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Old 01-12-2019, 04:36 PM   #41
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agreed

if both of your AC Units can be powered up, then it's not your outside power source...

but if one does not, then it could be the 50amp power supply - i.e., one of it's wires is not seated/tightened to the double-pole breaker.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:13 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by hartc883 View Post
If I read your comment correctly. You are stating you have a breaker labeled REC room and all your non-GFI are powered by it. Similarly, I have a REC room breaker, which I believe powers my TV etc, ďthe tv outletĒ separate from the outlet next to the fireplace. The fireplace outlet wiring runs behind the tv stand/cabinet just as the tv outlet does and they both run to the same junction box. You would think that they both would function the same. To investigate this further will require removing the fireplace. Iím not ready to break that too by removing it to see how wiring goes through the junction box. It would be my luck the fireplaceís delicate masterful crafted inter working would break. Back to the circuit breaker...I also have a separate breaker for GFI. Among other breakers that are non-GFI. All of which have been checked for open circuits. I have not placed a multimeter on all the breaker wires. Seems as though we have ruled out all the obvious stuff.
My post was to get away from a GFCI issue. It is true that if I open the REC breaker in my GT 378 I lose power to your issue receptacles but also lose TV power and I'm sure everything else plugged in that doesn't have a dedicated breaker or plugged into a GFCI protected receptacle. I don't know where the split (j box) for the issue receptacles is located but it does appear that the issue is not a breaker. Good hunting.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:21 PM   #43
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Attachment 194441I suspect my inverter is on, there is power at the outlet powering it, the radiator is warm to the touch, it is buzzing. All three fuses are good. I have no reason to think it is the problem. I checked these things out earlier last night and again today after your suggestion. I don’t think we are focused on the right area, unless I don’t have a full understanding of system. Inverter charges 12 volt D/C batteries, supplies filtered 12 volt power to your lights and other little things when hooked up to the shore. I have a Domestic refrigerator, it does use D/C for the LED display and power functions when running off propane. But when it is not running on propane it is powered by A/C, from the outlet on the outside of the MH, which is the problem shown in the picture supplied earlier.

The unit you have pictured in post #38 is not an INverter, it is a CONverter.

A INverter takes 12vdc power from your batteries and inverts it to 120vac to power a residential refrigerator and usually one 120vac outlet.

A CONverter takes 120vac from the shore (pedistal) power and converts it to 12vdc to charge your batteries and power 12vdc accessories such as lights, awnings, furnace fan, vent fans, and a 2-way or 3-way refrigerator.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:27 PM   #44
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Hartc883 - First I will apologize in advance if a couple of my assumption are incorrect. It appears from your breaker panel pictures that you have 50 amp service. Unfortunately I cannot read the label sheet for the breakers, so need to ask a few questions. Here goes: Are you connected to a 50 amp pedestal? If you are, are you sure both 50 amp circuit beakers at the pedestal are in the "on" position? Do you have two rooftop A/C units? if you do, do they both work? What I am attempting to determine is if one of the 50 amp circuits from the pedestal is not powering one side of your breaker panel. If this is in fact the case, then all outlets wired to one side of your breaker panel would not work. The reason I ask about roof top A/C units is that typically one unit is wired to one side of the breaker panel and the second A/C unit to the other side of the breaker panel. If one A/C unit works and one does not, that is a strong indicator of a power feed issue to your breaker panel.


I do have a 50 amp. I do have two roof top A/C units. Both of them work fine.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:36 PM   #45
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If it was a 50amp problem you would have more than one circuit out. You have a bad connection at some point. At a junction box or an outlet. Stand at your breaker box and think dasiy chained. Start at the closest non working outlet and remove it. See if you have power in and power out. If no power in, go in that direction and remove the closest outlet. and so on. other than that without being there I'm out of sugjestions.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:40 PM   #46
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The unit you have pictured in post #38 is not an INverter, it is a CONverter.

A INverter takes 12vdc power from your batteries and inverts it to 120vac to power a residential refrigerator and usually one 120vac outlet.

A CONverter takes 120vac from the shore (pedistal) power and converts it to 12vdc to charge your batteries and power 12vdc accessories such as lights, awnings, furnace fan, vent fans, and a 2-way or 3-way refrigerator.



Your right. It is a converter. I knew that and allowed myself to be convinced it was a inverter when I google inverters and that very same model came up in my search. I didnít read it carefully enough to see this converter is not the same thing as the question I was being asked. I do not have an inverter.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:47 PM   #47
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If it was a 50amp problem you would have more than one circuit out. You have a bad connection at some point. At a junction box or an outlet. Stand at your breaker box and think dasiy chained. Start at the closest non working outlet and remove it. See if you have power in and power out. If no power in, go in that direction and remove the closest outlet. and so on. other than that without being there I'm out of sugjestions.


Thatís a suggestion and Iíll try this later. However before I begin to pull all the outlets out of the wall. I have 16 outlets, maybe more. Only four of them do not work. They are not in a spatial order.
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Old 01-12-2019, 07:35 PM   #48
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You have a bad connection at some point. At a junction box or an outlet. Stand at your breaker box and think dasiy chained. Start at the closest non working outlet and remove it. See if you have power in and power out. If no power in, go in that direction and remove the closest outlet. and so on. other than that without being there I'm out of sugjestions.
I agree with Cavie's suggestion. Pull the oulets and check for power. Once there is a break all outlets downstream are dead.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:33 PM   #49
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cavie, I'm not sure how you can say that (and, yes, I've considered that I think I know what that sentence says, but maybe I don't). I've seen a single (meaning only one) circuit out in a 50a unit -- both 50a legs were hot but one circuit breaker or connection in an outlet box was bad. He says both A/C units run so we assume both legs are hot... so only one circuit could be out.
I ment that if one 50 amp was out, 4 -15 amp circuits would be out. 1/2 of the panel would be dead.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:40 PM   #50
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I ment that if one 50 amp was out, 4 -15 amp circuits would be out. 1/2 of the panel would be dead.
I got a little schoolin' behind the scenes and hoped I deleted my post before you quoted it. I knew the OP said both his A/Cs were running so I discounted a problem in the 50a input. My MAIN problem with your opening IF clause was -- I still had the thread title in my head "No power at outlets and outlet to refrigerator" and didn't remember the problem being narrowed down to only one circuit.
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