No power at outlets and outlet to refrigerator

[cavie]

Sometimes Bubbles comes up with some good ideas!!! LOL

[mikel68]

I don't know if you found out your problem. We have a Georgetown. Outside, in ours, in one of the under storage doors - in ours it's a door under our fridge. There's a plug, maybe a gfi, I can't remember, Hell honestly I'm not even sure what kind of switch is was, but something was tripped beneath it. I'd take a picture but or MH is at our ranch in the barn. I could be a transfer switch.

It may look like this. I remember this happening to us a while back and I had to "Google" it.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...dge-72200.html

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by bubbles

My post was to get away from a GFCI issue. It is true that if I open the REC breaker in my GT 378 I lose power to your issue receptacles but also lose TV power and I'm sure everything else plugged in that doesn't have a dedicated breaker or plugged into a GFCI protected receptacle. I don't know where the split (j box) for the issue receptacles is located but it does appear that the issue is not a breaker. Good hunting.

Bubbles, I discovered a fifth outlet not working. Yes, you are correct. When you trip the receptacle breaker, the tv is connected to that daisy chain of outlets. There are two outlets in the tv cabinet. One outlet for the tv and the other for the fake fireplace. I didn’t notice the kids moved the tv plug to the fireplace outlet with a three way plug.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by sdfarmer

I'm gonna jump in here and offer 50 years as a master electrician. Go buy a voltage detector. It is about the size of a large pen, has an LED indicator and usually makes a beeping sound when near a live voltage source. Take off the breaker panel cover and check each wire coming off a breaker. And check the incoming wires feeding the breaker panel. This sounds like a bad breaker. Also, check the neutral bus wires for tight connections. No neutral, no voltage. Good luck!

Breaker panel has been check. It’s been suggested to check it, wires, screws, hot, neutral ground. All good. Panel is not the issue. There’s a open circuit somewhere that runs behind walls, floors or cabinets. Areas like the picture where you loose track which yellow wire is what and where does it go.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by mikel68

I don't know if you found out your problem. We have a Georgetown. Outside, in ours, in one of the under storage doors - in ours it's a door under our fridge. There's a plug, maybe a gfi, I can't remember, Hell honestly I'm not even sure what kind of switch is was, but something was tripped beneath it. I'd take a picture but or MH is at our ranch in the barn. I could be a transfer switch.

It may look like this. I remember this happening to us a while back and I had to "Google" it.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...dge-72200.html

I’ve looked under the refrigerator. Here’s a picture. There’s only a furnace, D/C switches, Battery Disconnect switch and the CO2 sensor. Also the yellow A/C wiring the runs outside to two plugs. The lower storage compartment GFCI outlet and the other go in the refrigerator outlet and back out.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Under the right slide there is a panel that when removed (via screws) allows access to a junction area. It might be the production junction for power distribution of the non GFCI receptacles. Put the right slide out and look underneath it and you should see a couple grey tubes routing power to the slide receptacles. You should also see where and how the tubes disappear toward the center of the coach and you will see how to gain access to the wiring harness origination routed through the tubes. Just thinking.

Already two steps ahead. Just slow to reply trying to figure this out. So...from the tv cabinet the two outlets (one working and the other not) wiring from the good outlet routes to the j-box in the cabinet and exits the box to the conduit in the slide down to lower storage compartment like you explained. The non-working outlet for the tv goes to the outlet next to the fireplace and back out of it, to the j-box in the cabinet and then down to the conduit in the slide to the compartment. These two working and non-working wires go thru the conduit to the J-box in the lower compartment and then back of out the J-box to a rubber conduit to the other side of the MH. They never cross best of my knowledge.

[hartc883]

I loose track of them from there. I know they run along the top of the lower compartments on the driver’s side. They ( two yellow wires in rubber conduit) disappear what I presume go up and over the wheel well and out into the waste dump compartment. But four yellow wires appear there and cross up and over out of sight. I would guess the working wire is going back to the circuit breaker labeled fireplace. The non-working one is going to the microwave, which works. Bubbles, can you open your labeled microwave circuit breaker and see if the tv is daisy of that chain?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by hartc883

I loose track of them from there. I know they run along the top of the lower compartments on the driver’s side. They ( two yellow wires in rubber conduit) disappear what I presume go up and over the wheel well and out into the waste dump compartment. But four yellow wires appear there and cross up and over out of sight. I would guess the working wire is going back to the circuit breaker labeled fireplace. The non-working one is going to the microwave, which works. Bubbles, can you open your labeled microwave circuit breaker and see if the tv is daisy of that chain?

You may be reduced to tugging on the working or non-working Romex while someone watches to see which one is moving at the next junction box, just to trace this back. Or extend your continuity tester/ohmmeter, kill all AC power, and test all the whites and blacks from end to end.

Larry

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by hartc883

Already two steps ahead. Just slow to reply trying to figure this out. So...from the tv cabinet the two outlets (one working and the other not) wiring from the good outlet routes to the j-box in the cabinet and exits the box to the conduit in the slide down to lower storage compartment like you explained. The non-working outlet for the tv goes to the outlet next to the fireplace and back out of it, to the j-box in the cabinet and then down to the conduit in the slide to the compartment. These two working and non-working wires go thru the conduit to the J-box in the lower compartment and then back of out the J-box to a rubber conduit to the other side of the MH. They never cross best of my knowledge. Attachment 194560

There are receptacles in the left slide out (do you have the air mattress sleeper sofa with the electric pump?) and also the receptacle in the co-pilot overhead.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

You may be reduced to tugging on the working or non-working Romex while someone watches to see which one is moving at the next junction box, just to trace this back. Or extend your continuity tester/ohmmeter, kill all AC power, and test all the whites and blacks from end to end.



Larry

I’ve thought of that. However I haven’t tried that because the length of the conduit is about twenty feet thru bulkheads. The conduit stops at a bulkhead and I’m not even sure until I tug and pull that the four wire (actually six) are the same ones coming from the conduit. First photo is the conduit before it disappears. Second photo is the next compartment over from the compartment with the conduit. Third photo is another shot of the six wires and where they shoot off too. Those six are more likely the wires coming out of the CB panel, to the microwave, GFCI outlets.

[hartc883]

Originally Posted by bubbles

There are receptacles in the left slide out (do you have the air mattress sleeper sofa with the electric pump?) and also the receptacle in the co-pilot overhead.

I don’t have a air mattress sleeper. No outlets on the left slide compartments. Temperatures are freezing now and I can’t get the compartment doors to unlock to do anything further outside tonight. My left slide has two outlets, one for the microwave (own CB) and one GFCI outlet presumably daisy to the other GFCI outlets. I drawn out a visual aid to map out the spaghetti electrical system in the MH. It is not complete, because I can’t see where every wire routes. My next focal point is the bedroom tv which works and feeds off the REC CB. If I can figure out where it goes from there, we maybe on to something.

[bubbles]

The only other place I can think of for a common distribution point is behind the circuit breaker panel. With all power off I believe it's just a few screws holding it in place. I'm trying to think in terms of production and routing wires from all over and what would make sense but with our MH it's a crap shoot without any documentation.

[hartc883]

Update. I’ve isolated an open circuit somewhere down stream of the bedroom tv outlet. The bedroom tv outlet has always been working throughout this ordeal. It is powered via REC CB, which from there goes to the tv outlet, then out of it, down to the J-box at the most rear point of the MH, behind the bottom closet drawer. From there it goes out of the J-box, traveling forward through the bathroom, to the backside of the refrigerator’s outlet, then back through the bathroom to an unknown location. There is a whole mess of wires coming and going from that J-box. The outlets under the bed must be supplied from that mess of wires, because the wiggling brought them back on line. I can not see how they route to the bed. The bed outlets and refrigerator outlet are now working, with the help of using the clamp meter’s non-contact voltage detector. I found one of four wires not showing a voltage. While trying to follow them and trying to separate them to follow then no signal wire. The wiggling must have closed the circuit and fixed the three outlets . The wire nuts seem to be tight at the j-box. That remaining living room tv outlet and fireplace are not working.

[bubbles]

Glad you are making progress and have noted your circuit layout for reference. It is a big change from only 3 items not powered to only 1 item powered. Perhaps a lot of time may have been saved if you would have known that from the start. Who knows. Sometimes there doesn't seem to be any logic to the electrical installs on these units.

[jamesrnewton]

As I posted earlier, the junction box is where I had my problem. Don't just wiggle the wires. A wire nut can seem tight but one of the wires is not properly caught by the wire nut. Remove each wire nut one at a time and reinstall making sure to properly catch all wires. A pain but needs to be done.

[hartc883]

Final update: Went back over my earlier work in the lower storage compartment directly under the living room tv cabinet. There in that j-box a wire nut was not keeping the circuit closed. I redid each nut and now power is restored to all the outlets. thank you everyone for your help. After refilling the propane and switching the refrigerator over to the newly restore electric power provided by that outlet. The cold temperatures ruptured the refrigerator ice/drinking water valves. Seems I can’t catch a break. Fix one thing, another emerges. I’m going to guess the propane burner not running the refrigerator and the vent being left off to screw down the outlet, prevented it from freezing. It’s been much colder than today. I’ll have to come up with a solution to preventing it from freezing.

[primo20]

wow too bad about the frozen line.

but im glad you resolved your issue! and it was a fix that someone suggested! what a great thread!