvtshootgd608.pdf
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:03 PM   #24
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Lou, would it be possible for you to label the parts on your battery set up? Also a diagram of how each is wired into your system. It looks like what I would like for our unit, we plan on doing more dry camping and I do have a generator to recharge the batteries. Thank you (Our dry camping would be for 5 to 10 days mostly lights and to charge our camera and laptop)
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Old 01-08-2011, 06:05 PM   #25
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I will see what I can do with a schematic. For now:

Upper left: 2400 watt Inverter with wireless on/off switch
Upper Center: Shunt for Trimetric TM-2025 Battery monitor System
Upper right: Master Ground Buss
Center: Master Battery Switch (Off, Left, Right, Both)
Center Right: Master 12VDC Buss with OEM 30 AMP Auto-reset Breaker.
Off this buss: 30 Amp Pigtail left Main Slide
30 Amp Pigtail Right Main Slide
30 Amp Pigtail Front Landing Gear
Red OEM lead to WFCO Power Converter
The batteries are two DeKa (OEM) DC-24 75 Amp-Hour Deep Cycle
They are currently wired as I suggested. One red exact length cable from each batteries plus terminal to the switch. One black exact length cable from each batteries negative terminal to the left side of the shunt.
(The photos above were taken before I found out about the need for exact resistance across the batteries for charge equalization. The wires are now slightly different than in that old photo.)

The Space to the left of the kitchen tubs is just large enough for a 1 gallon water container of distilled water for the batteries. It also fits 2 containers that hold my battery tools like hydrometer, stainless steel mirror, safety glasses, small fire extinguisher, Nitrile gloves, and rubber water transfer bulb.

The schematic for the Trimetric is here:
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File Type: pdf TM2025-User-Manual.pdf (243.0 KB, 30 views)
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Old 01-08-2011, 06:16 PM   #26
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Thank you again, I will start getting the equipment together and when the snow melts be ready to change my system over. I hope you don't mind but as get into this more I may need a little guidance.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:03 PM   #27
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Unless you camp for extended periods in campgrounds that don't allow generators, why not just get a nice quiet Honda/Yamaha generator? We just have 1 Group 30 Trojan and a Honda EU2000i. Works wonderfully.
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:53 AM   #28
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I do have a Yamaha EF3000SeB (3500 watt Boost 3000 Watt continuous) TriFuel (Gas, Propane, LNG) generator with remote start. Most all campsites I dry camp at (I dry camp about 60 days a year) have quiet hours.




Since my wife and I are up late most nights (the kids are on the west coast) and we use the computer, TV, lights and heater after dark, plenty of battery power is important to us. (Your needs may differ).

During the day of course we run the Yamaha to charge up the batteries and run the AC, coffee maker, electric griddle, and microwave.
We do like our comforts.
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:04 PM   #29
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I do have a Yamaha EF3000SeB
Wow, so cool that thing has a remote, what a great idea!
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:52 PM   #30
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I love it! Since it sits in the bed of the pickup, when quiet hours end at 0730 I can just push the button while still in my jammies and start the coffee maker.
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