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Old 08-07-2010, 11:11 PM   #1
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Question about the Propane Solenoid Valve

Is anyone familiar with the propane solenoid valve that is located on the gas line just after the regulator. This valve is also connected to the SafeTAlert70-742R CO & Propane Alarm inside the motorhome. My valve is extremely hot all the time, seems like it should not be that way. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-07-2010, 11:14 PM   #2
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I have never really felt mine. I thought they were double acting solenoids by which I mean they do not require a constant 12V to keep them open or closed just the application of +12v to change the state they are in, ie. open to closed or closed to open. I could be wrong. You might contact a local RV repair shop and ask.
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:42 AM   #3
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Just checked mine and it's not hot. Sounds like it's still receiving 12 volts constantly. Try turning off the detector inside. This should close the valve, see if it closes and let it cool off. I'd give it an hour or two and then turn the detector back on and see if the valve opens again. Later see if it's hot again. Unless FR changed manufacturers of the valve and it operates different than ours, you may have a problem.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:36 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info. I plan to call SafeTAlert tomorrow, but will try turning of the dector tonight for a while. I did not think it should be hot. Since it is, it would seem the dector inside is sending constant 12V to the unit and should not be. That could mean the dector or/and the solenoid are bad. Hows my thinking on that?
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:40 AM   #5
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New info on the propane solenoid valve. Its needs a constant 12v to keep it open and should run a temp of approx 140 to 160 dgr. according to Safe-T-Alern Systems is maker. If you disconnect the dector, it will shut off your propane, as it does when it goes into alarm. Since we have been having a problem with the dector, I have a new thread for discussion on the dector itself.
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:54 AM   #6
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Thanks for the update on that, I never was totally sure how they worked. Now I see one more parasitic drain on the batteries. I don't like the idea of having to have +12v continuous to keep the solenoid open.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:13 AM   #7
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Thanks for the information. When we store our motor home or not use it for extended periods of time, we turn off the batteries and prophane switch. I knew it had to take up some of the battery juice. And besides it shuts off the prophane to the rig. I forgot to turn it on one time and found that nothing worked in the rig. Friends of ours told me to turn on the prophane switch and it would open the silinoid. Reguardless of manufacture, they are all set up that way.
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:29 PM   #8
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Learn something everyday. Thanks for the info. Now I wonder why mines cool and the solenoid has the valve open??
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:38 PM   #9
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Out of curiousity, I checked mine today. My voltage meter says 1.6 volts on the solenoid terminal with detector on and zero with it turned off. The solenoid is stamped 9 volt if I am reading it correctly. So has anybody actually checked their voltage at the solenoid? My furnace does not want to light properly and my fridge does not cool all that great on LP so I have been thinking I had a problem somewhere. My stove top burners will light and look normal.
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Old 08-21-2010, 03:12 PM   #10
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I kept googling this subject and found out a little more about it. On another forum an RV tech says that these solenoid valves are indeed 9 volt. The detector will send a full 12 volt spike to open the valve completely and then immediately drops the voltage to 1.5 volts to maintain the valve in the open position. So it would appear mine is functioning properly, voltage-wise that is. It seems as though betndav's problem of a hot solenoid valve could mean that the detector is maintaining the initial 12 volts.
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