No power at outlets and outlet to refrigerator

[bubbles]

Don't know about anybody else but my 2012 GT receptacles in question are powered by the circuit breaker in the circuit breaker panel labeled REC. I believe all NON GFCI (GFI) receptacles are powered via this CB. I know the ones in question are in my GT. The receptacle in the compartment aft of the door is GFCI protected but not a GFCI receptacle.

[BobHanke]

A previous post mentioned all outlets downstream from the actual GFI outlet and "daisy chaining". Each outlet has a set of input and a set of output contacts. It is possible to have a loose output contact which stops the downstream outlets from working but allows this outlet to appear OK. Unfortunately logic will not always show you which way the "stream" flows so it is an outlet by outlet hunt.

[Skip12]

Have you started following wires with a multimeter? When I have issues like this, i try a scientific process of elimination from the outlet and work your way back. The multimeter will take the guess work out of it.

My workflow would be something like:
Does the outlet have juice? Probably not?
Do you have a good hot and ground wires leading to the outlet?
Then check which way the wires appear to run looking for the problem.

Good luck.

[2corvette]

I'm a retired Gen. Contr. and Electrician. Re. your GFCI outlet in bathroom, it may be working, but is open regarding the continuation of the protected circuit to other outlets.
Using a meter, check and see if you have 110v at the back side of the outlet. You may have to strip a bit of insulation if you can't access the junction leading to the following outlets. Many times the GFCI has been defective in supplying voltage "downstream, while still energized at the front.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Did you check the one outside in the compartment left of the steps?

Yes

[bubbles]

Forget the GFCI equation. Did you read post #21?

[mustardjim]

I can tell you of a prob I had, with the plug to my microwave. Microwave stopped working looked for blown breakers nothing plugged microwave into a different outlet it worked fine. IT TURNED OUT THE PROB WAS A BROKEN WIRE between the panel and the microwave plug. Dealer fixed under warranty cant say why it had broke possibly to tight but works now.

[Sealyn]

Do you have an inverter? If so check for a open circuit breaker.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by cavie

No, it is not a GFI outlet and should NOT be supplied by one. Remove your breaker panel cover and be sure that all connection screws are tight.

can you show us a picture of you breaker panel label?

I appreciate everybody’s input. I’ll try an accommodate all of the recommendations. Allow me time to jump back and forth chasing wires and multimeter outlets.

Here’s the circuit breaker panel picture as requested. I’ve been ask to check for a popped breaker five or six times now. Circuit breaker panel is off again for pictures. I was asked to check for loose wiring on the CB panel and replied not finding loose wires. I’ve went back over it with a screw driver to check the set screw for each wire in the breaker box. They are all good and tight. I like the idea to pull off the GFI outlet and check for current behind the outlet even though the outlet has power and works. Any suggestion is welcome. I’m out of ideas.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by hartc883

I appreciate everybody’s input. I’ll try an accommodate all of the recommendations. Allow me time to jump back and forth chasing wires and multimeter outlets.

Here’s the circuit breaker panel picture as requested. I’ve been ask to check for a popped breaker five or six times now. Circuit breaker panel is off again for pictures. I was asked to check for loose wiring on the CB panel and replied not finding loose wires. I’ve went back over it with a screw driver to check the set screw for each wire in the breaker box. They are all good and tight. I like the idea to pull off the GFI outlet and check for current behind the outlet even though the outlet has power and works. Any suggestion is welcome. I’m out of ideas.

Attachment 1

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by hartc883

Attachment 194437Attachment 1

[houstonstroker]

Maybe I missed it, but is you Inverter powered on?

[flynfool]

Sealyn first mentioned it and Houstonstoker also suggested you check your inverter. It has a GFI breaker on it and the refrigerator gets its power from the inverter. I had your same problem and had to track down the reason my refrigerator had suddenly died. The real trick was finding the invertor. On my '16 GT 329 it is in the same compartment as the WH and the water pump. It was a eureka moment when I found that GFI outlet. Check it out.

[Mrpontiac]

i had this very same issue in my hitchhiker 5th wheel last month. it turned out to be down the line from the gfi outlet in the bathroom. there was a total of 7 outlets that were dead down the line. in my bathroom there is an outlet low on the wall next to the toilet. that apparently was the first down the line. it was a different style of outlet, the wires were not screwed down they were simply pushed in to slots, with a plastic cover. naturally a wire had worked lose. hopefully your problem is this simple, and you can find which outlet. try for the first one that is dead near your gfi. good luck, Cary

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Don't know about anybody else but my 2012 GT receptacles in question are powered by the circuit breaker in the circuit breaker panel labeled REC. I believe all NON GFCI (GFI) receptacles are powered via this CB. I know the ones in question are in my GT. The receptacle in the compartment aft of the door is GFCI protected but not a GFCI receptacle.

If I read your comment correctly. You are stating you have a breaker labeled REC room and all your non-GFI are powered by it. Similarly, I have a REC room breaker, which I believe powers my TV etc, “the tv outlet” separate from the outlet next to the fireplace. The fireplace outlet wiring runs behind the tv stand/cabinet just as the tv outlet does and they both run to the same junction box. You would think that they both would function the same. To investigate this further will require removing the fireplace. I’m not ready to break that too by removing it to see how wiring goes through the junction box. It would be my luck the fireplace’s delicate masterful crafted inter working would break. Back to the circuit breaker...I also have a separate breaker for GFI. Among other breakers that are non-GFI. All of which have been checked for open circuits. I have not placed a multimeter on all the breaker wires. Seems as though we have ruled out all the obvious stuff.

[houstonstroker]

Do you have an Inverter? If so is it on and they sometimes have their own breakers.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by hartc883

If I read your comment correctly. You are stating you have a breaker labeled REC room and all your non-GFI are powered by it. Similarly, I have a REC room breaker, which I believe powers my TV etc, “the tv outlet” separate from the outlet next to the fireplace. The fireplace outlet wiring runs behind the tv stand/cabinet just as the tv outlet does and they both run to the same junction box. You would think that they both would function the same. To investigate this further will require removing the fireplace. I’m not ready to break that too by removing it to see how wiring goes through the junction box. It would be my luck the fireplace’s delicate masterful crafted inter working would break. Back to the circuit breaker...I also have a separate breaker for GFI. Among other breakers that are non-GFI. All of which have been checked for open circuits. I have not placed a multimeter on all the breaker wires. Seems as though we have ruled out all the obvious stuff.

He didn't say he had "a breaker labeled REC room" just REC. I assume it's short for receptacles.
Regarding the questions about whether you have an Inverter: is your refrigerator a residential type or an RV type? The RV types won't usually be powered through an inverter - just Romex from the power panel.


Thanks for remaining patient. Sometimes we post a great suggestion that was just overruled in the few posts above but we don't always read what's written above. The other day, a member asked for suggestions about a long trip he needed to make. A couple of days ago, he wrote what he decided and a report on how the trip turned out. Today he had more inputs "don't go through Van Alstyne... there's road construction", etc., but he's already finished with the trip.
Here's hoping you get straightened out. It might not hurt to restate your issue as you currently understand it.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by houstonstroker

Maybe I missed it, but is you Inverter powered on?

I suspect my inverter is on, there is power at the outlet powering it, the radiator is warm to the touch, it is buzzing. All three fuses are good. I have no reason to think it is the problem. I checked these things out earlier last night and again today after your suggestion. I don’t think we are focused on the right area, unless I don’t have a full understanding of system. Inverter charges 12 volt D/C batteries, supplies filtered 12 volt power to your lights and other little things when hooked up to the shore. I have a Domestic refrigerator, it does use D/C for the LED display and power functions when running off propane. But when it is not running on propane it is powered by A/C, from the outlet on the outside of the MH, which is the problem shown in the picture supplied earlier.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

He didn't say he had "a breaker labeled REC room" just REC. I assume it's short for receptacles.
Regarding the questions about whether you have an Inverter: is your refrigerator a residential type or an RV type? The RV types won't usually be powered through an inverter - just Romex from the power panel.


Thanks for remaining patient. Sometimes we post a great suggestion that was just overruled in the few posts above but we don't always read what's written above. The other day, a member asked for suggestions about a long trip he needed to make. A couple of days ago, he wrote what he decided and a report on how the trip turned out. Today he had more inputs "don't go through Van Alstyne... there's road construction", etc., but he's already finished with the trip.
Here's hoping you get straightened out. It might not hurt to restate your issue as you currently understand it.

I have a RV type of refrigerator. Good point! Allow me to restate the problem. I have four outlets with no power. Two are located in the bedroom under the bed, one outlet next to the living room fireplace and the last outlet is located outside, behind the refrigerator panel used to power the refrigerator. I did not notice all four going out at the same time. I have been living with three outlets not working for some time now. I discovered the refrigerator outlet not working when the propane ran out and the refrigerator stop keeping food cold. The outlet to the refrigerator could have been out for some time also and I never noticed it switching over to gas. I have checked all circuit breakers on the main panel, I have looked all over the MH for another GFI outlet beside the one in the bathroom. No luck finding one. Any help from GT owners of the 378XL with similar layouts. My MH is a 2012.

[CA Fisherman]

Hartc883 - First I will apologize in advance if a couple of my assumption are incorrect. It appears from your breaker panel pictures that you have 50 amp service. Unfortunately I cannot read the label sheet for the breakers, so need to ask a few questions. Here goes: Are you connected to a 50 amp pedestal? If you are, are you sure both 50 amp circuit beakers at the pedestal are in the "on" position? Do you have two rooftop A/C units? if you do, do they both work? What I am attempting to determine is if one of the 50 amp circuits from the pedestal is not powering one side of your breaker panel. If this is in fact the case, then all outlets wired to one side of your breaker panel would not work. The reason I ask about roof top A/C units is that typically one unit is wired to one side of the breaker panel and the second A/C unit to the other side of the breaker panel. If one A/C unit works and one does not, that is a strong indicator of a power feed issue to your breaker panel.