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Old 10-06-2012, 09:07 PM   #11
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The first thing I did was send John Armsrong and email about the present leaks and he replied with recieved email and problems noted. Hopefully this streamlines repair or ordering from FR.
Iggy,

Sounds like a government answer. The government is a little slicker, the answer comes back, "Noted and taken under asvisment." That means if and when I get around to it, I might or might not do something about it. Send a friendly note every now and then to keep their memory refreshed.

Regards,
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:24 PM   #12
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Iggy,

Sounds like a government answer. The government is a little slicker, the answer comes back, "Noted and taken under asvisment." That means if and when I get around to it, I might or might not do something about it. Send a friendly note every now and then to keep their memory refreshed.

Regards,
Not sure what you mean. John Armstrong has been taking care of me ever step of the way. This was it is duly noted in the system so if I go over 1 year and still have problems I have at least a leg to stand on to get things further repaired.

Why do so many people try to read messages here and try and read more into it than meets the eye.

Just like someone couldn't decide the best way to get their rig level with a bubble level. 50 people had 50 different way because they couln't decide the definition of level was.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:08 PM   #13
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I developed a operating technique, not fix but I've used it all year without any tank overflow.
To begin with I noted how much resevoir is left well all jacks and slides are out. I then determined I could easily run wilh 1 1/2" low on tank level for normal level. When the slides come in and the jacks retract there's quite an oil flow back to the tank. I always retract the jacks first cause its 4 pistons and the tank needs max room to prevent overflow. Then when you bring in slides one at a time there's less turbulence and oil doesn't overcome the air vent/fill cap. when everything is in you have the 1 1/2" resevoir margin. Lippert tells everyone to run it full, thats optional casuse the dipstick shows it lower. Ever since I've adopted this method, I've had no overflow. I did like everyone else in the beginning. You can piture a full tank with all four jacks dumping in their at the end of their stroke. I also carry a gallon of the ATF case I get low, that hasn't happened though. Pic shows tank at lowest level, cap for tank. Note the center opening of the cap, oil/air rushes for this opening as oil returns. At the top is a saturated sponge. Oil is carried with the air to the sponge. Too much oil cannot drain back will penetrate the sponge and carryover. With an air gap, oil will not carry over with the air. Mine looks clean, huh?
Oh BTW here's a pic of the tailpipe on a Lippert pump, it extends nearly to the bottom of the casing.
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:39 PM   #14
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I have a 2010 Georgetown 378 and just noticed fluid on ground below hydraulic tank, manifold and motor. Turns out fluid leaking out end of motor. Lip pert says to replace it. Made in China junk!
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:02 PM   #15
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I have a 2010 Georgetown 378 and just noticed fluid on ground below hydraulic tank, manifold and motor. Turns out fluid leaking out end of motor. Lip pert says to replace it. Made in China junk!
Lippert always says to replace the pump, turns out in the cousin RV forum some guy didn't want to spend the $1350 the pump costs. Instead he carefully dissembled it with photos and replaced the seal which is a common lip seal for like $8 bucks! Search the blue forum for Lippert pump repair, I found it in the Monaco area. The oil will eventually cause the motor to overheat and burn. Even if your not comfortable with it a mechanic with the directions can do it in half a day. Thats where the pic I posted the other day came from
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:02 PM   #16
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Update Nov 2 2012

Update Nov 2 2012
As you may have read I had many leaks since I have owner my Georgetown GT 378TS April 15, 2012

I dropped off my MH Oct 8 and Lippert promised to replace all the lines.
My dealer McMahons RV asked me to help streamline the repairs by contacting Lippert which I did and they said they will expidite delivery to my dealer a full set of line. Both Orange and Black.
It is now Nov 2 almost a month in the shop and they said maybe it will be finished today. We will see. The problem I have is with McMahons RV in Mesa dragging their feet and not Forest River nor Lippert..

I will let you know more in a few days

Iggy
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:38 PM   #17
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Update Nov 2 2012
As you may have read I had many leaks since I have owner my Georgetown GT 378TS April 15, 2012

I dropped off my MH Oct 8 and Lippert promised to replace all the lines.
My dealer McMahons RV asked me to help streamline the repairs by contacting Lippert which I did and they said they will expidite delivery to my dealer a full set of line. Both Orange and Black.
It is now Nov 2 almost a month in the shop and they said maybe it will be finished today. We will see. The problem I have is with McMahons RV in Mesa dragging their feet and not Forest River nor Lippert..

I will let you know more in a few days

Iggy
Iggy I gotta wonder if your hyd system is operating with excessive pressure. I wonder if your dealer can learn from Lippert what is the max operating pressure, how can you monitor it (at least in shop) and how if possible can you adjust it. Its operating using a gear pump, theoretically the top pressure is infinity if there is no flow. Hoses then jacks then hoses all failing is crazy, some ting isn't right. Good luck.

Vince
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:17 PM   #18
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Update Nov 3, 2011

Update Nov 3, 2011

Well dealer called and told me they replaced all the lines in my Georgetown.
Now the pump runs and nothing happens.
Seems no fluid is being pumped out into the lines.
So Monday they plan on calling Lippert to see what is next.
Hopefully a new pump and valve assembly.
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:53 PM   #19
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Update Nov 3, 2011

Well dealer called and told me they replaced all the lines in my Georgetown.
Now the pump runs and nothing happens.
Seems no fluid is being pumped out into the lines.
So Monday they plan on calling Lippert to see what is next.
Hopefully a new pump and valve assembly.
Maybe this is helpful, Another overhauled his pump......

"I had to run mine 6 – 8 times for 20 seconds, each time, to get the slides to start moving. I was concerned after about the fourth time and no movement, but I kept at it and once the pump got primed all was normal. Run it once for 20 seconds, wait 2 minutes to cool, the run it for another 20 seconds. Now wait 15 minutes for cool down and repeat above."
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:07 PM   #20
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Iggy, when I first got my MH, the pump was leaking and they had to replace it. They had to build the pump, because the ones already built were for assembly lines. They sent the wrong one first time, finally the second one worked and has been ok since. Of course, it still leaks from the cap, "as designed". LOL.

Good luck, Forrest
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