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Old 03-13-2013, 05:32 PM   #1
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Onan generator starting problem-HELP please.

We have a 2010 Georgetown 378TS….with Onan 5500 generator.

Today I changed the oil filter, air filter and added 2 qt. 15w-40 oil. Motorhome has a full tank of fuel.

I started the generator. It ran for approx. 8 seconds, then it shut down. Did this several more times without any continuous runtime. I got “2 blinks” each time.

Troubleshooting guide says this is “high/low oil pressure”.

I drained oil down to the “almost” add point on the dip stick, then I tried to restart again. Same results.

I then turned both breakers off to make sure there was no “load draw” and tried to restart.

Still the same result. I’m out of ideas.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Pete
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:44 PM   #2
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is it cold where you are? it could be the oil is cold and 15 40 is thick when cold. I would try warming unit up a little. and try starting a few times. the other thing is if u can take off oil filter to see if it has oil in it. get me model and spec and I will pull out a svc manual and see what else
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gartonhl
We have a 2010 Georgetown 378TS….with Onan 5500 generator.

Today I changed the oil filter, air filter and added 2 qt. 15w-40 oil. Motorhome has a full tank of fuel.

I started the generator. It ran for approx. 8 seconds, then it shut down. Did this several more times without any continuous runtime. I got “2 blinks” each time.

Troubleshooting guide says this is “high/low oil pressure”.

I drained oil down to the “almost” add point on the dip stick, then I tried to restart again. Same results.

I then turned both breakers off to make sure there was no “load draw” and tried to restart.

Still the same result. I’m out of ideas.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Pete
Pete it sounds like stale fuel, I've had it also. How long has it been between starts?. I solved mine by light doses of of starter fuel. If you try existing old gas alone, you may ruin starter or batteries or both. You must burn all old fuel back to the tank pickup. ( maybe 3-5 minutes of run time). IMO its too late for tank additives, rebuild carb is kinda overkill. The lights only mean you haven't built oil pressure, you won't get OP till it starts. Do not overcrank I think book says maybe 10 sec. attemps with plenty of rest, use engine side control.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:46 PM   #4
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mshell56118:
It is 60-70 degree range. We’re in North Texas. I will drain oil and drop oil filter tomorrow to see if oil is present in filter. Generator is an Onan HGJAB 1038-D.

VinceU:
We’re fulltimers. Generator was, and has been, running prior to me changing the oil today. Fuel is fresh….filled tank about month ago. V-10 runs fine. Took a short trip over last weekend and genny worked fine. Just a problem since I changed oil today.

Thanks to you both of your assistance.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gartonhl View Post
mshell56118:
It is 60-70 degree range. We’re in North Texas. I will drain oil and drop oil filter tomorrow to see if oil is present in filter. Generator is an Onan HGJAB 1038-D.

VinceU:
We’re fulltimers. Generator was, and has been, running prior to me changing the oil today. Fuel is fresh….filled tank about month ago. V-10 runs fine. Took a short trip over last weekend and genny worked fine. Just a problem since I changed oil today.

Thanks to you both of your assistance.
I wouldn't drain all oil just pull the filter to make sure there is oil there. if I understand it starts you release button then it run 8-10 secs then shuts down on the fault.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:45 PM   #6
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I wouldn't drain all oil just pull the filter to make sure there is oil there. if I understand it starts you release button then it run 8-10 secs then shuts down on the fault.
Your understanding is correct. OK...I'll only drop oil filter to see if it has oil. Thanks....
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:33 AM   #7
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Here is the service manual for that generator hopefully it will help you out
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HGJA(A-B-C-D-E-F) SVC MANUAL SPECA-E.pdf (7.61 MB, 261 views)
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:00 AM   #8
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if everything worked prior to service I would look to the service event. It may sound strange but many years ago I changed the oil in my car and had problems. I found that the oil filter was defective and would not allow the oil to circulate. For the small cost maybe put another one on. If that does not work you may then want to change the gas filter. Also holding the start switch in the off position will prime the generator. A lot of people do nit know this.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:24 AM   #9
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Oil vicosity depends on the temperatures anticipated. I see the newer specs call for more variety than mine from 2007. In my case I use 10W-40.
When you drained the oil originally did you run the generator to warm the oil up? If not you most likely still had oil in the generator. I can tell you for sure it takes quite a while for the oil to drain when hot. If it's cold then it would take hours and hours and drain out. I ran my generator for 20 minutes and then pulled the plug. I left the pan under it and then changed the oil in the chassis motor and refilled it. Topped off the windshield wiper fluid and washed the windows. There was still a steady skinny stream of oil draining from the generator. I allowed about 2-1/2 -3 hours. You might just have too much oil in the generator.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gartonhl
mshell56118:
It is 60-70 degree range. We’re in North Texas. I will drain oil and drop oil filter tomorrow to see if oil is present in filter. Generator is an Onan HGJAB 1038-D.

VinceU:
We’re fulltimers. Generator was, and has been, running prior to me changing the oil today. Fuel is fresh….filled tank about month ago. V-10 runs fine. Took a short trip over last weekend and genny worked fine. Just a problem since I changed oil today.

Thanks to you both of your assistance.
A couple of other ideas, cummins very old fashioned with lube oil, they have always stated use 30 wt. If temps predominent over freezing, also the book states error codes indicate after a fault shutdown, not after a failed start. I like you now can rule out fuel, not because the big guy will run, becaue the Onan has run. Ford engine much less susceptible to stale gas.
One more test you can try- IGN spark test. If you borrow a "Timing light", you can hook to a plug wire and insue you have ignition at the plugs. This second common source of failure bad electronics. Other way ti check, hold one pluf clese in dim light.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:06 AM   #11
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it starts runs 10 secs then shuts down that is the time delay for safety on which means the control waits ten secs before lookingat inputs from safeties. I would suspect a oil pressure switch. If possible check it out with a meter with the unit not running it should be closed then start the unit and see if it changes to an open. you put one meter lead on engine block the other on the switch terminal set meter for resistance not running should be close to zero once running reading should be very high. if that seems ok then i would get a mechanical gauge and check oil pressure if you determine it to be ok then try removing wire from switch and see if unit runs but watch gauge for oil pressure if it still shuts down then you more than likely have a wiring or control issue #3 in file is oil switch part number 187-6265
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:23 AM   #12
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Just thought about this. How much gas is in your tank? The generator will shut down if you're under a quarter tank of gasoline. It might start for a brief couple seconds but then just shuts down.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:43 AM   #13
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Just thought about this. How much gas is in your tank? The generator will shut down if you're under a quarter tank of gasoline. It might start for a brief couple seconds but then just shuts down.
should of thought about that. falls under KISS THEORY. ( keep it simple stupid) and if it stumbles due to fuel more than likely you will get a fc2 oil pressure fault
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:48 PM   #14
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Is your Onan EFI or a caburator version? I have an '02 Georgetown with a 5.5 HJAB and I'm having a very similar problem. I found the service manual on line and I'm still trying things.

Mine has the look of a deliberate shut-down by the electronic controller. I'm getting fault code 32 (blink-blink-blink-pause-blink-blink), which the book says is a "failure to achieve sufficient cranking speed". Since it fires up and runs a couple of seconds, then shuts down, with smoke out of the exhaust pipe, I'm very sceptical that cranking speed is the issue.

On the carb models, there's a solenoid device in the base of the carb that closes off the main jet. This is supposed to stop the "dieseling" that used to plague some cars in the early emission equipment days. I though that might be the problem, but even with 12V hard wired to it (not through the "brain") it still has the problem.

One problem I did find was that the Onan fuel pump (mounted beneath the base plate on the forward edge) was intermittent. We got a new one and installed it, but the problem remains. I'm waiting for drier weather before I go outside for more investigations (it would be nice a bit warmer, too!).
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:09 PM   #15
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Go to a web site smokestack.com I was having a similar problem with my generac Guardian, it ended up being the control board. Just post the make model the problem and someone should help hopefully bassplayer he is very knowledgeable. You might also want to download a troubleshooting manual. Good luck
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F and E Damp View Post
Is your Onan EFI or a caburator version? I have an '02 Georgetown with a 5.5 HJAB and I'm having a very similar problem. I found the service manual on line and I'm still trying things.

Mine has the look of a deliberate shut-down by the electronic controller. I'm getting fault code 32 (blink-blink-blink-pause-blink-blink), which the book says is a "failure to achieve sufficient cranking speed". Since it fires up and runs a couple of seconds, then shuts down, with smoke out of the exhaust pipe, I'm very sceptical that cranking speed is the issue.

On the carb models, there's a solenoid device in the base of the carb that closes off the main jet. This is supposed to stop the "dieseling" that used to plague some cars in the early emission equipment days. I though that might be the problem, but even with 12V hard wired to it (not through the "brain") it still has the problem.

One problem I did find was that the Onan fuel pump (mounted beneath the base plate on the forward edge) was intermittent. We got a new one and installed it, but the problem remains. I'm waiting for drier weather before I go outside for more investigations (it would be nice a bit warmer, too!).
Manual attached in earlier post
As to cranking speed check the brushes
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:39 PM   #17
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Manual attached in earlier post
As to cranking speed check the brushes

And the charge level of the house batteries. Been there, done that.
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