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Old 05-21-2017, 02:40 PM   #1
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My Georgetown XL Trip Updates

Hello all friends,

We left Willis, TX on May 5th for our 2 months tour to the West. So far, we have been traveled for 16 days and about 2014 miles, currently, we are stopping at the Desert Hot Spring area where the temperature is around 101 degree. Both of the air conditioning units, the 15K in the front and the 13K in the back of the coach are cranking at full speed, non-stop to keep us cool and the thermometer could not get anywhere lower than 80 degrees inside the coach. Compare to the outside temperature, plus the air constantly circulated, the 80 degree inside seems very cool anyway. Lesson learned here is I need to find some sort of cover for the air conditioning units to keep them from the direct sun, by doing that, it would make the system provides enough cooling to lower the inside temperature.

For the past 16 days, we drove through I-10 of Texas between Houston to El Paso. We went up to the VLA (Very Large Array) in New Mexico, then came back down to Tucson then I-10 again and headed toward Desert Hot Spring where we are currently stopping here for 4 nights (2 more nights left here). We will be traveling to Corona, California for 10 days then go up to Santa Paula, then head toward Page, AZ then Silverton, CO before head back down to New Mexico again toward Taos, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque, then Wichita Falls, then back to Willis by end of June.

Seems like we picked the wrong time to travel to the West since the temperature is way up there, but we learned quite a few thing along the way.

We are using an average of 4 to 5 KW of electricity per day which surprised me because I thought that we should burn a lot more electric with both of the air conditioning units were running most of the day. Some nights the weather getting colder, we have to use our heat strip. We did use electric for our water heater, and gas/electric refrigerator. Even though we did not get charge for the electric, but it is fun to know the unit efficiency.

As for the chassis, we loaded up the RV at close to the maximum weight of 23,600#. The chassis is rated for 24,000#. Towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee at 4800#. That said, we burned 296 gallons of unleaded which equated out to 6.8 miles per gallon. The average cost of gas so far is about $2.19 per gallons which is better than our budget at $3.00 per gallons since we will be traveling through California and the Rocky Mountain which the gas price would be much higher than on the Southwestern part of the country.

What I do like about my 2016 Georgetown XL 352QS is the 36.5-foot long coach it has 4 slides which make the interior living space very roomy for 2 of adults. The hydraulic slides are flawlessly operated and strong. The refrigerator is LP capable which kept enough food for us after 2 weeks and still have more food to go for another few more days before we have to shop for food. Since is could be used with LP, we have no problem of keeping is freeze and cold on 3 days of our boondocking.

What I don’t like about the coach is the lacking of engine power and torque to climb hills. We did the I-25 section between EL Paso, TX to Socorro, NM then heading West on US-60. This is a very challenge section of road on our trip due to some extremely high grading and side wind. Some section of the road I could only managed to have the coach moving at 25 mph top speed. With our upgraded RoadMaster Rear Sway Bar, BlueOx Front Sway Bar, BlueOx TrueCenter Stabilizer, I still have to constantly fight with the steering to keep the coach in line and stay on the road. There are plenty of miles that were flat and minimal wind, the coach drove like a dream. Sometimes the coach behaved so well and so smooth that I accidentally hammered down to as high as 75 miles per hour without any engine racing. The RPM was at 2750 when it was at 75 miles/hour. Once I realized it (not for too long), I backed it down to 65 when it belong and the RPM should stay within 2250 to 2500 at most. This is the speed that I saved gas.

During our trip, I always drove at no more than 65 miles per hour except some accidental speed because of the smoothness of the coach drivability. On the uphill, I tried not to race the engine more than 3500 RPM regardless of the slow climbing speed. Since I drove on the 4 lanes interstate, anyone does not like to tail end were welcome to pass. Some of the steeper hills, I could feel heat came from the dog house to my accelerator foot. I have to find some way to shield that heat.

As far as the reliability of the coach, so far the coach perform flawlessly (knocked on wood), only four minor incidents that were the wiring for the water heater came off from the back of the wall control panel due to some rough part of the road that I went through. Pushed it back in, all was well. The second was the blind bracket at the dining table broke, lucky that I have extra bracket from FR and it took me 15 minutes to replace it. The third incident was the door hinge screw came off from the wood cabinet, I do not have another bigger screw to handle to worn out screw hole, so I did put a little gorilla glue to the existing screw, tapped it back in and wait for 30 minutes to dry, then it works properly. Last but not least, the wooden bedroom slide doors guide broke. I did email to Cel at FR, and he is ordering the replacement part for me. Currently, gorilla glue held it back together and it is working fine so far.

That was it. After all of the minor incidents, the drivability and the lack of power, my verdict is still strong with my coach. Yes, some folks would say that I would be more happy with the DP, and they may be right, but once the coach is parked at the campground, I felt like home, nicely appointed XL model of Georgetown that provided me the comfort of home could only found on the DP which cost me at least double or more compared to what I paid for this coach. That would be equated out to $100,000 to $150,000 of saving.

To the DP owner, I am not saying that I am doing the right thing, I am just simply saying that I did make a choice that I am happy and comfortable with (so far).

I still have 6 more weeks to go. I will report more of my finding to you all. This is my way of sharing my experience with other, especially the newbies like myself.

Thanks for all of the help that I have learned from you all before and after I bought my first coach. I still will continue to benefit from all of your experiences and hope that I could share some of my findings to others as well.
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Old 05-21-2017, 03:07 PM   #2
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Old 05-21-2017, 04:29 PM   #3
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I have at 378xl and experienced same cooling issues last year on a trip out west. Mine has a 15000 btu front and 13500 btu rear dometic installed from factory. I replaced my front 15k unit with a new 15 k brisk air II early last season as I had one of the lemons that leaked freon off due to solder joint problem. Even after installing new 15 k unit in the front around 80 is as cool as I could keep coach when in high 90s or more outside. Ive read some folks post they cool just fine with the two factory installed units however their idea of cool is a little more less critical than mine. My 378 has single pane windows and this is with the cold weather package from the factory ie heaters on tanks so Im assuming this is standard in 2013 model year. I recently installed a 13500 btu atwood air command non ducted unit where the fantastic fan was originally installed. I moved the fantastic fan back to where the vent in the shower area was located. This setup is working much better at removing steam ie condensation while showering than previously depending on the small fan in the toilet area. The atwood can be had for around 650 dollars including shipping on ebay. What a fantastic difference after adding the atwood this has made. No problem keeping coach at 72 degree settings and the front two acs now even cycle on and off in high outside temperatures with tstat set at 72-74 inside. I did some research before deciding which ac to add and went with the atwood for three reasons. They have a very good reputation for reliability, are quiet and also are only one of two units I found with 13500 capacity than can run without problems on a honda 2000 watt generator. The atwood is designed to start the fan and compressor separately to lower surge amperage when unit cycles on and off. I read Colman makes a unit that runs without problems with a honda 2000 also. I do not do a lot of dry camping at the moment but do plan on doing some in the future. Ive read many good reviews on the small 2000 watt honda as far as reliability and low fuel usage. Although I have a 5500 onan on board It definitely is not as fuel efficient as the honda. So enjoy you trip and when you return home depending on how much the heat interferes with your afternoon naps you may want to look into a small investment to add that third unit which I know from the difference I have seen since adding mine will keep you nice and cool on those hot summer days. I added the additional breaker for mine in the electric panel on the same leg as the rear ac. This allows ability to run both front ac's on generator when driving if necessary. The microwave convection is on the same leg as the 15k front unit. While hooked up to 50 amp shore service I am able to use all three a/c s while wife at the same time uses convection oven without any tripped breaker problems. Now as far as grade pulling Im a little surprised at the 25 mph performance. I have a 2013 378 and tow a 2016 ford explorer behind it. I live in southern WV and can pull very long 6 percent grades towing my explorer holding 48 mph turning 4250 to 4500 rpms. When I first traded for this unit I was fearful of rpms greater than around 3500 same as you. However after discussing this issue with many ford v10 owners Ive been assured the ford v10 is designed to run at 4500 rpm when pulling grades with no engine damage. I ran into a guy at onslow beach in nc last fall with a v10 with 95000 miles on his coach and he said he has ran his 4500 plus rpms while pulling grades while towing since buying unit new. He said he has always ran mobile 1 in both the v10 and onan since new. He changes oil in v10 every 5000 miles and generator every 150 hours and said he never has to add oil between changes. After talking to him and several other v10 owners I added the 5 star tune to avoid the 5th to 3rd downshifts and run 4250 to 4500 rpms on long grades while towing and no problems thus far. I just hit 20000 miles and unit runs strong and never add oil between changes. My Dad just turned 75 and we are leaving this friday for a 30 day excursion out west. Plan to take similar route as did with wife last year. grand canyon, yellowstone, mt rushmore but also adding durango this year. Plan to spend last few days of trip before returning home at passport america rally in Goshen in June. Have fun on your trip and dont be afraid to twist it a little tighter on long grades. Unless motor had issues while building it will stay together. Ford gives you a good 5 yr 60 k warranty. If it throws a rod at 4500 rpm better sooner than later while under warranty. Just be sure and keep all receipts on required preventive maintenance and you will be covered should something come apart. In closing I'll add Ive been told by several v10 owners the motor has a rev limiter that will not allow you to over rev the engine. I know it is hard to get used to as this is the first v10 i've owned and had the same concerns when first driving the coach. Good luck and have fun.
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by wvphil View Post
I have at 378xl and experienced same cooling issues last year on a trip out west. Mine has a 15000 btu front and 13500 btu rear dometic installed from factory. ....
Thank for your advice. Yes, I kinda hesitate to push the RPM up on the uphill. Your comment makes sense to me, I have to learn how to ignore that engine grunt. All of my vehicles including the 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I am towing with my coach that has 180,000 miles. I always use Mobile 1 synthetic from the first oil change. I did have the first oil change on my coach before I left on this trip with Mobile 1 as well when the odometer only shows 2700 miles and planning to have the oil change again when I arrive back home since I am expecting to put on between 4000 to 5000 miles on this trip.
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Old 05-22-2017, 02:01 PM   #5
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Nice write up. That is a heavy coach and it doesn't surprise me that it labors uphill. I have about the same model but only 3 slides and I would expect the same.

As far as the heat goes in the front - have you found a way to control that - that's a whole bunch of glass letting that heat in. The reason I brought it up was that we purchased a Magnadyne shade for the front this winter. So far ours is working well and we have to deal with the evening sun on the coast every weekend. As the days are only in the mid to upper 80s on the upper coast right now, it still shows considerable heat reflection than I had last summer...time will tell.

Good luck on the trip - I will be doing the WEST thing next year about this time. Can't wait - keep sending updates.
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Old 05-22-2017, 02:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by cmalberto View Post
Nice write up. That is a heavy coach and it doesn't surprise me that it labors uphill. I have about the same model but only 3 slides and I would expect the same.

As far as the heat goes in the front - have you found a way to control that - that's a whole bunch of glass letting that heat in. The reason I brought it up was that we purchased a Magnadyne shade for the front this winter. So far ours is working well and we have to deal with the evening sun on the coast every weekend. As the days are only in the mid to upper 80s on the upper coast right now, it still shows considerable heat reflection than I had last summer...time will tell.

Good luck on the trip - I will be doing the WEST thing next year about this time. Can't wait - keep sending updates.
Thank Mike, I will look into the Magnadyne shade per your advice. Have a great day!
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:18 PM   #7
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Thanks for the report - you guys are having a blast but sorry about the heat! Based on your earlier post we will be going to the Very Large Array later this year on our drive out west. The farthest west and north we will go will be near Salem, OR to enjoy the 100% solar eclipse August 21. One question, which part of hwy 60 did you find to be very challenging? We would use hwy. 60, then west of the VLA cut north on hwy. 191 in Springerville, NM. Thanks for an answer if you have time only.
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:43 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by salwolfe View Post
Thanks for the report - you guys are having a blast but sorry about the heat! Based on your earlier post we will be going to the Very Large Array later this year on our drive out west. The farthest west and north we will go will be near Salem, OR to enjoy the 100% solar eclipse August 21. One question, which part of hwy 60 did you find to be very challenging? We would use hwy. 60, then west of the VLA cut north on hwy. 191 in Springerville, NM. Thanks for an answer if you have time only.
I always have time to answer any question that I could for you as you guy always has time to answer my question when I need you. Thank again!

That said, the most challenge part of the US-60 that we went through was from Socorro, NM heading West on US-60. Just 5 miles right outside of Socorro, you will be experiencing a grade change from 4500 feet to 7000 feet then smaller grade from 7000 until it flat out to 7200 feet. The section from 4500 feet to 7000 feet elevation for about 5 miles or so it is very steep.

Note that when you go to the VLA, there are two campgrounds which are about 15 miles or so East of VLA on US-60 in the town of Magdelena, NM, but if you only stay overnight, there are few options for you.

1 - A "tourist parking" right outside the VLA where you could park there overnight. The parking is wide enough for my 36.5 foot plus the 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee flat tow. As the matter of fact, while I parked there, later at night, there was enough room for another 18 Wheeler pull beside me for 30 minutes to check on his rig then left. The whole night was very peaceful, almost no traffic between 10 pm to 6 am. This location is 2 miles West of NM-52 on US-60. The NM-52 is the road lead you to the VLA entrance. From this location, you could see the VLA which is about a mile or so from the fence line.

2 - There is also three more "state parking are" with picnic tables on US-60 which are about 10miles and 5 miles East of NM-52 that you could park there overnight too. Two on the North side of US-60 and one on the South side of US-60. Each of the parking is room enough for at least 2 to 3 long rigs.

You should not have any problem with the parking availability because there will not be that many people with RV come to visit this place (VLA).

However, in the worst case, if I am wrong about the availability of the above, there is a BLM about 15 miles West of VLA on US-60 in Datil. The person from the VLA visitor center told me that is a very nice and roomy place to boondocking your RV for $5. No hookup. Note that I did not park there.

The next morning, you should be able to drive your RV including the tow vehicle to the VLA visitor center and park right in front of their building. I did!

Hope the information would help.

Have fun and safe driving.
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:58 PM   #9
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Thanks for all of the info. I imagine our 270S Georgetown will be fine with the grade but that is a long haul. The road looks good on Google maps street views. Enjoy your trip.
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Old 05-22-2017, 05:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by wvphil View Post
I have at 378xl and experienced same cooling issues last year on a trip out west. Mine has a 15000 btu front and 13500 btu rear dometic installed from factory. I replaced my front 15k unit with a new 15 k brisk air II early last season as I had one of the lemons that leaked freon off due to solder joint problem. Even after installing new 15 k unit in the front around 80 is as cool as I could keep coach when in high 90s or more outside. Ive read some folks post they cool just fine with the two factory installed units however their idea of cool is a little more less critical than mine. My 378 has single pane windows and this is with the cold weather package from the factory ie heaters on tanks so Im assuming this is standard in 2013 model year. I recently installed a 13500 btu atwood air command non ducted unit where the fantastic fan was originally installed. I moved the fantastic fan back to where the vent in the shower area was located. This setup is working much better at removing steam ie condensation while showering than previously depending on the small fan in the toilet area. The atwood can be had for around 650 dollars including shipping on ebay. What a fantastic difference after adding the atwood this has made. No problem keeping coach at 72 degree settings and the front two acs now even cycle on and off in high outside temperatures with tstat set at 72-74 inside. I did some research before deciding which ac to add and went with the atwood for three reasons. They have a very good reputation for reliability, are quiet and also are only one of two units I found with 13500 capacity than can run without problems on a honda 2000 watt generator. The atwood is designed to start the fan and compressor separately to lower surge amperage when unit cycles on and off. I read Colman makes a unit that runs without problems with a honda 2000 also. I do not do a lot of dry camping at the moment but do plan on doing some in the future. Ive read many good reviews on the small 2000 watt honda as far as reliability and low fuel usage. Although I have a 5500 onan on board It definitely is not as fuel efficient as the honda. So enjoy you trip and when you return home depending on how much the heat interferes with your afternoon naps you may want to look into a small investment to add that third unit which I know from the difference I have seen since adding mine will keep you nice and cool on those hot summer days. I added the additional breaker for mine in the electric panel on the same leg as the rear ac. This allows ability to run both front ac's on generator when driving if necessary. The microwave convection is on the same leg as the 15k front unit. While hooked up to 50 amp shore service I am able to use all three a/c s while wife at the same time uses convection oven without any tripped breaker problems. Now as far as grade pulling Im a little surprised at the 25 mph performance. I have a 2013 378 and tow a 2016 ford explorer behind it. I live in southern WV and can pull very long 6 percent grades towing my explorer holding 48 mph turning 4250 to 4500 rpms. When I first traded for this unit I was fearful of rpms greater than around 3500 same as you. However after discussing this issue with many ford v10 owners Ive been assured the ford v10 is designed to run at 4500 rpm when pulling grades with no engine damage. I ran into a guy at onslow beach in nc last fall with a v10 with 95000 miles on his coach and he said he has ran his 4500 plus rpms while pulling grades while towing since buying unit new. He said he has always ran mobile 1 in both the v10 and onan since new. He changes oil in v10 every 5000 miles and generator every 150 hours and said he never has to add oil between changes. After talking to him and several other v10 owners I added the 5 star tune to avoid the 5th to 3rd downshifts and run 4250 to 4500 rpms on long grades while towing and no problems thus far. I just hit 20000 miles and unit runs strong and never add oil between changes. My Dad just turned 75 and we are leaving this friday for a 30 day excursion out west. Plan to take similar route as did with wife last year. grand canyon, yellowstone, mt rushmore but also adding durango this year. Plan to spend last few days of trip before returning home at passport america rally in Goshen in June. Have fun on your trip and dont be afraid to twist it a little tighter on long grades. Unless motor had issues while building it will stay together. Ford gives you a good 5 yr 60 k warranty. If it throws a rod at 4500 rpm better sooner than later while under warranty. Just be sure and keep all receipts on required preventive maintenance and you will be covered should something come apart. In closing I'll add Ive been told by several v10 owners the motor has a rev limiter that will not allow you to over rev the engine. I know it is hard to get used to as this is the first v10 i've owned and had the same concerns when first driving the coach. Good luck and have fun.
wvphil, hi.
I too have a 2013 378 with single pane windows. It never really cools enough in the hot texas summers. I was thinking of adding a third A/C in the middle fantastic fan hole.
How did you wire it up?
Like where did you run your wiring?
Did you run it on the roof to over the washing machine cabinet then straight down to the breaker box?
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:19 PM   #11
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Thanks for all of the info. I imagine our 270S Georgetown will be fine with the grade but that is a long haul. The road looks good on Google maps street views. Enjoy your trip.
The road is definitely good. No problem other than the grade.
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:49 PM   #12
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I fished the 12 / 2 with ground across after removing the fantastic fan. I picked up the 12 volt there where fantastic fan was from the factory and fished wires down ac duct to the vent by the shower and toilet door. Removed that vent and relocated fantastic fan there beside shower. Once fantastic fan was removed I went into the cabinet over the residential fridge and removed wood panel on right side of the inside of cabinet when looking in from front. Fished wire with good stiff fish across from the opening inside ceiling to that point. Went in toilet area and removed the wood channel ie box in on the inside of the toilet area they build at factory to conceal the wiring / plumbing running from breaker box in bedroom on other side of toilet to the refrigerator at floor. Once the box in was removed I then ran the wire down beside the fridge to where the other wires and plumbing is ran from factory back through the toilet wall to the breaker box. I added a breaker on the same side of breaker box as the rear 13.5 k btu ac. The breaker box will slide out from front after removing screws and there is enough slack on the present wiring to move it out enough to get to your new wire you are fishing through. After the wire is through to your breaker box its just wiring new piece of 12/2 to your new breaker you will install. Then reinstalled box in cover panel in toilet area that was made at factory to conceal existing wiring and pluming, reinstall side panel inside top of cabinet above fridge and then install new ac and wire it ( black hot white neutral and bare copper ground) same as home wiring. Everything is concealed just like it would have been done from factory. It took two or three hours to fish the wire as stated above but definitely worth the time as Id think it would be an eye sore if not concealed. Yes you could go through roof and across top of roof then down through closet above breaker box and may be a little quicker but I would strongly suggest to use exterior grade wire or put wire in conduit across roof if you go that route. My recommendation would be fish from inside across to cabinet above fridge. Then once done youll be totally happy because it will be same as a factory install. To make job quicker and not fish down wall between fridge and toilet area you could punch through your ceiling upholstery once inside cabinet above fridge and pull fridge out (sounds harder than is as I had mine out to replace cracked frozen water control valve after not properly winterizing first year) then run wire down behind fridge then fish through the Chanel area in toilet room back to the breaker box in bedroom. If you remove fridge can probably fish the wire through without removing the boxed in cover at floor in toilet room. I hope my rambling is clear and not confusing. If I need to clarify please let me know.
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:56 PM   #13
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Thanks for the quick reply
Great idea how to do it
Never would have thought to do it the way you did. Males for a nicer and more professional job.

Please disregard the PM
I didn't know if you saw this question
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Old 05-22-2017, 08:49 PM   #14
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I've found the transmission shift on up hill grades can be minimized be shifting to the tow/haul mode at about 60mph and pressing half accelerator pedal. This selects a gear that pulls my 2013 352XL uphill nicely without the very loud max rpm.
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