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Old 09-30-2012, 08:30 PM   #1
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More Hydralic leaks in 2012 378TS

Just wanted to keep this fresh on everyones minds.

After returning from a short trip to the FROG Rally in Tucson I now have 2 more hydralic leaks. One on my front right leveler and one one left rear leveler. Not sure if it is the lines or the actual leveler piston itself.
I just sent an email to John Armstrong and Amy just to give them a heads up.

I'm really losing my patience with recurring hyrdralic leaks and the my lost of use and extra expense each time I have to drive it to my dealer 50 miles away.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:21 AM   #2
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Iggy..keep us informed....so far just the orange hose replacement on ours.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:18 AM   #3
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Yes, I'de like to hear how this turns out too
My 2007 373 has orange hoses that are not
leaking but are wet on the outside
I've had to add about 1 quart of fluid in 4 years
so theres somthing not quit right.
I expect it to brakedown when i'm far from any repair station
......how do you get them back up when that happens??
Can i use the jack fron my jeep and push/jack the leg up?
and then tie it off?

Thanks jojo bamboo
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:34 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jojo bamboo View Post
Yes, I'de like to hear how this turns out too
My 2007 373 has orange hoses that are not
leaking but are wet on the outside
I've had to add about 1 quart of fluid in 4 years
so theres somthing not quit right.
I expect it to brakedown when i'm far from any repair station
......how do you get them back up when that happens??
Can i use the jack fron my jeep and push/jack the leg up?
and then tie it off?

Thanks jojo bamboo

If your hoses are wet on the outside this is the start of a failure.
The fluid is leaking between the inner and outter layers of the hose. Usuallythis is cause by the closest fitting leaking the fluid.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:30 PM   #5
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The first thing I did was send John Armsrong and email about the present leaks and he replied with recieved email and problems noted. Hopefully this streamlines repair or ordering from FR.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:57 PM   #6
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I have had all those problems and more, but they are fixed now, and my coach is out of warranty.

The only thing left is the reservoir cap, whiich still leaks every time you operated the slides or jacks. My dealer (Mike Thompson RV in Colton, CA) says that Lippert says there is no fix for it. That is a sad state of affairs!

Forrest
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by fbconsults View Post
I have had all those problems and more, but they are fixed now, and my coach is out of warranty.

The only thing left is the reservoir cap, whiich still leaks every time you operated the slides or jacks. My dealer (Mike Thompson RV in Colton, CA) says that Lippert says there is no fix for it. That is a sad state of affairs!

Forrest
That's pretty bad when the manufacturer of the reservoir says there's no fix. Well maybe they should get out of the hydraulic pump, levelers and slideout business. They built the stupid thing wrong. All they need to do is build a better mould for the tank with a taller collar where the cap screws on. Hard to believe there's not a simple solution on their part.
Fortunately I've only had one hydraulic issue where the threaded part of the leveler leaked a little fluid. After disconnecting the hoses I was able to get the top tighter and it hasn't leaked since. It's been over 5 years.
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbconsults View Post
I have had all those problems and more, but they are fixed now, and my coach is out of warranty.

The only thing left is the reservoir cap, whiich still leaks every time you operated the slides or jacks. My dealer (Mike Thompson RV in Colton, CA) says that Lippert says there is no fix for it. That is a sad state of affairs!

Forrest
My question is when all the slides are in and the levelers up how high is the fluid in the tank?

What have you read on the proper level?

I have read one statement that said no higher than the label on the side with the serial number.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbconsults View Post
I have had all those problems and more, but they are fixed now, and my coach is out of warranty.

The only thing left is the reservoir cap, whiich still leaks every time you operated the slides or jacks. My dealer (Mike Thompson RV in Colton, CA) says that Lippert says there is no fix for it. That is a sad state of affairs!

Forrest
I developed a operating technique, not fix but I've used it all year without any tank overflow.
To begin with I noted how much resevoir is left well all jacks and slides are out. I then determined I could easily run wilh 1 1/2" low on tank level for normal level. When the slides come in and the jacks retract there's quite an oil flow back to the tank. I always retract the jacks first cause its 4 pistons and the tank needs max room to prevent overflow. Then when you bring in slides one at a time there's less turbulence and oil doesn't overcome the air vent/fill cap. when everything is in you have the 1 1/2" resevoir margin. Lippert tells everyone to run it full, thats optional casuse the dipstick shows it lower. Ever since I've adopted this method, I've had no overflow. I did like everyone else in the beginning. You can piture a full tank with all four jacks dumping in their at the end of their stroke. I also carry a gallon of the ATF case I get low, that hasn't happened though. Pic shows tank at lowest level, cap for tank. Note the center opening of the cap, oil/air rushes for this opening as oil returns. At the top is a saturated sponge. Oil is carried with the air to the sponge. Too much oil cannot drain back will penetrate the sponge and carryover. With an air gap, oil will not carry over with the air. Mine looks clean, huh?
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:00 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
I developed a operating technique, not fix but I've used it all year without any tank overflow.
To begin with I noted how much resevoir is left well all jacks and slides are out. I then determined I could easily run wilh 1 1/2" low on tank level for normal level. When the slides come in and the jacks retract there's quite an oil flow back to the tank. I always retract the jacks first cause its 4 pistons and the tank needs max room to prevent overflow. Then when you bring in slides one at a time there's less turbulence and oil doesn't overcome the air vent/fill cap. when everything is in you have the 1 1/2" resevoir margin. Lippert tells everyone to run it full, thats optional casuse the dipstick shows it lower. Ever since I've adopted this method, I've had no overflow. I did like everyone else in the beginning. You can piture a full tank with all four jacks dumping in their at the end of their stroke. I also carry a gallon of the ATF case I get low, that hasn't happened though. Pic shows tank at lowest level, cap for tank. Note the center opening of the cap, oil/air rushes for this opening as oil returns. At the top is a saturated sponge. Oil is carried with the air to the sponge. Too much oil cannot drain back will penetrate the sponge and carryover. With an air gap, oil will not carry over with the air. Mine looks clean, huh?


Great discription VinceU.
That is basically how I have done it and we all have the same caps.
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