New to Georgetown RV

[Fargo444]

Hi -- just traded my old faithful 2003 Tiffin for a 2016 Georgetown (model 364) -- 11,000 miles. So while I have 7 years of RV experience I am a bit of a "newbie" today.

I have a two of really trivial questions and one more significant one.

Put in a call to Forest River's technical support guy who assures me the breaker panel is on the wall of the bedroom of the coach -- but it is not! And so far I have not found it....

Also the xant. inverter is easy to find (once you remove the back plastic panels with the silly "peep" holes (what on earth are those panels for anyway??).

But I be danged if I can find the charger?? And is there a ammeter somewhere that allows me to monitor the charging process for the coach batteries (aside from the battery status monitor in middle of the coach?

The more substantial question what is the best strategy for pulling a full coach and a towed (Jeep GC) using the gas V-10. I will be pulling some long 7% grades in a few days and wonder about the best approach. I knew exactly how do it with the old diesel pusher - but now I'm starting over...

I know the Triton's peak hp (362 @ 4750) and torque (457@ 3250) so I was thinking about just gearing down as necessary to keep the rpms at 4750 i.e., max hp? Then again should I be revving it like that for extended periods (10 - 15 minutes)?

[Walter Pigeon]

Originally Posted by Fargo444

Hi -- just traded my old faithful 2003 Tiffin for a 2016 Georgetown (model 364) -- 11,000 miles. So while I have 7 years of RV experience I am a bit of a "newbie" today.

I have a two of really trivial questions and one more significant one.

Put in a call to Forest River's technical support guy who assures me the breaker panel is on the wall of the bedroom of the coach -- but it is not! And so far I have not found it....

Also the xant. inverter is easy to find (once you remove the back plastic panels with the silly "peep" holes (what on earth are those panels for anyway??).

But I be danged if I can find the charger?? And is there a ammeter somewhere that allows me to monitor the charging process for the coach batteries (aside from the battery status monitor in middle of the coach?

The more substantial question what is the best strategy for pulling a full coach and a towed (Jeep GC) using the gas V-10. I will be pulling some long 7% grades in a few days and wonder about the best approach. I knew exactly how do it with the old diesel pusher - but now I'm starting over...

I know the Triton's peak hp (362 @ 4750) and torque (457@ 3250) so I was thinking about just gearing down as necessary to keep the rpms at 4750 i.e., max hp? Then again should I be revving it like that for extended periods (10 - 15 minutes)?

All good questions and I an looking forward to seeing honest answers from the gallery... New to owning a Georgetown myself, picked up a 2011 337DS and I found one fuse panel under the steering wheel, but I think those are all for the truck, not the coach... Let us know if you find another !!

[mogman]

The 337DS fuse panel is under the pantry opposite the refigerator.Your converter is in the rear compartment with the power cable.
Not sure about the 364 but the fuse panel is a brown box with a lid on it. I have never seen an ammeter on a Georgetown RV.
Driving up and down hills is easy done if you use tow haul. The gearbox will find its own sweet spot and you can sit and watch the scenery. It may get noisy but not so much in a 2016 as a 2011?

[Walter Pigeon]

Originally Posted by mogman

The 337DS fuse panel is under the pantry opposite the refigerator.Your converter is in the rear compartment with the power cable.
Not sure about the 364 but the fuse panel is a brown box with a lid on it. I have never seen an ammeter on a Georgetown RV.
Driving up and down hills is easy done if you use tow haul. The gearbox will find its own sweet spot and you can sit and watch the scenery. It may get noisy but not so much in a 2016 as a 2011?

I will look tomorrow, thanx !!

[Fargo444]

Thanks a lot!!

Originally Posted by mogman

.....I have never seen an ammeter on a Georgetown RV.

Too bad - our Tiffn had a Xantrex controller panel with meters that told you everything electrical that was going on in the coach -- SO handy!

Originally Posted by mogman

Driving up and down hills is easy done if you use tow haul. The gearbox will find its own sweet spot and you can sit and watch the scenery. It may get noisy but not so much in a 2016 as a 2011?

So then on long steep hills do you just pick a speed, like say 40 mph, set the cruise control with tow mode engaged, and then let the computer deal with the engine speeds? The hp peak is at 4750 rpm and I do not worry about going there as long as it is OK for extended periods (10 - 15 mintues?). I try never to be in a hurry so slow does not bother me at all. The comment on noise (2011 vs. 2016) refers to the 6R140 transmission?

[BillMFl]

For long hill climbs I slow down to a speed that keeps my engine noise level less than what 4000 plus creates. This means a very slow climb in the far right lane. You will usually have lots of company there, semis etc. Forget about speed and focus on comfort and less stress on you and your drive train. Also use the tow haul mode to control down hill speed with engine breaking thus saving your brakes. I used to climb those big grades at full speed pulling a big 5th wheel with a diesel truck. But with the V10 I just do not want to listen to the loud roar even if it does no harm to the engine. The V10 drive train is excellent overall but may be frustrating for former diesel owners when climbing steep grades. Be patient or wear ear muffs! [emoji1]

[geoff270ssf]

Originally Posted by Fargo444

Hi -- just traded my old faithful 2003 Tiffin for a 2016 Georgetown (model 364) -- 11,000 miles. So while I have 7 years of RV experience I am a bit of a "newbie" today.

I have a two of really trivial questions and one more significant one.

Put in a call to Forest River's technical support guy who assures me the breaker panel is on the wall of the bedroom of the coach -- but it is not! And so far I have not found it....

Also the xant. inverter is easy to find (once you remove the back plastic panels with the silly "peep" holes (what on earth are those panels for anyway??).

But I be danged if I can find the charger?? And is there a ammeter somewhere that allows me to monitor the charging process for the coach batteries (aside from the battery status monitor in middle of the coach?

The more substantial question what is the best strategy for pulling a full coach and a towed (Jeep GC) using the gas V-10. I will be pulling some long 7% grades in a few days and wonder about the best approach. I knew exactly how do it with the old diesel pusher - but now I'm starting over...

I know the Triton's peak hp (362 @ 4750) and torque (457@ 3250) so I was thinking about just gearing down as necessary to keep the rpms at 4750 i.e., max hp? Then again should I be revving it like that for extended periods (10 - 15 minutes)?

The breaker panel may be on the "wall" of the bed support (below the bed).

[Fargo444]

Originally Posted by geoff270ssf

The breaker panel may be on the "wall" of the bed support (below the bed).

Thanks I finally found it today. In the 2016 Model 364 (bunks) it is located in the upper left hand corner above the king bed next to the drawers. Since every thing is brown the panel cover kind of looks like another drawer. Now is I can just find a key for the two or so fuses in the DC side of the panel!

[AquaMan]

The charger/converter is in the basement with the transfer switch and power cable. It's mounted on the wall to the back. A key question is figuring out if your '16 is built on a '15 or a '16 chassis. Look at your gear selector, if you have "1,2,4,D" you have a '16 chassis. If you have "1,2,3,D" you have a '15 chassis. I pulled a wrangler unlimited all over out west and was rarely over 4K ('16 chassis). It was slow going at times, but did better overall than my buddy who has a '15 chassis. The V-10 will run at those rpms all day, don't worry about the 15 minutes of pulling long grades.

[kentdavido]

Our fuse panel on our 364, 2016 is above the king bed,,, inverter panel
In the storage bay with the land power cord. Additional fuses for the leveling system is back behind the batteries just to the left of the coach steps.

[Fargo444]

Thanks to all who commented -- the problems I presented are SOLVED -- this is a very useful and friendly forum!

But I created a new one (potentially) for myself this afternoon.

After a quick search of the internet (too quick!!) I settled on Mobil synthetic 5W20 and crawled under there and did the dirty deed -- plus new Motorcraft FL-820S filter.

Not even 2 hours later while snooping around to see how much storage space is under the master bed I encountered a box of manuals including -- yes, the 2016 Ford engine and trans manual, Lo and behold they recommend synthetic blend 5W30 weight oil. So I'm thinking maybe I've just done a $38 flush of my crank case? Drain it out and put in the heavier oil?

[Fargo444]

Originally Posted by kentdavido

Our fuse panel on our 364, 2016 is above the king bed,,, inverter panel
In the storage bay with the land power cord. Additional fuses for the leveling system is back behind the batteries just to the left of the coach steps.

Thanks that useful information. I confirm my breaker and fuse panel is where you say it is. The breaks on the 120 AVC side are labeled -- but the index for the 12DVC fuses is blank. I wonder where one might find that info. Guess I'll send an email to Nick Hoover at Forest River.

[Fargo444]

sorry double post

[Fargo444]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

The charger/converter is in the basement with the transfer switch and power cable. It's mounted on the wall to the back. A key question is figuring out if your '16 is built on a '15 or a '16 chassis. Look at your gear selector, if you have "1,2,4,D" you have a '16 chassis. If you have "1,2,3,D" you have a '15 chassis. I pulled a wrangler unlimited all over out west and was rarely over 4K ('16 chassis). It was slow going at times, but did better overall than my buddy who has a '15 chassis. The V-10 will run at those rpms all day, don't worry about the 15 minutes of pulling long grades.

Thanks great info. So I have a 2016 chassis then with the 6R140 trans (6 spd). Good to know the engine can stand the revs. My Jeep SRT with a 475 hp hemi rarely breaks 2500 rpms so you get used to "quiet" I guess - but it only has to pull 5200 lbs.

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by Fargo444

Thanks that useful information. I confirm my breaker and fuse panel is where you say it is. The breaks on the 120 AVC side are labeled -- but the index for the 12DVC fuses is blank. I wonder where one might find that info. Guess I'll send an email to Nick Hoover at Forest River.

I'll take a look at my panel and see if it's filled in. If so, I'll take a pic and post it. I personally don't care to know what each fuse is for, just that I know to change the one that goes bad. Now the dozen or so fuses in the battery compartment are a different story. That's a pain trying to see if one of those is burnt.

[camaraderie]

Just a quick note on the ammeter question...No...G'towns don't come with them but Victron makes a very nice one that will give you even more info than the Tiffin system.
About $150 bucks for a BMV700. Monitor connects to shunt with a phone cord cable (included) and power wire and negative cable attach to the shunt. Piece o cake.

Alternatively a lot of folks use the Trimetric version. It's not too hard to get even better monitoring than you had on the Tiffin...but I wish FR included it too!
Good luck with the new rig...we love ours.

[pkaplan]

According to Ford - you can use full synthetic oil in the Triton V10 - however, using it does not allow extending the recommended change interval. (Which is 5,000 miles). Hence, in Ford's opinion, full synthetic oil is just a waste of money over the blend. That said, I use full synthetic also and keep to the 5,000 mile change interval.