Newbie to Georgetown - Suspension Help

[Mr. October]

I definitely agree on driving first. We got our GT5 in the March and so far I’ve done . . Nothing. It seems to drive pretty well just as it came. I’m used to the rock and roll of our little sprinter as it drove down the road so to me this seems to drive like a dream. Over the winter I may add a Safe-T-Steer just in the event of a front-end blow out but right now don’t feel like it needs anything from a handling perspective.

[RFoxUSMC]

Originally Posted by Mr. October

I definitely agree on driving first. We got our GT5 in the March and so far I’ve done . . Nothing. It seems to drive pretty well just as it came. I’m used to the rock and roll of our little sprinter as it drove down the road so to me this seems to drive like a dream. Over the winter I may add a Safe-T-Steer just in the event of a front-end blow out but right now don’t feel like it needs anything from a handling perspective.

I go to the dealer this morning to take possession of The Mothership. Will take for checkout drive and see how she does (it naturally wont have any loaded weight). Thanks for your reply and we'll see ya down the road.

[RFoxUSMC]

Originally Posted by NXR

Agreed on getting the alignment and keeping the caster on the high end. FR does do an alignment at the factory now on new units, at least on the Georgetowns. Or they say they do on the factory tour.

What that actually means is a good question. Optimized for a motorhome, just in spec, or what? I'll find out next week when we get ours done by a local shop.

Ray

Ray - Please let us know the results of your alignment next week!

[almcguire]

Originally Posted by RFoxUSMC

Offended? - nope. Have 3 pistols and a nice stainless steel shotgun.

Rented a M14 at our range in Reno the other day and drilled center after not touching one for 35 years.

I'm an old cranky artillery jarhead from the old days. Semper Fi brother!

I also cranky jarhead 1970 dec to feb 1975 HMA 369 HMMT 302

[Dodge Guy]

Originally Posted by RFoxUSMC

Ray - Please let us know the results of your alignment next week!

I’m guessing they center the steering wheel! A solid front axle will not have the toe change regardless of weight. Caster may change a bit but the frame angle would have to be huge to change the caster enough to make a difference! But it’s still worth having it checked. Although I have the sheet on mine and they showed they set the toe. Toe was still out but the caster and camber were where they should’ve been. The previous owner had it done when they had the tires replaced. Thank god it didn’t wear out the tires (they only drove 500 miles before they traded it). As I said I think the handling is why they traded it. My wife even commented on it because it was all over the road on the drive home. After I set the toe and centered the wheel the handling and drive ability is 100times better than when I bought it. I was going to install a rear trac bar, but it’s so good now I think I’m going to save that money for other necessary mods, like a TPMS system and a new radio with GPS!

[seasure1]

I have been reading forums about suspension, tires 5 star tuning.

My take on all this is, everyone has an opinion based on THEIR RV.

I really enjoy the comments they make about other people myself included.

Until you have driven 5000 miles in someone RV,


You don't know sh*t about how their RV handles weight distribution etc.

I appreciate you having an opinion but they are just like as* holes everyone has one.

[RFoxUSMC]

Originally Posted by Mr. October

I definitely agree on driving first. We got our GT5 in the March and so far I’ve done . . Nothing. It seems to drive pretty well just as it came. I’m used to the rock and roll of our little sprinter as it drove down the road so to me this seems to drive like a dream. Over the winter I may add a Safe-T-Steer just in the event of a front-end blow out but right now don’t feel like it needs anything from a handling perspective.

Picked up and drove the Mothership today! Rides so much better than I thought it would (city only at this time as dealer has some do dahs to fix) but the steering, brakes, etc. were excellent! Big smile driving my first Class A!

[RFoxUSMC]

Originally Posted by seasure1

I have been reading forums about suspension, tires 5 star tuning.

My take on all this is, everyone has an opinion based on THEIR RV.

I really enjoy the comments they make about other people myself included.

Until you have driven 5000 miles in someone RV,


You don't know sh*t about how their RV handles weight distribution etc.

I appreciate you having an opinion but they are just like as* holes everyone has one.

I will give your input and comments the proper amount of consideration they deserve.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by RFoxUSMC

Ray - Please let us know the results of your alignment next week!

It did not go as planned. This place works on a lot of large trucks and there are always a couple of large Class A's there but maybe not for front end alignments. After we dropped it off they called and said their largest alignment rack could not accommodate our 242" wheelbase.

So they checked the toe, said it was perfect and did not charge me a dime. I really wanted to see what the caster was set to.

Oh, well.

Ray

[BatesMotel2]

We have a 2018 FR3 with a F53 Chassis and have logged over 10K miles the first year and we did the following when we first got it and are very happy with the way it handles:


1. Moved front sway bar to firm setting (CHF)
2. Installed Road Master Steering stabilizer.
3. Moved rear sway bar to firm setting (CHF)



So before you dump a ton of cash on new bags, shocks, sway bars etc... I would suggest you make these mods and take it for a drive on the interstate and reassess. Good luck brother

[exlnt1900]

We added the Blue Ox Tru Center. Check it out on line. Works great and keeps us running straight

[Dodge Guy]

Originally Posted by exlnt1900

We added the Blue Ox Tru Center. Check it out on line. Works great and keeps us running straight

That's what mine came with. It works great, but is finicky. I find myself constantly playing with it until I get it just right. Road crowns make it tough to get centered.

[RFoxUSMC]

So we pick the Georgetown up on Monday and drove it home in same town and it felt pretty good (no Interstate). Tuesday afternoon I notice oil leak under engine - rats. I call RV dealer and was told (and confirmed with Ford same day) that dealer can't work on F53 chassis as Ford only allows authorized Ford service centers to do so - I was dumbstruck!

So finally get right number and call Ford Motorhome Division and yup true about only Ford can work on engine during warranty period. I explain that the engine doesn't leak when not running but after running awhile major leak. Seems to be coming from above oil pan. Ford says no problem we will fix but surprise no repair centers in Reno area - closest is Roseville, CA. Well now how is it going to get there I ask. Surprisingly Ford says no problem we will arrange free tow and all engine repairs are free as well.

So finally huge fleet tow rig shows up yesterday afternoon and it is now sitting in Roseville waiting for review and repair.

While talking with service lead with Roseville Ford Fleet I ask about Sumo Springs, steering stabilizer, sway bars, etc. and if they would void the Ford chassis warranty. He said nope, only using an engine programmer would. Also states the items I was talking about would definitely help the Georgetown.

So I ask can you obtain and install? Says sure, no problem, once we figure the engine issue.

I have to look at the big picture. At least the engine issue surfaced at home vs somewhere deep out there on the road, all repairs and tow (estimated to be $1500) are paid for and I can have suspension items installed by location with all the right stuff.

Ain't life a hoot sometimes? Have a new Georgetown ONE day and surprise Bucko you ain't going nowhere.

[Dodge Guy]

Hmm. Curious as to what’s leaking. The V-10 is normally trouble free especially when it comes to leaks.

[tdgysin]

Semper Fi! -

We have a Georgetown 378 and thankfully at a Forest River rally, we were told that adding certain elements to the suspension helps a great deal with this coach. So, we went to a recommended suspension shop in Oregon and were told that the best way to handle this was to take it in steps, and continue until we were satisfied with the ride.

Recommended: 1) front stabilizer 2) anti-sway bar 3) shocks. So, we started with the stabilizer and after it was installed were amazed. Night and day difference when driving - no longer blown sideways when big trucks passed us and a much "quieter" ride. After a year or so, we added shocks (Koni in our case, as Sumos wouldn't fit) and noticed that we no longer "porpoised" after hitting a dip in the road and the ride was much smoother.

Bottom line, Forest River doesn't install better equipment from the get-go, so we have to, but it makes all the difference in the world.

Good luck, T. Gysin

[RFoxUSMC]

It was the oil filter adapter housing gasket causing the leak.

Parts on order. Now we wait.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by RFoxUSMC

It was the oil filter adapter housing gasket causing the leak.

Parts on order. Now we wait.

Good, so nothing expensive.

Ray

[Dodge Guy]

Good to hear. Glad it nothing serious.

[AquaMan]

I installed the front and rear Roadmaster sway bars on mine. Had both on in just over an hour, using power tools. I bought the Reflex also, but it's still sitting in the garage after 3 years. I haven't installed it because the rig is so easy to drive. I did have an alignment done, which helped also. I can drive 12-15 hours a day if need be and not feel like I've been beat with a stick the entire time. My next move will be to a hybrid air ride system. While the CHF is cheap to do, I feel it's more of a bandaid than a fix. If doing, I would get the longer links to save the stress on mounts.

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by RFoxUSMC

While talking with service lead with Roseville Ford Fleet I ask about Sumo Springs, steering stabilizer, sway bars, etc. and if they would void the Ford chassis warranty. He said nope, only using an engine programmer would.

Not exactly true...

According to the Federal Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act, warranties MUST be honored unless there is definitive proof that the aftermarket device was the direct cause of the failure. Adding a 'chip' would not exclude the warranty from fixing an oil leak or a bad water pump. It 'might' void a blown head gasket claim, but they have to prove that the chip caused the issue.


Tim