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Old 05-17-2018, 01:56 PM   #1
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New GT3, bad WH anode??

Hey everyone!

New here, bought a new 2017 Georgetown GT3 in January. Took my first trip in April and had issues with sediment in the faucets. Took the restrictor out of the aerator and they worked again.

After the trip I drained the water tank and a bunch of stuff came out. But after refilling the tank the toilet hardly flowed any water. So I figured stuff got in there too, I couldn't figure out how to take it apart so I took it into the dealer for warranty service. I mean, I had this problem on the first use.

Well, they claim the anode in the WH went bad and Forest River says its a maintenance issue and not a warranty item. What the heck?? I didn't even use it yet??

So I have to pay to have it fixed?!?! What’s the point of a warranty and like should that happen right away?

I am supposed to pick up the coach today, I hope the toilet is flowing water! UGH
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Old 05-17-2018, 02:13 PM   #2
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Yes after several months of water in the Heater it is possible the A-Rod has done its job! Water quality is a Big factor! Some members can go several months on a A-Rod some Go 2 years! Its up to the user/owner to Monitor the A-Rod and Clean the "White Crud" out of your water Heater Tank! Youroo!!
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Old 05-17-2018, 02:19 PM   #3
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Pretty common problem on Georgetown's. My 2011 used to do it, toilet wise, until I started to change my anode rod every Spring shake down. In the future if the problem persists on the toilet you should be able to screw off the water inlet on the back of the toilet, water off of course, pump too. If its like mine you'll have the nylon finger nut, easy to get off. Put a bowl or towel under the fitting, not a lot of water comes out. Clean out the inlet with a tooth pick or something, you will see the gravel type material. This is something the dealer should've tipped you on, especially if they have been a FR dealer. They play games or charge FR for repair or in my case a new toilet for a simple fix, change the anode rod every year.
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Old 05-17-2018, 02:25 PM   #4
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Really, so I never even turned on the water system, let alone the water heater. And now its my fault?

Thanks for the heads up on the toilet. I was trying to take it apart but with the lack of visibility I just gave up. But having the motorhome at the dealer for 3 weeks is just crazy, I should have just done it myself and avoid their super high labor rate.

Frustrating as you expect something BRAND NEW to work, not fall apart on the first use.
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:21 PM   #5
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But the one thing I was thinking of, when the anode rod goes, does sediment really get into the main water tank?

I would think it stays in only the hot water lines. Why is it in all the cold water lines?
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:42 PM   #6
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The anode rod is being consumed anytime there is water in the water heater regardless of being on or off. The crud then falls off the rod and will drop to the bottom of the water tank. If you open the low point drains the crud is drawn out the WH input side ( cold water) and into the cold water plumbing. Some/most will leave through the low point drain, but some will stay in the lines. The next time you use the water it is pushed along the lines to the valves and screens, You almost never have a crud issue in the hot water lines. The crud can not get in the FW tank it is lying in the cold water lines. Replacing the anode rod is a 10 min task and a new rod is less than $20. If your water is eating the rod that quickly, buy two and check it often. This is really a owner maint issue as the dealer mentioned..
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:43 PM   #7
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The anode rod has nothing to do with the cold water. Your toilet valve problem is probably construction debris.
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:44 PM   #8
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With only a hot line out of the water heater it's hard to believe it was anode rod. I believe it was construction crud in the lines and should be covered under warranty.

OldCoot beat me to it but I agree with him.
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:15 PM   #9
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first off, it can't come from the water tank itself since there is a screen on the output of the water pump and it is a really fine screen. I had my toilet screen plug more than once with what looked like oxidation from the anode rod as there really would be no crystalline construction debris. If you drain the HW tank and let it flush a little, you will be surprised with what comes out...

Second, check to make sure that the two screws that hold your flush valve to the toilet base have been installed. Mine wouldn't stay in with the nylon fingers so I ordered a new one...and saw the screws and just put them in. However, in defense of FR, on my 335, it is really hard to get them in since there is almost no space to work. ended up using a 32 point box wrench and could only turn 1 point per try...but now it is solid.
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:16 PM   #10
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See, that's why I don't understand their reasoning!
I can understand if they tell me its in the hot water lines, but in the main water tank and all the cold lines, and toilet....BS.

I will contact Forest River afterwards and complain.

I already had to deal with the steering wheel not being straight brand new, and waiting on them to send me a check since I had to have it fixed on my dime. Like a steering wheel shouldn't be pointing 30 degrees to the right when driving down the road straight.....
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