Question about the Propane Solenoid Valve

[betndavrv2]

Is anyone familiar with the propane solenoid valve that is located on the gas line just after the regulator. This valve is also connected to the SafeTAlert70-742R CO & Propane Alarm inside the motorhome. My valve is extremely hot all the time, seems like it should not be that way. Any thoughts?

[NWJeeper]

I have never really felt mine. I thought they were double acting solenoids by which I mean they do not require a constant 12V to keep them open or closed just the application of +12v to change the state they are in, ie. open to closed or closed to open. I could be wrong. You might contact a local RV repair shop and ask.

[cfsoistman]

Just checked mine and it's not hot. Sounds like it's still receiving 12 volts constantly. Try turning off the detector inside. This should close the valve, see if it closes and let it cool off. I'd give it an hour or two and then turn the detector back on and see if the valve opens again. Later see if it's hot again. Unless FR changed manufacturers of the valve and it operates different than ours, you may have a problem.

[betndavrv2]

Thanks for the info. I plan to call SafeTAlert tomorrow, but will try turning of the dector tonight for a while. I did not think it should be hot. Since it is, it would seem the dector inside is sending constant 12V to the unit and should not be. That could mean the dector or/and the solenoid are bad. Hows my thinking on that?

[betndavrv2]

New info on the propane solenoid valve. Its needs a constant 12v to keep it open and should run a temp of approx 140 to 160 dgr. according to Safe-T-Alern Systems is maker. If you disconnect the dector, it will shut off your propane, as it does when it goes into alarm. Since we have been having a problem with the dector, I have a new thread for discussion on the dector itself.

[NWJeeper]

Thanks for the update on that, I never was totally sure how they worked. Now I see one more parasitic drain on the batteries. I don't like the idea of having to have +12v continuous to keep the solenoid open.

[kvtaylor]

Thanks for the information. When we store our motor home or not use it for extended periods of time, we turn off the batteries and prophane switch. I knew it had to take up some of the battery juice. And besides it shuts off the prophane to the rig. I forgot to turn it on one time and found that nothing worked in the rig. Friends of ours told me to turn on the prophane switch and it would open the silinoid. Reguardless of manufacture, they are all set up that way.

[cfsoistman]

Learn something everyday. Thanks for the info. Now I wonder why mines cool and the solenoid has the valve open??

[jd-ford-hd]

Out of curiousity, I checked mine today. My voltage meter says 1.6 volts on the solenoid terminal with detector on and zero with it turned off. The solenoid is stamped 9 volt if I am reading it correctly. So has anybody actually checked their voltage at the solenoid? My furnace does not want to light properly and my fridge does not cool all that great on LP so I have been thinking I had a problem somewhere. My stove top burners will light and look normal.

[jd-ford-hd]

I kept googling this subject and found out a little more about it. On another forum an RV tech says that these solenoid valves are indeed 9 volt. The detector will send a full 12 volt spike to open the valve completely and then immediately drops the voltage to 1.5 volts to maintain the valve in the open position. So it would appear mine is functioning properly, voltage-wise that is. It seems as though betndav's problem of a hot solenoid valve could mean that the detector is maintaining the initial 12 volts.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by jd-ford-hd

I kept googling this subject and found out a little more about it. On another forum an RV tech says that these solenoid valves are indeed 9 volt. The detector will send a full 12 volt spike to open the valve completely and then immediately drops the voltage to 1.5 volts to maintain the valve in the open position. So it would appear mine is functioning properly, voltage-wise that is. It seems as though betndav's problem of a hot solenoid valve could mean that the detector is maintaining the initial 12 volts.

I will see if I can verify but this sounds more reasonable in the operation of the valve and detector. This way you can not over ride the vlave unless you have 2 power sources. Interesting.
I'm still trying to locate my gas valve shutoff selonoid on my trailer.

[NWJeeper]

Originally Posted by jd-ford-hd

I kept googling this subject and found out a little more about it. On another forum an RV tech says that these solenoid valves are indeed 9 volt. The detector will send a full 12 volt spike to open the valve completely and then immediately drops the voltage to 1.5 volts to maintain the valve in the open position. So it would appear mine is functioning properly, voltage-wise that is. It seems as though betndav's problem of a hot solenoid valve could mean that the detector is maintaining the initial 12 volts.

This would sure be easy to verify with a multimeter.

[Iggy]

I just tried to call MTI Industries who makes the Safe T Alert Propane detector Model 30-442 (Brown).
They are closed.

If you want to call next week they ar ein Volo IL 1-800-383-0269
Not much on their website.
MTI Industries, Inc. Safe T Alert and Marine Technologies

[RollingBlunder]

Guys I know this thread is very old but Thought I could contribute something since I just had exp with with this.

The MH in question is a georgetown 1998 m303
Originally this came with a CCI controls 7719 LPG leak detector with remote solenoid.

The Solenoid is a Parker nm22-0611

It's listed as 9V / 6.8watt

My understanding is as was earlier described that the solenoid opens at a higher voltage, either 9 or 12
but then requires less to hold open.. Im not sure the hold open value.

Mine was original, which made it about 16 years old.
It's unknown if it still detects anything, but we thought it was due for a change.

The problem is (for me at least) CCI controls is no longer in business.
So you can not get direct replacements.

Another problem with the CCI was the way it was wired.
It has 2 power sources, + ground.

To me it was confusing, It had a lead going to each of the batteries, chasis and house.. the manual calms it will use the higher of the two voltage but that did not seem to be the case for us, It was draining the chassis battery within a few days if left on, eventually the leak detector would stop, we would have to battery boost to jump start the RV.

We took to shutting the leak detector off (It had a on/off switch built in) when not using gas, which helped.

Im not sure if the original could shut off the gas or not, I suspect not because the only wire going to the solenoid was the ground.. basically the leak detector and solenoid was in series.

Anyway looking for replacements I had read repeatedly that the safe-t-alert "kits" with solenoid control was replacements.
We found a brown one which matches the paneling it sits in better then the white anyway for about 180 bucks.
The safe-t-alert's also have a CO detector so that's nice.

So 2 days ago I went to install it.. first off who ever says they're a direct replacement is lying.

First off the hole is to small for the new units, yes they are the same width but are about a inch taller.

That wasn't too difficult.
Next up is the wiring... first of all the new unit has 4 wires, not 3.
The new units only need 1 power source, so that's good, I already decided we was gonna hook it up exclusively to house batteries this time around.

The old wiring had a 3amp inline blade fuse on the chasis line, no fuse on the house line, and of course the ground which goes to and thru the solenoid.

the new unit has 1 pos, 1 neg, and 2 white, which seems to be 12v pass thru relay for the solenoid.. see the problem already?
the new unit sends 12V thru to the solenoid.. where as the old one was on the negative end.

Another thing is the new units do not have a switch to turn them off.
and they need a 5amp fuse, not a 3amp.

So I went to radio shack, got a 10amp panel mount fuse holder, and a panel mount 12volt led lighted push button switch.

I then jumped the ground wire off the stairs switch to get my ground.

one of the white wires goes to the 12v house line so I just ran it right with the 12+ for the leak detector, I put in terminals in the whole thing to make it easy to service later.

Then I ran the other white wire (relay) to the solenoid.

Oh the original wiring was Red (Chassis) 12v+, Orange (House) 12v+, and Yellow (Negative) Solenoid.

I capped the Red chassis since it's unused.

I then ran the other white wire (solenoid relay output) to the switch.


So the new system works like this. Leak detector is always on, However I can yank the panel mount fuse if I need to, it's wired to house batteries now so no more Chassis battery drain.

The solenoid is interrupted by a switch so I can turn the gas on and off from inside, main service valve stays open all the time as before with the solenoid controlling flow.

Now the solenoid is different then the old one, Old one is 9v this one clearly says 12v, Way I figure it the leak detector must just operate a simple relay inside and lets 12v pass thru steady.

I can get the model# off the solenoid if anyone is interested but I believe it says max fluid temp at something like 170F.

it also has a warning operates HOT.

and yes it does.. very hot actually to hot to wanna touch.
I do not know if the old one ever got hot but I suspect not.

I would also imagine it's a hell of a drain, heat comes from somewhere.

But we turn off the gas when we're not using it.. so for those who have hot running solenoids you might think about putting a switch on it, it's also nice being able to turn the gas on and off from inside.

Those safe-t-alert detectors are not a direct replacement for the old CCI's
The only thing I did not have to redo when replacing mine was the remote line to the solenoid thankfully.

Oh ya one more thing, old solenoid ran 3/8's line.. so coming off the regulator you had a 3/8 nipple -> solenoid -> hose

the new solenoid was 1/4.. so I had to convert it twice which just adds more opportunity for a leak.

I ended up going 3/8-1/4 bushing -> 1/4 nipple -> solenoid -> 1/4 nipple -> 1/4-3/8 coupler -> hose


I hope this helps someone.

[speedjester]

Helped me... Thanks for posting..

[ramair]

I was told its a safety feature so if the alarm goes off it suts off the supply of propane to the motorhome. This I know for fact. My alarm was intermittent and found that my house batteries were low on water. I added distilled water and all seams to be good so far. I was told my a propane guy that you could remove the valve and zip tie the valve up. Then you do not have the safety installed. If you install the switch then you are doing the same thing as removing the valve. Also you co2 sensor should be replaced every 60 months.

[Reyco50]

Hello, I noticed this thread as I just learned this morning after smelling gas that my Regulator was leaking and was checking the forum. As I inspected that area propane tank, I notice the solenoid valve near the regulator was running "hot" all the time. In reading this thread, is it my understanding that the energized(constant 12v) solenoid is normal??? Just wanted to ask what the latest was and if in fact this is not an issue? Although I agree with many it's just another hidden battery drain that I keep finding. Any feedback would be appreciated....jerry

[wvphil]

Mine is hot also. I'm assuming it is a heater? Not sure but mine has been extremely warm for two years and no explosion as of yet.

[Iggy]

No the solenoid is a 12 volt DC powered valve that stays open as long as you have the Propane detector has power and is not in alarm.
It stays warm and even hot sometimes. This is one of the main reasons to disconnect battery power when storing your rigs.

This is why I have a spare solenoid just in case the coil fails.

[RollingBlunder]

Originally Posted by Reyco50

Hello, I noticed this thread as I just learned this morning after smelling gas that my Regulator was leaking and was checking the forum. As I inspected that area propane tank, I notice the solenoid valve near the regulator was running "hot" all the time. In reading this thread, is it my understanding that the energized(constant 12v) solenoid is normal??? Just wanted to ask what the latest was and if in fact this is not an issue? Although I agree with many it's just another hidden battery drain that I keep finding. Any feedback would be appreciated....jerry

Ya the one I replaced runs hot too and runs at a constant 12v
Apparently it's normal if not a bit alarming.

Our original detector was wired to the chassis battery which was killing it.
When I replace it what I did was goto radio shack get a lighted 12v push button switch and wire the solenoid to it.

This way the solenoid can be turned off from inside without affecting the detector (yours might already have a switch)

when you leave the rv sit for a while it's a good idea to turn the main DC power off.. generally a red lever (key) by the door that can be removed.

flip that to off when it's sitting will disconnect the house batteries.
Your chassis battery (engine starter) is still connected however and things like the radio can be a slow drain, if you have a chassis battery disconnect also flip that off, or you can put one in.

they'll help minimize discharge.. the batteries will self discharge if sitting long enough even if not connected to anything.

I always laugh at the walking dead when they find a car that starts right up after sitting for years, most batteries will be to dead to crank a starter within about 6 weeks.