newb with freeze protect question?

[louigi]

I keep my GT328 in an inside RV storage unit year round but don't want to winterize as I plan to use it and go South later in the month. Our average low temps for Dec and Jan are about 30F but on rare occasions it can get down to 20-25F , and I am concerned about inside bay temps? I am wondering about adding a light bulb or small space heater to water /sewer compartment below to keep water lines from freezing? There is a 120v recepticle in each RV storage bay ( I assume 15amp? for battery chargers ). I thought I had read somewhere in this forum about the "light bulb" idea but not sure?

The storage unit is a long metal bldg and is not insulated. I am in the middle of a 30 bay unit and will get some insulation from the units on either side. Each unit is completely enclosed with a large roll up door on one end. We rarely get down in the 20's but it can happen and just wanted some input.

[ramair]

The light bulbs will work as long as you have power to your space. between the light bulbs and other units, that will provide some protection you should be ok. I would put a t-stat in the RV and have a remote unit in the storage bay so you can see what the temps are at a quick glance.

[Timtation]

Use something like this to control the heater and you might be okay heating the bay to 35.
Columbus Electric KTO 121B Line Voltage Thermostat Cooling 120V | eBay

[LKicklight]

We use one of those oil/electric small radiator type heaters, there is a freeze setting on the control knob which allows the unit to come on when the temperature reach's 36 degree (F). When the heater comes on, it operates at a much higher setting to get the temperature around it back up to above 36 degrees. Have also used these on my houseboat, even in the engine compartment and main cabin during the winter months, now in the RV's, always worked well for us, even now as we speak:

Originally Posted by Timtation

Use something like this to control the heater and you might be okay heating the bay to 35.
Columbus Electric KTO 121B Line Voltage Thermostat Cooling 120V | eBay

[Timtation]

LKickLight, the oil heaters are not ignition protected, not a good idea in the engine compartment, the thermostat can spark.

[LKicklight]

they worked fine when I use them, sold the boat, not a problem any longer! thanks

[camper1999]

To you have low point drains under your unit. You can open those and then open the faucets and must of the water will drain out. You can buy an attachment to blow out the lines to add additional security from freezing. Do the above you would not have to worry above freezing even with antifreeze and/or a heat source

[Witch Doctor]

It has been 25 to 27 every night here> I do not winterize for the same reason I put a 1500 watt heater in the unit with all my cabinet doors open where theres plumbing. I also run my tank heaters on. I have a remote stat in the basement it never gotten below 41 down there, you should be fine. I also leave my hot water tank on. been doing it this way for 2 years never a problem I use it during the winter so I do not want to do the whole ball of wax each time. works for me.

[43D18]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

It has been 25 to 27 every night here> I do not winterize for the same reason I put a 1500 watt heater in the unit with all my cabinet doors open where theres plumbing. I also run my tank heaters on. I have a remote stat in the basement it never gotten below 41 down there, you should be fine. I also leave my hot water tank on. been doing it this way for 2 years never a problem I use it during the winter so I do not want to do the whole ball of wax each time. works for me.

This is pretty much our approach as well. I do place a 75Watt trouble light inside the water connection /outside shower bay when it gets down in low 20's for peace of mind. That compartment seems to be the most vulnerable of all, not being insulated at all, and with the outside shower and water supply lines very much exposed. So I also placed some 1/2 in flexible foam insulation in that bay, and recently on a 20-degree night it stayed in the upper 40's in that compartment.

Also, if it does get lower 20's or colder, we'll set the furnace thermostat such that it will kick on periodically (even w/ the supplemental heat from the oil filled heater) so it circulates some warmth into the fresh water bay below.

[LKicklight]

We have a compartment similar in the wall just behind the toilet, it is accessible from inside, so a light bulb would work great in there for the winter. Think I'll stick one in there with a timer when I go back up Saturday. The Crusader has the low point drain system, which works great during winter. Draining everything works about as well as blowing the lines out, done that also, so should be fine. Put plenty of pink stuff in all the P-Traps and Toilet Bowl: Along with the Oil Heater sit on Freeze setting:

Originally Posted by 43D18

This is pretty much our approach as well. I do place a 75Watt trouble light inside the water connection /outside shower bay when it gets down in low 20's for peace of mind. That compartment seems to be the most vulnerable of all, not being insulated at all, and with the outside shower and water supply lines very much exposed. So I also placed some 1/2 in flexible foam insulation in that bay, and recently on a 20-degree night it stayed in the upper 40's in that compartment.

Also, if it does get lower 20's or colder, we'll set the furnace thermostat such that it will kick on periodically (even w/ the supplemental heat from the oil filled heater) so it circulates some warmth into the fresh water bay below.

[RobKat]

Originally Posted by LKicklight

We have a compartment similar in the wall just behind the toilet, it is accessible from inside, so a light bulb would work great in there for the winter. Think I'll stick one in there with a timer when I go back up Saturday. The Crusader has the low point drain system, which works great during winter. Draining everything works about as well as blowing the lines out, done that also, so should be fine. Put plenty of pink stuff in all the P-Traps and Toilet Bowl: Along with the Oil Heater sit on Freeze setting:

Does anyone know the location of the basement heat? I have a 2011 360 and I've read the furnace sends heat down to the areas where there are water pipes. We are wintering in Virginia and it is getting into the low 30s overnight. I have the furnace running and heating the MH but don't want to wake to frozen pipes.

[43D18]

Not sure exactly where the heat enters the basement. Its difficult if not impossible to see where. But if its only going to reach the low 30s you needn't be concerned. The most exposed area is probably the ouside shower bay. You might put a 100 watt bulb in there. But again unless you get temps in the 20s, and it stays there, you won't have a problem.

If you are concerned, keep the furnace set on 55. It will cycle on plenty enough to keep the basement above freezing

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by RobKat

Does anyone know the location of the basement heat? I have a 2011 360 and I've read the furnace sends heat down to the areas where there are water pipes. We are wintering in Virginia and it is getting into the low 30s overnight. I have the furnace running and heating the MH but don't want to wake to frozen pipes.

You probably have a heat duct down there for heat, I live in Virginia you should be fine tonight, the only thing that I would disconnect is your water supply hose. If you have tank heaters turn them on also. Where are you at in Virginia? I live in the southern part right above NC. I have not winterized I use a 1500 watt space heater with my cabinet doors open sink and bath. The outside shower I put some insulation behind the outside door. been doing it for 2 years now knock on wood not a problem yet. CG's are closed now where are you at in Virginia?

[RobKat]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

You probably have a heat duct down there for heat, I live in Virginia you should be fine tonight, the only thing that I would disconnect is your water supply hose. If you have tank heaters turn them on also. Where are you at in Virginia? I live in the southern part right above NC. I have not winterized I use a 1500 watt space heater with my cabinet doors open sink and bath. The outside shower I put some insulation behind the outside door. been doing it for 2 years now knock on wood not a problem yet. CG's are closed now where are you at in Virginia?

I am near Charlottesville, VA and we are expected to have 3 nights of mid 20's. The furnace is set to 70 degrees and I can tell that the basement feels warm - my concern is with the water lines inside the compartments below. I have the supply water line into the MH wrapped with heat tape and then inside a foam wrap all the way into the water/sewer compartment. I coiled the extra length of hose in the compartment and wrapped it with the extra length of heat tape (raised the hose from sitting on the bottom of the compartment using rigid foam).

I have a 2011 360 and the Arctic Pack is on - I'm feeling safe in terms of the tanks. I had noticed that the hot/cold water supplies are in the two water/sanitary compartments and are not wrapped. Unfortunately, on my FR 360 there is only one compartment that has an AC plug - it's the forward storage that goes all the way across the MH. Go figure. Unlike my previous MH there are also no lights in the compartments.

If I wanted to put a small space heater in the larger compartment I would have to run an extension cord. Would it be safe to do so?

[43D18]

Sounds like you have taken a lot of great precautions and you should be fine.

I would not recommend putting a space heater in the water connection compartment, or any compartment below. There should be no need to heat the larger compartment. All of the plumbing, with the exception of the water/sanitary compartment, should be "above the belt". For the water connection compartment, run a trouble light fitted with a 100 watt bulb, which should provide more than adequate heat to keep it above freezing in that compartment.

A few cautions - make sure you don't lay the light against plastic or anything flammable, and be sure to insulate the point of entry around the cord feeding the light so cold air doesn't enter, or it defeats the purpose.

[RobKat]

Water + Electricity = not good. My 2011 360 has two compartments for sanitary. One of them has the shower, water supply source (hose), fill for fresh water, water filter, and the sanitary for gray/black. The other has just the sanitary for gray/black. I will try the light in the first compartment.

Having said that, I've trying to find the schematics for the unit. I called Forest River and after being handed off several times I was told that they did not publish them and if I had a problem it should be addressed by a qualified service tech.

I just want to know the workings of the unit. There are mods I want to make but without schematics it is a shot in the dark. Nothing like drilling through power cables or water pipes. I just checked their web site and what I was told is there in black and white.

Does anyone have a source to get schematics? Possibly in another thread?

[LKicklight]

In our coach, there are two 4" ducts that are connected to a metal plenum that runs the length of the Cargo Hole (rear to front) looks to be about 5'-0 long and about 4" x 12" square: This plenum gets pretty warm, so I'm figuring, if you have the furnace going, you will get all the heat you need down below: You can always close off the floor registers which should put more heat in that area as well.

Originally Posted by RobKat

Does anyone know the location of the basement heat? I have a 2011 360 and I've read the furnace sends heat down to the areas where there are water pipes. We are wintering in Virginia and it is getting into the low 30s overnight. I have the furnace running and heating the MH but don't want to wake to frozen pipes.